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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have spark to both plugs after replacing the coils, plug wires, and plug caps. Starts like a champ, not missing at all. Front pipe getting hot while the rear is not. I have compression. I have spark. So the absent cylinder is a problem with the fuel?

It's been a long 4 weeks. Replaced rear tire, sprocket (front and rear), chain, repainted, coils, plug wires, plug caps, and still don't have a bike. Any insight as to where my rear cylinder has gone off to?
 

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You could open the rear carb drain screw on the bottom of the float bowl and see if it's dry or full. Why did you replace both coils with lead wires?
 

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Did the bike run okay before you replaced the ignition parts? Did you replace the parts as a general tuneup on an older bike? Were you having issues before the work?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No, I had no spark in the front plug and the bike backfired real bad. So i bought new plugs plug caps and plug wires and that didn't fix it so I went and picked up some slightly used coils and now have great spark in both plugs. Where/how do I get to the float?
 

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Lift the tank up and remove the airbox. Run your hand under the rear carb. The bottom of the carb is the float bowl. You may be able to see the float bowl by looking through the frame on the right side. There is a screw that you can open to drain the fuel from the float bowl. If you do this, place a rag under the bowl to catch the gas. Or, you can pull the rear plug after trying to start and see if the plug is wet from fuel or dry.
 

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Double check your spade connectors on the coils. I had a very intermittent issue losing one cylinder. Tried all sorts of things. Ended up being a connector that would vibrate loose from time to time. A quick squeeze with some pliers and it's been good ever since.

May as well just pull the carbs and do a clean/rebuild. Can't hurt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Welllllllllllllllll figured it out. Apparently when I put the rear plug back in the threading from the plug had loosened enough so that when I started the engine to let it warm up the threading from the plug disconnected from the rest of the plug. The plug then managed to wiggle itself far enough from the threading to prevent spark (thank god, or I could have shot my plug into my ass). Just used an extractor to pull out the old threading and replaced the plug. Fires up and runs beautifully. I am still going to take it into the shop to see if this problem created any other, larger issues within the cylinder.

Stupid NGK plugs. I have never seen the threading disconnect from a plug like that at such a low torque.

Thanks for the advice though guys, love this site!
 
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