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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so I'm basically trying to confirm what I think I already know.

Lately my bike has been letting me sit, not all the time but once in a while. I replaced the battery as it was old, ran it for 3 days no problems and then it let me sit again.

Tested the charging system and it would charge over 12.7v so I assumed R/R as I already replaced it once and had the same problem. I just got finished putting a brand new FH008 RR in and it still isn't charging properly.

Key off battery was sitting at 13v even (it was on a charger all day)

Key on battery dropped to 12.3v , not bad

Started up and at idle battery is reading 12.6v

Rev to 4k+ it levels at 12.7v (not good)


So now I suspect the stator. Looked up how to test the stator and the AC output is low. I'm reading it should be around 75v and I am only getting 50v @ 3.5Krpm (had the choke on)

I also tested the ohms and got 1.3 between all three wires, also tested the white and green wires as I saw that was another testing point and it was 202ohms.


Is it definetly the stator? I checked all of the connections on the side of the bike, all were tight and clean. I haven't checked at the stator yet as I don't know how much is involved to get to it yet and I was getting frustrated and had to walk away.

Any help or insight would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
 

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I'm curious to see what your problem is. Can you give us the year/mileage and any mods you may have? Sounds like you have a bad connection or excessive resistance somewhere to me. Would a shorted out wire cause those symptoms?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
01 with 25,000 Only mods that would make a difference are the led taillight and turn signals but I have the proper flasher relay. All of that has been done for a year so I'm fairly sure they wouldnt be the cause.

I'm hoping it's not a wire, I do want to check the connection at the stator when I get home but other than that all the other connections are good. The 50v from the stator at the plug is what makes me think it's the stator.
 

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Test the stator connector pins to ground, individually. Use the neg. terminal of the battery and look for no continuity for each pin. You should have an open circuit to ground. Also look at the AC voltage at 5Krpm if you can. The white and green wires are from the signal generator for coil activation. Not related to the charging system. Only for firing the plugs.
 

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The 1.3 ohm readings are high (can be due to a meter offset or probe connection), but given they are all identical it is a good sign. Usually when the stator burns just one coil fails at a time and the difference in readings is obvious. Check coil isolation as RMAN suggested, and rerun the AC voltage test at 5k rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Had a chance to test this morning.

~ 80V on all three @ 5K

Tested the resistance to ground

- 1.2
- 0.9
- 1.1

So am I looking at a bad wire or ground?
 

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Can you confirm the isolation test using another meter? The AC output is fine and consistent. If all the connections are secure, your new/used MOSFET may be the issue as far as battery charging. MOSFET R/Rs can fail. They are still a shunt style.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I can borrow my dad's meter and test it.

And I did put the wrong part# for the RR. I bought a FH020AA kit from roadster cycle (which I assumed were brand new RR's) and just installed it last night hence why I was testing hoping my bike was charging again.

I'll also look up the diode test for R/R and hopefully prove it's bad before I call up the guy at roadster cycle.
 

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That's a different story. He sells new components, not used. Would be rare for a new unit not to work.
 

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Tested the resistance to ground

- 1.2
- 0.9
- 1.1

So am I looking at a bad wire or ground?
If you are showing continuity from any of the 3 stator output wires to ground (which it seems you are) then you have a bad stator.

This is how mine failed. It passed all the other tests just like you are passing, but failed the resistance to ground on one of the pins.

If you take the stator off it'll be obvious to see.
 

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I agree with champer. Those numbers show the stator is shorted to ground. Time to pull the cover and take a look.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Crap... ok thanks guys.

On a side note if anyone is looking at those kits from roadster cycles they are great kits. A little tight to fit under the rear fairing but very easy install.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ok will do. I just said crap because I already threw $200 trying to fix it when I should have just done the diagnostics in the first place. That and this weekend looks to be gorgeous and I will be bike-less. :( I guess it's time to dust off the old mountain bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well champer you were spot on. One of the coils burned up.


Thanks again everyone for the help and double thanks to you champer for the write up you did a while back. I ran across it searching at work and it saved me some time figuring out how to get the stator out.

So my next question is should I look for an issue that would cause it to burn up? I noticed a chip out of the insulator around the magneto. Would this cause any problems down the road?


If so I would prefer to replace it while I'm in the case, but I don't want to shell any more money out if I can help it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Good deal, thanks!

Edit: Ok so next question. I'm looking at a the Ricks Electronics replacement as that seems to be the only new one on ebay and the one listing has this
" NOTE: THIS DOES NOT INCLUDE GROMMET OR PICK-UP COIL,YOU MUST REUSE YOUR OLD GROMMET AND PICK-UP ..."

What parts in particular would I have to reuse? Everything looks to be one whole piece wires and all.
 

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The pickup coil or signal generator is the small separate coil unit at the top right side where the wires leave the case. The pickup coil has a metal bracket that holds it in place. The grommet is where all the wires come out of the case. Those two items you need to use with the new stator. The pickup coil has the two wires which are white and green. When installing the new gasket over the pickup coil, use some gasket sealer over the rubber first to have a tight seal. You don't need anything on the rest of the gasket, just over the rubber pickup coil surface.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/03-04-05-06-Suzuki-SV650-SV-650-S-Stator-engine-generator-pickup-coil-sensor-OEM-/320777254074
The pickup coil is at the lower right hand corner. It's small and square(black) with a metal bracket surround and you can see the green wire near it. The grommet is also visible above the coil on the larger wire lead.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
That is what I figured but how do I reuse that grommet? Do I need to cut it to get the wires out?
 

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I haven't done the swap myself, but I would imagine the wires need to be cut from the old stator to free the grommet, not cut the grommet and the new wires could be thread into the grommet hole. Or, the old wires just pulled through the grommet to release. There may be some sort of factory glue/sealer used at the grommet hole, but it should be like any other grommet where wires just are pulled through the hole.
 
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