[Harabec]

So I am attempting to remove the stock shock to change it out for a different one. I'm running into a problem though. I used a 3/8" rod through the pivot point on jack stands to get the rear off the ground and have the front end on a pitbull forkstand to keep things stable. My problem is that I just cannot seem to get the bolts connecting the dogbones out.

I have a torque wrench set to over 140 newton meters and it pops before I'm even able to get the bolt moving. I've also broken two extenders trying to get a better angle/more torque. Am I doing something wrong? should I be starting with the bolt on the top of the shock first? my haynes manual says to start with the bolt connecting the bottom of the dogbones to the linkage but for the life of me I just can't get it to budge. I also am wary of using my body weight to jerk the wrench as that might cause enough force to move the bike and throw it off the jacks.

Can anyone offer some advice? thanks

 

[UnluckyChrms]

Never, EVER, use a torque wrench to break bolts. That's a quick way to completely ruin a good tool.

As for getting the bolt out, try soaking the nut/bolt in some penetrating fluid. Make sure all weight is off the rear as well. I usually prefer to remove the shock with both ends up on stands, and a jack under the crankcase to take the weight off the suspension.

 

[SVstryker]

Have someone move the swingarm up and down while you try to loosen it. This worked for me.

 

[Cider]

My wife bought a 2002 used, and I had to use an impact wrench to get those bolts off. They come off easier now, but that first time was ridiculous.

 

[tlc4diving]

I had to use a cheater bar and a hammer. I think a very large gorilla tightened the bolts.

 

[xnoahx]

Im a fan of using a mallet to beat on my ratchets to get stiff bolts off. Poor mans impact wrench

 

[Marc]

The nut of the nut/bolt assembly usually is easier to break loose than trying to turn the bolt side, if that helps.

 

[Currently]

+1 :iamwithstupid:

Buy a 20 inch breaker bar from your local autoparts store.
Then go to Home Depot or Lowes and get a 1 inch black pipe that is 3 feet long.

Always work the nut ... WITH A 6 POINT SOCKET! :

The factory puts loc-tite on the **** things.

When the nuts are loose, you will have to use a crowbar or pry bar to put under the tire to take the tension off the bolts so they slip out. Do NOT bang them out even with a brass drift ... the dam n things (bolts) cost almost seven bucks a piece.

 

[dubtecv2]

When the nuts are loose, you will have to use a crowbar or pry bar to put under the tire to take the tension off the bolts so they slip out. Do NOT bang them out even with a brass drift ... the dam n things (bolts) cost almost seven bucks a piece.

Sounds like you have first hand experience in this...;D

 

[Marc]

Buy a 20 inch breaker bar from your local autoparts store.
Then go to Home Depot or Lowes and get a 1 inch black pipe that is 3 feet long.

There's a saying for that technic, "it's either gonna come or bleed" ;D

 

[Harabec]

Phew, thanks everyone for the suggestions. I ended up using the flex-head breaker bar and a standard wrench affixed to the other side braced against another part of the bike. Once those babies popped off I actually yelled in my garage "YESSS!!" which got my neighbor's attention xD. The new shock is now in!

 

[Currently]

Sounds like you have first hand experience in this...;D

Pain = experience = wisdom

I can now pop a shock off and back on my bike in less than 20 minutes.

BTW ... congrats on finally succeeding on swapping out the shock.
Hope you took notes, you will use those notes again.
Did you use Blue Loctite on the bolts?