Suzuki SV650 Riders Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
66 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just went out on a ride today, ran fine. Came home parked in driveway, went inside took off all my gear went back out to move into garage and bike won't start. Put key in it cranked over once then everything went off. No nothing. Turned the key off then back on nothing. The gauge cluster won't turn on, fuel pump won't prime, won't crank. It is acting almost like the battery is dead. But I turned key to "parking lights" and tail lights come on and stay on bright. Also I tried cranking and neutral light would flicker but again won't crank or prime. I am thinking fuse or some sort of short. But as mechanically inclined as I consider myself, electrical stuff is my weakness. I have NEVER had one problem with this bike. The only two things I can think of are: the bike was washed yesterday. I went out for a ride today for about 2 hrs. Ran perfect, made 3 stops throughout the trip and it started fine each time. The only other thing I noticed was that the key seemed to not be working as smoothly. As I went to turn the key from the steering stem locked position I have to kind of "jiggle" it to get it to turn clockwise to the "off" position. Any ideas on where to start? I did pull the ignition fuse and it looked fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,123 Posts
Either your battery decided to say Aloha or maybe something is up with your ignition switch. You can look for power with a meter at the ignition switch coming in and going out, or at least meter the battery. Check the battery cables as well. Maybe one got loose. You can also meter the voltage at the battery while hitting the start button and see how low it drops. Determine what the battery voltage is to eliminate the battery and then check the switch. You can have a bright taillight and not have enough to power anything else. That's a low draw load on the battery.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,184 Posts
i'd suspect the battery. tail lights coming on is no test of the batt., as they are led and doesn't take much to light them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
66 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm leaning more towards the ignition switch. I replaced the battery last year. I was messing around with it a little more tonight and when I turned the key about 3/4 of the way from "off" to "on", the tail lights would come on bright and steady. But if I turned the key the remainder of the way to "on" they would turn back off. Later this week when I have more time I will break out the multimeter and check to be sure it is not the battery.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
66 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok, so I messed around with it a little more today. Checked the battery with the mutimeter and it is fine. Also checked the cables and the 30A fuse + all of the other fuses and they are all fine as well. What I did notice is when I had the multimeter connected to the battery and the ignition turned to steering "lock" position, charge was full. In "off" position charge still full. In "parking light" position still full charge. But when I turned the key from "off" to "on" charge drops to zero. Again I'm not very good with electrical stuff but this sounds like the ignition switch is the culprit, no? How would I test the actual switch to see if it is working correctly? Is there anything else that could be causing this?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
274 Posts
That's interesting to see it drop to 0.. there could be a short in one of the circuits that energized when the ignition is switched to the 'On' position. (Fuel pump, gauge cluster, etc.)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
66 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So what does this mean? Even a dead battery can read 12v with no load.
I tested in all the above scenarios, and it read 12V except when ignition turned to "on"position. I also hooked it up to battery tender. When it was in the bike with the cables attached it flashed the red light showing "incorrect/error." When I took it out of the bike and hooked it up, it immediately showed >80% charge. After less than a minute it showed "full charge." Again trying to learn from this, but if multimeter and battery tender show the battery to be fully charged how can it be toast? Also if this is the case then how do you actually test a battery's charge?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,945 Posts
... When I took it out of the bike and hooked it up, it immediately showed >80% charge. After less than a minute it showed "full charge."
What you are seeing, whitecat, is second confirmation the battery is toast.

The 80% is a reflection of the battery voltage, not true charge capacity or ability to flow current. When a battery has high internal resistance, the voltage comes up quickly even though little charge has been accepted.

The quick rise in battery voltage when on the tender is the opposite affect of the major voltage drop you are seeing when the battery is loaded by the headlight. Both are due to high internal battery resistance and happens when the battery is heavily sulfated. Sulfation occurs in lead-acid batteries when left at low charge for weeks or months.

Did this battery sit discharged over the winter? That would explain it. Otherwise you just got a bum one. If it is relatively new, you may be able to get it replaced under warranty. What brand is it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
66 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So I replaced the battery and that fixed the problem, kind of. Put in new battery and started up fine. Went through everything after I started it and noticed the left turn signals were not working. The right worked fine. So I went back through looked at the fuses again, they were all fine. I checked the switch it seemed ok. I looked at the wiring (aftermarket signals BTW) it looked ok, I couldn't see any suspect areas. I unplugged one of the left signals and the plugged in one worked fine and then switched. So I knew it wasn't the bulbs. On a whim I went through and re-did all the turn signal wiring hoping that would fix it. I cut, respliced, resoldered, heat shrunk all four signals. And it fixed the problem. I'm not sure if there was a short in one of the left signal wires? And I'm not sure if that was a complete fluke thing or if that somehow caused the battery to die? I'm just happy she's back to normal again.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top