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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can someone tell me if the standard SV 650 model vs the S model has the same foot peg and shifting position, I posted I want to trade my 07 S model for a standard model. I know the handle bars and windshield are different, was wondering about the foot peg position.

Chet
 

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Yes, other than the 03 model, they have the same position.
 

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1st gens are different too :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I did give it a thought of changing the bars ect, but does anyone have a kit , I am not sure about the throttle & clutch cable, and possible may even have to add a longer brake hose, I will be searching around to possibly do the conversion ect.

Chet
 

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when I looked into it was I was told I throttle and clutch, brake maybe.. my other worry was the electrical I was sure if there was enough length in them either.. in the end I didn't do it..
 

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Quick checklist for the conv.:

Swap upper and lower triples from an N model $100 (then sell stock S parts to recoup)
Motion Pro +4 throttle cables - $55
Longer brake lines - $90-100
Handlebar - $30 (Bikemaster.com)
Risers/clamps - $30 (outlaw racing on ebay)

Clutch cable works. Electrical works fine.

I already had brake lines so the total end cost when I did my swap was $100 after selling stock tree.

I have pics if wanted.
 

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Quick checklist for the conv.:

Swap upper and lower triples from an N model $100 (then sell stock S parts to recoup)
Motion Pro +4 throttle cables - $55
Longer brake lines - $90-100
Handlebar - $30 (Bikemaster.com)
Risers/clamps - $30 (outlaw racing on ebay)

Clutch cable works. Electrical works fine.

I already had brake lines so the total end cost when I did my swap was $100 after selling stock tree.

I have pics if wanted.
Don't forget a head light ;)

If your S model headlight and Fairings are in good shape, you could easily make money on that part of the swap. Depending on what kind of naked headlight you want to get.
 

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on 1st gen S throttle cables work fine with dirtybars if you reroute the cables
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
wonder if anyone has used the same top triple clamp on the S model and drill 2 holes for a set of standard handle bar risers, I am going to look and see if it feasible by filling the bottom area where I will drill and fill with a commercial epoxy and hopefully will not hurt the integrity of the upper clamp.

Chet

PS any riders here ever ride a BMW F800 ST curious if they are a heavier feeling bike when riding. and how would it compare for a more upright riding style compared to the 650N model
 

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wonder if anyone has used the same top triple clamp on the S model and drill 2 holes for a set of standard handle bar risers, I am going to look and see if it feasible by filling the bottom area where I will drill and fill with a commercial epoxy and hopefully will not hurt the integrity of the upper clamp.
It can be done. I think there is a write up somewhere on this site. But you'd be better off just getting a new triple that was designed for it. They can be bought in the for sale section here every now and then.
 

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wonder if anyone has used the same top triple clamp on the S model and drill 2 holes for a set of standard handle bar risers, I am going to look and see if it feasible by filling the bottom area where I will drill and fill with a commercial epoxy and hopefully will not hurt the integrity of the upper clamp.

Chet

PS any riders here ever ride a BMW F800 ST curious if they are a heavier feeling bike when riding. and how would it compare for a more upright riding style compared to the 650N model
It's been done but is not recommended. I went ahead and changed mine proper to a n setup. Changed clutch cable to n as well, rerouted the throttle cables, rizoma handle bar from pj's parts. If you change the triple, go ahead and change the bearings in there as well as it sounds that you'll be keeping the bike for a minute.
 

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Don't forget a head light ;)

If your S model headlight and Fairings are in good shape, you could easily make money on that part of the swap. Depending on what kind of naked headlight you want to get.
I kept the S fairing but added the bar, so didn't add the headlight into the list.

You need both the upper and lower from an N as the offsets are different. People have drilled and then filled in the bottom with a modified washer, I was so much more confident just using parts that came from the factory like that, so I swapped both triples and then sold my stock ones.

If you change to a bar and don't like it, Bikemaster sells like 6-7 different bars for under $30.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
thanks for the ergo link on the bikes, I was looking at the Gladius, is seems to be a bit more comfy than the N model

Chet
 

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I'm a little surprised no one has mentioned getting taller, or adjustable clip-ons. That would save you the hassle/expense of changing/drilling your top triple, etc. Here's a few threads I found using the often maligned search feature. I used the advanced search function, searching thread titles for "adjustable clip."

http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=157367

http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=132839&highlight=adjustable+clip

http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=83494&highlight=adjustable+clip
 

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I priced-out adjustable clipons versus a bar swap with the list I have above. They were both within $20 of each other, so I figured I'd get the bar as it'll allow me to change to taller bars in the future as all other lines have enough slack now.

Of course, more labor intensive, which I'm fine with. The feeling of a handlebar completely changes the feel of the bike. It has made me cross off many bikes of my "want" list, don't think I'll get another bike anytime soon with clipons. Bars, especially 29" wide like I have now, make the bike much more fun.
 
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