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Discussion Starter #1
I'm about to come up on the change interval for some new plugs. I assume a jet kit and full exhaust are not sufficient engine mods to want to change to a cooler plug. Am I right? Any insight? Summer here is also consistently 100* or so, if that has any sway in the matter.
 

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I've gone to full exhaust and jetted carbs and havent had a need for cooler plugs... I think you'd be fine with stock.
 

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I'm about to come up on the change interval for some new plugs. I assume a jet kit and full exhaust are not sufficient engine mods to want to change to a cooler plug. Am I right? Any insight? Summer here is also consistently 100* or so, if that has any sway in the matter.
How are the old plugs burning? Look at them
 

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I'm about to come up on the change interval for some new plugs. I assume a jet kit and full exhaust are not sufficient engine mods to want to change to a cooler plug. Am I right? Any insight? Summer here is also consistently 100* or so, if that has any sway in the matter.
cooler plug has nothing to do with outdoor temps
 

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You only need a colder plug if you've added at least 50hp which is highly unlikely.
 

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Here's how you "read" spark plugs:

http://www.verrill.com/moto/sellingguide/sparkplugs/plugcolorchart.htm

Normal


Combustion deposits are slight and not heavy enough to cause any detrimental effect on engine performance. Note the brown to greyish tan color, and minimal amount of electrode erosion which clearly indicates the plug is in the correct heat range and has been operating in a "healthy" engine.


Mechanical Damage


May be caused by a foreign object that has accidentally entered the combustion chamber. When this condition is discovered, check the other cylinders to prevent a recurrence, since it is possible for a small object to "travel" from one cylinder to another where a large degree of valve overlap exists. This condition may also be due to improper reach spark plugs that permit the piston to touch or collide with the firing end.


Oil Fouled



Too much oil is entering the combustion chamber. This is often caused by piston rings or cylinder walls that are badly worn. Oil may also be pulled into the chamber because of excessive clearance in the valve stem guides. If the PCV valve is plugged or inoperative it can cause a build-up of crankcase pressure which can force oil and oil vapors past the rings and valve guides into the combustion chamber.


Overheated


A clean, white insulator firing tip and/or excessive electrode erosion indicates this spark plug condition. k This is often caused by over advanced ignition, timing, poor engine cooling system efficiency (scale, stoppages, low level), a very lean air/fuel mixture, or a leaking intake manifold. When these conditions prevail, even a plug of the correct heat range will overheat.


Insulator Glazing


Glazing appears as a yellowish, varnish-like color. This condition indicates that spark plug temperatures have risen suddenly during a hard, fast acceleration period. As a result, normal combustion deposits do not have an opportunity to "fluff-off" as they normally do. Instead, they melt to form a conductive coating and misfire will occur.


Pre-Ignition


Usually one or a combination of several engine operating conditions are the prime causes of pre-ignition. It may originate from glowing combustion chamber deposits, hot spots in the combustion chamber due to poor control of engine heat, cross-firing (electrical induction between spark plug wires), or the plug heat range is too high for the engine or its operating conditions.


Gap Bridging



Rarely occurs in automotive engines, however, this condition is caused by similar conditions that produce splash fouling. Combustion deposits thrown loose may lodge between the electrodes, causing a dead short and misfire. Fluffy materials that accumulate on the side electrode may melt to bridge the gap when the engine is suddenly put under a heavy load.

Splash Fouled


Appears as "spotted" deposits on the firing tip of the insulator and often occurs after a long delayed tune-up. By-products of combustion may loosen suddenly when normal combustion temperatures are restored. During hard acceleration these materials shed from the piston crown or valve heads, and are thrown against the hot insulator surface.

Detonation


This form of abnormal combustion has fractured the insulator core nose of the plug. The explosion that occurs in this situation apples extreme pressures on internal engine components. Prime causes include ignition time advanced too far, lean air/fuel mixtures, and insufficient octane rating of the gasoline.


Ash Fouled


A build-up of combustion deposits stemming primarily from the burning of oil and/or fuel additives during normal combustion ... normally non-conductive. When heavier deposits are allowed to accumulate over a longer mileage period, they can "mask" the spark, resulting in a plug misfire condition.


Carbon Fouled


Soft, black, sooty deposits easily identify this plug condition. This is most often caused by an over-rich, air/fuel mixture. Check for a sticking choke, clogged air cleaner, or a carburetor problem - float level high, defective needle or seat, etc. This may also be attributed to weak ignition voltage, an inoperative preheating system (carburetor intake air), or extremely low cylinder compression.


Worn



This plug has served its useful life and should be replaced. The voltage required to fire the plug has approximately doubled and will continue to increase with additional miles of travel. Even higher voltage requirements, as much as 100% above normal, may occur when the engine is quickly accelerated. Poor engine performance and a loss in fuel economy are traits of a worn spark
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you for all the info. I will "read" the plugs before I go to swap them out. The bike has been purring since I got her so I imagine the plugs are fine. I'm just doing the recommended change and want to keep her running at peak performance.
 

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My plugs always look like the first picture ;D

I've never seen plugs like the ones below the top one. If your plugs look like that, it's BIG trouble!
 

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You only need a colder plug if you've added at least 50hp which is highly unlikely.
I dunno I've got some new stickers that are pushing about 11-13 bhp each so they do add up quickly if you place them properly.

:)
 
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