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Discussion Starter #1
I seem to recall that the weak part of this motor is the crank. Is it strong enough to handle ~120HP and ~150FT/Lbs of turbocharged power?

I've spoken with some of my Haybusa buddies (they also have built fast cars: one guy just wanted to make his bike faster than his car... so he had to put the "juice" on it to succeed). These guys tell me they've heard of a number of folks turbocharging the SV650.

Basically, they said I'll need an FMU (Fuel Management Unit) to increase the fuel in boost and a MSD setup for the stronger spark. We think I could get by with 5psi of boost on the cast pistons but one of the guys is giving me his stock Busa pistons for free... should I need them later. Lowering the compression by shaving the tops of the pistons, CCing the heads, or using thicker head gaskets is probably a good idea as well. Dropping compression to no more than 10:1 is ideal for driveability I think.

I'm not especially concerned about the heads in any way; but of the stock crank, pistons, and rods I'm unsure. I've consider cryo-treating the crank and rods and using the stock Busa pistons (which I could freeze as well).
I don't know how far the stock injectors will take me either. I may add a 3rd injector if I go a little crazy.

I also expect to use a Wideband O2.

Please provide some constructive criticism instead of just criticism. Mounting placement ideas would be good as well.

Josh
 

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If you want to keep the motor from fragging, I'd consider a Falicon crank. Of course that $2k or so. You'll also need stronger rods. If you just want something you can blow and blow-up, it's cheaper to just replace the bottom end from ebay parts once you've grenaded it.

I don't know of piston failure problems. Wrist pins might fail at high load before the crown will. Lowering the CR sounds right. As far as mounting goes, is this a drag bike or a street ride? If you're making a drag track bike, you can forego amenities like battery, rear seat etc. The logical location for the turbo would be right at the 2 into 1 junction, but I don't know how much ground clearance you can give up or what the dimensions of your turbo would be. I assume it's a pretty small unit. If it's a drag-only bike, and you're extending the swing arm, you might be able to use some of the space you create ahead of the wheel.

Good luck and report back.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I intend to use this as a streetbike. The idea being that I have the insurance, weight, and flickability of the SV and the performance of a liter bike. I'm also a huge fan of it being original (somewhat) and a sleeper.

Not that I distrust your information, but how did you come upon the information about weak pins and crank?

I'm just trying to find some hard numbers to work with; largely because if I can find the person who discovered those numbers, then I could get into contact with them and get some other good info.

The engine apparently changed from '02 to '03 and I'm wondering if much of the speculation/beliefs about the crank being weak is about the pre-03's.

There's allot of folks turbocharging cars that were normally aspirated without changing any internals at all. Much of this been going on lately. The key is excellent engine management along with plenty of fuel. For example, I just read about a guy turbocharging his stock 6.0L early 90's truck and making 600HP to the ground! Didn't even have to remove the valve covers.

I'd like to partake in such astonishing discoveries of the SV motor... should they exist.

Direct to a good SV motor building site of some sort other than TWF... already checked it out.

Thanks,
Josh
 
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03 crank is no better than 99-02.difference is that 03 crank does not use trust washer and has extra grove for oiling on left side bearing.on top of that rods are weak.if you want better rods get carrillo's.or stock hayabusa rods.with busa rods you will get both,stronger rod and lower compression.rods are little shorter,out of head I think about 20 thou.you can also lower compression by using different thickness base gasket.no need to machine pistons.I would also replace head bolts with studs.and so on .....
 

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Discussion Starter #5
TWF said:
03 crank is no better than 99-02.difference is that 03 crank does not use trust washer and has extra grove for oiling on left side bearing.on top of that rods are weak.if you want better rods get carrillo's.or stock hayabusa rods.with busa rods you will get both,stronger rod and lower compression.rods are little shorter,out of head I think about 20 thou.you can also lower compression by using different thickness base gasket.no need to machine pistons.I would also replace head bolts with studs.and so on .....
Helpful. Thankyou.
So do we then know that the crank can indeed only hold (blank?) horsepower?
I think I'll find some of the Busa rods; but I wasn't sure the stock Busa rods would bolt up to the stock SV crank.
Additionally, any idea on how low the compression would drop with the Busa rods? I'm too lazy to calculate it.

Josh
 

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do they sell this as a kit. i'm interested in turbocharging my bike also. what about a supercharger. i would preffer a supercharger then a turbo. wouldnt want the boost to kick in while going down a clover leaf.
 

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Good luck finding a "kit"... Cause there isn't one. There hasn't been one in the 6 years of SV addiction.

I don't even know of anyone that has turbo'd the SV twin. But the next question is why???? For the money to do it, buy something else.... I know it's not an SV and turbo-ing an SV would be really cool... but why????
 

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yeah, I guess if I was to get a turbo kit for my SV I would just get an aprilia. Yeah sure the insurance would be higher but more durable and nimble so... y'know.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Quick note: I've lowered my HP goal from 120HP to 100HP and torque from 150 to about 120. I think this would be totally worth it and significantly more reliable and realistic if I decide to stay with a stock crank but Busa rods and pistons.

Josh
 

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ShaggyZ said:
Quick note: I've lowered my HP goal from 120HP to 100HP and torque from 150 to about 120. I think this would be totally worth it and significantly more reliable and realistic if I decide to stay with a stock crank but Busa rods and pistons.

Josh
Gosh, that sounds so realistic now, 120 lf-lbs out of 40 CI, and 100 hp. You planning on that torque peak at ~3000 rpm??? :roll:
I gotta say, I've never understood the whole troll mentality, posting something obviously idiotic looking for responses. Shouldn't you be watching South Park reruns in your parents basement :?: :?:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ironic that you would go out of your way to post something like that when you have nothing to offer. That's exactly what you were criticising.

Anyway, do you think anyone expected to reliably make 250HP on the mighty Busa stock? Or 700HP on a modified Busa? Or to hit 232MPH on a streetable motorcycle (check out SuperKaos.com)?

If we can supposedly make 80HP with a big bore setup, you can be sure that turbocharging this motor can net an additional 20HP.
You might look into the kinds of things being accomplished in the performance automobile market. Even 10 years ago, who expected a factory 2.5L Turbo Subaru to be making ~280HP stock? Consider the 2.0L Mitsubishi turbo motor even making 400HP on stock internals... yep, with a great deal of reliability.

Your close-mindedness will keep you from accomplishing anything fantastic.

This party is over.
Josh
 

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Calling somebody a troll is pretty harsh, Rich. Maybe ShaggyZ is trying to do something you think is odd or a waste of time, but he's not building a road race bike. He's trying something novel (at least for thie board). Let's not attack people for being different than the herd.

If you get it done, ShaggyZ, a lot of folks here will want to know how you did it.
 
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ShaggyZ said:
If we can supposedly make 80HP with a big bore setup, you can be sure that turbocharging this motor can net an additional 20HP.

Josh
to get 80 you dont even have to open motor.
you can get 100 without turbo.problem is keeping it running.
 
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Plumbing a turbo on a v twin will be the hardest obsticle I think. You might have to do some sort of underseat exhaust and have the turbo somewhere by the rear shock. Then you have wastegate plumbing. What turbo are you going to use? I would think the smallest turbo you can find (maybe the turbo off the VW/audi 1.8t) due to us only having 2 cylinders, there isn't much exhaust gas velocity to spin up the turbine. Another thing to think about is knock protection. A few good pings and it could break the crank. You will need at least an oil line to the turbo, possibly a coolant line as well, the oil will need to drain back to the oil pan somehow. You will need more fuel like your friends said. I wonder if you can just use a power commander or if you need some type of rising rate fuel pressure riser, that will need a vacuum line to the intake most likely (It does on my wrx anyway).

That is all I can think of off the top of my head. Good luck and take a lot of pictures!

You won't get more torque then HP. Hp = torque x rpm / 5252. The SV revs to 11k right, hp and torque cross at 5252, you're hp will continue to rise after that depending on how much cfm you are pushing and torque will be falling off. I wouldn't shoot for a specific hp number, maybe start at 2 psi and see if it will run fine then start adding more air until you're air fuel is correct and you don't detect any knock.
 

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Fatass SVS said:
Calling somebody a troll is pretty harsh, Rich. Maybe ShaggyZ is trying to do something you think is odd or a waste of time, but he's not building a road race bike. He's trying something novel (at least for thie board). Let's not attack people for being different than the herd.

If you get it done, ShaggyZ, a lot of folks here will want to know how you did it.
Yeah, I probably shouldn't have said anything. The guy may not be a troll, but he obviously doesn't understand the difficulties in turbocharging a small v-twin. Akiata's post does a nice job of laying out some of the issues. I'm all for weird, off-beat projects, but this one ain't gonna happen.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
There are pictures I've seen of turbos mounted on V-twin motors. Majestic Turbos did a monster turbo Harley and Kaotic Motorcycles makes a kit for a few non-Harley cruisers.

The easiest mounting would be to put the turbo right where a slip-on pipe would go.
I think it could be easily mounted about 6in in front of my right knee and about 4in down with the compressor opening facing forward.

I've considered a turbo like the 1.8T turbos or the SRT-4 turbos. At first, I thought even those would be too big; but they don't rev to 11k RPM like our little motors do. Besides... have you seen how big some of the Busa turbos are? I don't want to externally wastegate it for the sake of cost, space, and a real need. I think an internal wastegate will do the job just fine. Though, the wastegate hole and the puck may need to be enlarged.

The exhaust plumbing to the slip-on area would be easy but the longer oil supply and drain lines wouldn't be fun. The charge pipe would be small enough (2in at largest) and splitting into two once under the gas tank for each TB.
I'm pretty sure I would pass on coolant lines seeing as there would a great deal of air cooling.. especially compared to an underhood mount in a car.

If I am able to get this mother going at some point, I would have my friend do the welds for me to probably try to mount the turbo towards the front of the bike. I would use the stock pipes to where they collect and run a single pipe up to the turbo. Coming out of the turbine, I hope to have a cast iron downpipe that would already have a 90* to aim it to the side of the bike. I'm in the world of turbofords, so I could get a hold of an IHI turbo which is pretty small and has that elbow.

As mentioned before, a Wideband O2 would be totally necessary, I think. An EGT would be nice as well.

When I stated the HP/TQ goals with TQ higher I was thinking in car land. I know the equations and the TQ number being higher would probably not happen, though it could technically with a small enough turbo. Also, I was thinking I'd like to not have the turbo spool until 4000RPM at the lowest and not make full boost until 5k or 6k.

Any idea on how to run only 2psi? In my experience, the lowest that could really be run is 5psi unless I modify a wastegate actuator and hog out the wastegate opening.

Thanks for the input.
Josh
 

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ive been following this thread for a bit

Shaggy you are not crazy
I too am going to build a turbo kit for my sv

and all the nay sayers may flock to us but it IS possible


parts needed:

Gt12 Garret turbo ( they use it on a 400 EX it will work SV)
Custom tubing for the exhaust to the turbo (EASY)
Custom alum piping to an alum airbox that fits over the stock Throttle bodies
again EASY

oil feed and drain wont be too difficult

the only issue i see is the engine managment
I am buying a TEKA enginme management unit for suzukis
i think that combined with slightly larger injectors (dpending on the headroom of the stock ones) will work just fine

tuning wont be an issue for me being i have an all wheel drive dyno that can accomodate bikes quite easily

the ony real difficult part will be mounting the turbo
and event then its a matter of time and patience.
 

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SVridah03, ShaggyZ, good luck. Please, if you do the turbo conversion, post some pics to amaze us.
 
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