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one not enough for you? ;D
Reliability is enough.Whether worth it in terms of cost I can't answer since I don't know the cost.

Since you guys seem to have knowledge and because i wouldn't like to open a new thread is the Spears 1mm over bore with nikasil,busa pistons+Yoshi stage 1 cams(similar gains with cam swap) reliable?
 

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Reliability is enough.Whether worth it in terms of cost I can't answer since I don't know the cost.

Since you guys seem to have knowledge and because i wouldn't like to open a new thread is the Spears 1mm over bore with nikasil,busa pistons+Yoshi stage 1 cams(similar gains with cam swap) reliable?
?????

That setup is not reliable ;)

spears 1mm overbore with busa pistons ??

Stock sv650 bore are 81mm and Busa pistons are 81mm and to fit them you need to hone the cilinders a little to fit the rings perfect.
 

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?????

That setup is not reliable ;)

spears 1mm overbore with busa pistons ??

Stock sv650 bore are 81mm and Busa pistons are 81mm and to fit them you need to hone the cilinders a little to fit the rings perfect.
I see.So I suppose that if you go spears 1mm over bore+Nikasil you have to get pistons +1mm and these pistons should be made for nikasil(at least have rings for nikasil),right?Which pistons are they?

If I keep bullshiFting feel free to give me crap! ;D
 

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any overbore with aftermarket piston will be less reliable than stock pistons, nikasil or not.
nikasil is not cheap, you have to replace sleeves and than coat it. not worth doing for street bike. overbore can work fine but it is critical to get all clearances right and set it up correctly. there are ways to increase reliability but again it cost money. getting power out of sv is not problem but carefully choosing which way to get it makes difference. aftermarket big bore pistons would be last on my list.
 

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I see.So I suppose that if you go spears 1mm over bore+Nikasil you have to get pistons +1mm and these pistons should be made for nikasil(at least have rings for nikasil),right?Which pistons are they?

If I keep bullshiFting feel free to give me crap! ;D
The 1mm overbore kit comes with these parts:




To fit them you need to machine the cilinders (not included with the kit)
 

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those are high compression J&E pistons.
That pic is direct from the spears site --> compression is 11.7 to 1.
How can you see that they are from J&E ??

662cc / 1mm Overbore Piston Kit
These are the new forging that is as light as the stock OEM stock bore pistons. This is a 1mm over kit; includes pistons, coating (see "Piston Coating" under Machining category), rings, lighter wrist pins, cir clips. The compression is 11.7 to 1.
 

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higher than stock = high compression.
I know design, I have same ones.
Spears or any other shop for that matter does not make pistons, they resell pistons.
you can order custom made pistons direct from manufacturer if you want to. I have ordered all kind in past, different compression, shape, skirt...etc. you can also send them to coating places and apply all kind coating to it.
this particular design is pretty light compared to some others from J&E or Wiseco (which is owned by J&E).
let me know if you want to see pic of this one after running it :)
 

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there are ways to increase reliability but again it cost money. getting power out of sv is not problem but carefully choosing which way to get it makes difference. aftermarket big bore pistons would be last on my list.
My bike has almost 60000miles and still runs fine.No oil consumption(about 150ml every 2000miles of rather strange driving conditions:1500miles of short runs in the city with really small speeds and the rest full throttle for big distances during some highway excursions of the island).I am really very pleased with its reliability and to tell you the truth as much as I am tempted to turn it into a project bike(unique in Greece) I won't like to risk a big BANG.I know i can't have both that's why I try to get the best of both worlds.

Check this out:
*BUSA pistons(lighter so less stress on crank)
*Carillo rods A-type:I don't need the strength of the H-type and besides A-type is 3 gramms lighter than H -type=even less stress on crank.
*I have bought drop-in Yoshi cam(not installed yet)

How about that?

(other stuff:I have installed full Yoshi TRS with titanium canister
*BMC filter.
I do NOT intend to use flatslides)
 

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r Wiseco (which is owned by J&E).
let me know if you want to see pic of this one after running it :)
I will copy-paste something I mentioned in another forum

Wiseco?Here in Greece lots of bad words and poor results when using Wiseco(not on SV, but other bikes).Engines wear out fast and occasionally break.
Results from Wiseco really terible when used with nikasil on Kawasaki MX bikes:they utterly destroy the coating.
 

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you don't need carrillo rods, there is nothing wrong with stock ones.
One of the very few(in contrast with the rest of the world) SV's that were sold in Greece owned by a fellow rider(1st generation SV) broke the rear rod.To be frank though the bike had little oil when this happened. ;D

Last time my mechanic ran a compression check he told me the bike is fine,the compression within limits but near the "limit" of the limit(hope you understand what I mean).
Not to mention the fact that it does not run properly(something really bad with carbs,lacks power,misfires all over the place)since February because it stood not running for 3 months(after I was injured from a car).The valves also can be heard(not much though).

That's why I'm thinking since I will do a general check why not try improving it?
It is the one you people say in the States "since you are there.." thing.
Besides a thorough inspection with at least a piston change to an old motor will only do good.
of course i could always follow your advice,keep the stock rods and just get new stock cylinders and busa pistons.. ;D
 
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