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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So months ago I added the RICCOR valves to my 05' 650s - its was a major improvement only I am confident now that I messed it up.

When I put everything back together there was no mention in the instructions that I should CUT the spacers at the top of the springs.... so yes- I struggled but with all my force I managed to close them back up and screw the caps back on.

It was a ridiculous effort- and I should have realized it wasn't right at the time but was eager and stubborn to get riding with the suspension fixed up.

Now I am dealing with a knocking/dribbling effect in the forks - I think one (if not both) of the springs is buckling and slapping the insides of the forks... This weekend I plan on putting in new .85 sonic springs and new seals (been seeing some oily residue on the one fork)

Any recommendations on how to best get the caps off with out damaging the threads or my face :/ - I am sure they are under a tremendous amount of pressure, and that last turn or two may be really bad for the threads...



To get them together I used a vice and pressed my body+a towel against the whole cap while turning with a wrench... is that reasonable way to go back off?

Also- any input on how much I should cut the spacers down? like 1" perhaps?
 

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Also- any input on how much I should cut the spacers down? like 1" perhaps?
You really need to measure and calculate internal preload. You said you're putting sonic springs in too. There is a good writeup on their website that covers how to do it.
 

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...To get them together I used a vice and pressed my body+a towel against the whole cap while turning with a wrench... is that reasonable way to go back off?
Probably your only practical choice. Back off the preload adjusters all the way.

Also- any input on how much I should cut the spacers down? like 1" perhaps?
Follow the instructions that come with the Sonic Springs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Keep the fork in the triple while you crack the cap. For the last few threads really keep pressure down on them.
Thats an interesting idea... i have a triple tree stand so I could do that (as the other guy mentioned) while its off the ground too...


Hmmmm its in a vertical position there...

BTW I used a wrench because I didn't have a socket that fit it :) I will get one this time :)
 

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Let me clarify a little more. Just use the triples as a clamp to keep the fork from spinning. Before you try to take the cap off slide the fork up and clamp down. That way you aren't pinching the threaded area.
 

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The stock springs are known to clank without any modifications. They all do that.
I added my ricors to the stock setup without chopping the spacers.
They could use the extra length (~ 1/4") anyway for my weight.

Use the lower triple pinch bolts to secure the tube.
Loosen the top triple pinch bolts so you can turn the cap easily.
Wasn't all that much extra pressure needed with the stock springs.
With appropriate springs for your weight, set the recommended spacer length.

If the seals are leaking, it's time to replace them. It's not the ricors.
For a cheap test, try cleaning them with a bit of thin plastic film swiped around between the seal and fork tube.
That may be all it needs for the time being.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The stock springs are known to clank without any modifications. They all do that.
I added my ricors to the stock setup without chopping the spacers.
They could use the extra length (~ 1/4") anyway for my weight.

Use the lower triple pinch bolts to secure the tube.
Loosen the top triple pinch bolts so you can turn the cap easily.
Wasn't all that much extra pressure needed with the stock springs.
With appropriate springs for your weight, set the recommended spacer length.

If the seals are leaking, it's time to replace them. It's not the ricors.
For a cheap test, try cleaning them with a bit of thin plastic film swiped around between the seal and fork tube.
That may be all it needs for the time being.
Thanks for this- Yeah I know the seals are bad- nothing to do with the riccors- if anything perhaps its the new fork oil seeping through old seals .. either way I got new ones.

Hopefully it wont need bushings... haha

Whats the size of those caps? 17mm? Think I used an adjustable on it haha really think a real socket would be way better.
 

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I used a 15/16 inch socket as a close enough fit. Can often do this with the larger hex sizes.

Google inch to mm converter gives 0.9375 inch ~ 23.8125 mm.
So probably 23 or 24mm. The 15/16 is a bit loose but not enough to wreck things.

Rather than using the socket alone, I used socket, extension and wrench to get it up past
the handlebars, give a reference, level and better grip to keep the cap inline with the tube.
Go lightly until the first few threads are in and/or out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I used a 15/16 inch socket as a close enough fit. Can often do this with the larger hex sizes.

Google inch to mm converter gives 0.9375 inch ~ 23.8125 mm.
So probably 23 or 24mm. The 15/16 is a bit loose but not enough to wreck things.

Rather than using the socket alone, I used socket, extension and wrench to get it up past
the handlebars, give a reference, level and better grip to keep the cap inline with the tube.
Go lightly until the first few threads are in and/or out.
Perfect thanks- Yeah i was looking at it this morning thinking its way past a 17mm haha- was guessing 22 but 24 it is :)

Gonna work on it tonight and tomorrow thanks for all the good information!

HMM was just thinking about thtat- if 15/16 is too big- then perhaps this is 23mm not 24 :)
 

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24mm deep well socket to remove the caps. Make sure you loosen the top triple clamp or you won't be able to get the cap off.

When you put the springs in the cap should be sticking up about 10mm or so if the preload stock has been cut correctly. Check with sonic springs to make sure thats the correct height though.
 
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