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In case anybody cares, a stock 03 header cut down the typical way to fit a slipon weighs 5lbs 14oz. That was alot less than I expected. Figured I'd throw it out there in case anybody was curious.

For what it's worth, going from slipon to full saved me 3 lbs.
 

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For 3 whole pounds, are you willing to also include a PowerCommander to correct what will be a wildly lean running engine? (Dyno time + PC3 = ~500 bucks) Or you can just run lean and pray..

A slip on will require less if any tuning for the bike to tolerate (unless its a stubby with no backpressure to it at all).

I guess what I'm saying is... that's actually an expensive 3 pounds.
 

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Cant you just download a map from the PowerCommander website to the PCIII? Wouldnt that eliminate Dyno time?

Pulled from PowerCommander Website:
313-007 Yoshimura slip-on , Stock or aftermarket air filter
313-006 M4 full exhaust, Stock or aftermarket air filter
313-005 Leo Vince full exhaust, Stock or aftermarket air filter
313-004 Two Brothers Racing slip-on exhaust and stock or aftermarket air filter
313-003 Micron full exhaust and stock or aftermarket air filter
313-002 Yoshimura full exhaust and stock or aftermarket air filter
 

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There is the lazy way, yes.

There is no eliminating dyno time if you want a properly running motor. It may feel great with this or that map, but there's nothing that compares to an actual custom map for that specific motor. You may also find a map that works seemingly great, but has massive lean spots.. Or a map that is way too rich and wetting your bores down at times. Its better to know that your FI isn't trying to murder your engine than it is to save 100-200 bucks and not tune the bike completely. Just my opinion
 

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For 3 whole pounds, are you willing to also include a PowerCommander to correct what will be a wildly lean running engine? (Dyno time + PC3 = ~500 bucks) Or you can just run lean and pray..

A slip on will require less if any tuning for the bike to tolerate (unless its a stubby with no backpressure to it at all).

I guess what I'm saying is... that's actually an expensive 3 pounds.
You don't do much racing, do you? I know people that would kill to lose 3 pounds for $500 :lmao:
Once you've taken everything off that can be unbolted or cut, the only way to go lighter is to replace heavy, cheap / stock parts with lightweight expensive parts. On a race car, a set of off the shelf Koni shocks with steel bodies might cost you around $400. A set of pimpy aluminum bodied shocks that save a pound or less each will set you back anywhere from $2000 to "how much you got?"

I guess what I'm saying is... $500 for 3lbs ain't really that bad if you're really that concerned about weight savings.
 

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Then I'd think they'd do that first.. if they cared that much. My point is that improper tuning rich or lean could still end your time on the track unexpectedly.. and cost more than 500 bucks later. Its better to know there's a risk to that cheap weight loss, IMHO.

I suppose I'm off on what $500/3lbs is really worth. I found a free 3lbs shortening my pipe lol That's a pretty cheap 3lbs (so it may take a bribe to pass tech, but... it'll be less than 500 bucks)

If you want cheap, technically the ECU + TEKA tuner is enough to get 98% of the usable power out of the motor if tuned specifically for operation over 4k and won't spend much time with any loads between idle and about 3500 or so (resolution issues in the ECU vs sensors limits having the entire range being "idea"). You save the cost and weight of the PC... :naughty: But it only works if you have a tuner locally.
 

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You can save at least 5lbs by swapping to a different battery and it will only cost you about $140.

Brian
If you buy an expensive battery, yes. But like I said, once you get through all the easy / cheap stuff, you're left with spending big money to shave weight.
 
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