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I installed Spiegler SS brake lines on my bike and the brake lever travel is quite long before the brakes start. I have bled the living hell out of those lines and there is no air to be found using a traditional brake bleeding tool (tube with metal fitting that allows air to travel in only one direction). I have bled repeatedly at the caliper and the MC.

I checked that there is no fluid leaking anywhere in the system and the brakes do work - albeit awfully. I have read about bungee tying the lever over night and then bleeding the following day as air bubbles should make their way to the bleed nipples (I believe mainly the MC nipple). Should I try this - can any harm happen and how hard should the bungees pull on the lever)?

Are there any other methods for getting out pesky hidden air bubbles in the system?

I have also read about cleaning the calipers and the brake pads - is it worth trying? While I am sure this could help, the fact is the brakes are spongier now than they were with stock lines so something happened as a result of the install.

Somebody else wrote to loosen the caliper mounting bolts and almost take them off but not quite and while the pads are barely touching the rotors to pull on the brake levers because "the seals for the pistons in your calipers are flexing too much instead of letting the piston slide" - any merit in doing this?

Thanks.
 

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The absolute easiest way I've found when bleeding dry lines is using a big syringe.

Now you're actually taking fluid and pushing it through the bleeder on the caliper up to the master. Do this a few times on each side and its almost guaranteed to have zero bubbles anywhere to hide. I usually bleed it a few times the regular way after, but the lever will feel completely different.

Also, I usually just bleed them manually. Pump, hold, crack bleeder, tighten, pump, repeat.
 

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Bled my old brakes swapping to ss lines on my ninja 250 (single line) and bled my sv650s when I first bought it. You don't even need a mity vac really. I just pumped pumped pumped hold ^ etc etc what pthiawala786 said. Just make sure the reservoir doesn't run empty otherwise more air will get in.
 

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using a traditional brake bleeding tool (tube with metal fitting that allows air to travel in only one direction)
There is always the possibility of your gizmo allowing air into the system. Suggest trying the old fashion way of 'open, pump, close, repeat'. Got to MOVE when you do it too. Get a fast rhythm going that moves some fluid quickly and doesn't give any bubble time to rise back up the line. Mityvac always works too.
 

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If you don't have speed bleeders you need to make sure to close the nipple before the pump gets all the way to the end. Also you may have to go through 2-3 re-fills in your reservoir before you get all the bubbles out.
 

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Sometimes if you have pesky bubbles that won't come out, taking the caliper off and moving them around to get the bubble to the bleeder helps. Just don't squeeze the pads shut without something in between them ;)
 

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The absolute easiest way I've found when bleeding dry lines is using a big syringe...Now you're actually taking fluid and pushing it through the bleeder on the caliper up to the master.
You can buy large (like 100cc) irrigation syringes (no prescription necessary) at veterinary supply stores and at some drug stores. I tried to buy some at a Walgreens in Cumming, GA last month. They didn't have them, but a local hospital supply/pharmacy did. Cost was about $5 IIRC.
 

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I got mine from my Dad, but it didn't have a needle, just the syringe. I put a small piece of clear hose on the end which fits the end of the bleeder.

Suck out fluid from master, dump it out, suck in new fluid from bottle, hook up to bleeder on caliper, open bleeder, push fluid through until it comes into the master. Do this a few times on each side and then bleed manually.

Literally, this will take you 5 mins compared to 30-60 mins the conventional way, especially when the lines started off dry.
 
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