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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,Hope everyone is just great!!
Just back from a little trip from West Coast of Florida to East Coast of Florida. What a ride!!
But, Something I have been noticing for a couple weeks. If I am sitting in middle of day in sunny heat and not moving, She will get hotter than she did before. Granted its like 93 outside. The fan will turn on about 215ish. But engine temp will creep to 225 and by then she usually coming down. If cruisin down road averaging about 180 mid range. So it seems the thermostat is fine but my gut says the fan switch is dragging too long to come on? I want to do whats best for bike. But prefer some input for direction, other than replacing every hose, thermostat and switch. Which is not a bad idea anyway. I am the guy who does not care. Then you know what you got and whats been done!!
And any recommendations on hoses, other than oem? And ofc the coolant is topped off and new and in the middle on the reservoir!!! ;)
 

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Silicon hoses are the usual go to. Samco or MotoHose, and there are cheaper eBay sets that, in reality, are probably as good. As for the cooling fan, a lot put it on a switch, then you can turn it on/off whenever you see fit.
 

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The switch is working fine. I would keep it as is.

It's never a bad idea to replace old hoses. A coolant flush is/should be routine. I like Engine Ice. I've noticed a good synthetic oil (fresh) helps when it's really hot. I no longer like running anything super thin when things get hot. 10w40 is always good.

If the bike stumbles when things get hot, I would dig in. In my experience, runability issues crop up when temps get extreme and maintenance items start to fall behind. A well cared for engine actually likes to be hot.
 

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When I put in the PC5 and got the A/F on the 13.5:1 line all the way across the range (was lean all across the board, but crazy off the scale lean at part throttle in the lower mid range) the overall operating temperature dropped around 5 degrees. Taking the lowers off will drop it another 6 or so degrees. In cooler weather it actually struggles a little to keep it's temperature up.
When it's in the 90's, they're going to run hot no matter what. As long as the fan does hold it around 220, it'll be good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi guys,
Thanks so much for the responses. I really appreciate it.
So they have all hoses, even the small ones available? Cause I want to do all of them. Is just how i roll.
MOH i am confused bout what you wrote here.... is like Russian to me... lol
you wrote.... "When I put in the PC5 and got the A/F on the 13.5:1 line all the way across the range (was lean all across the board, but crazy off the scale lean at part throttle in the lower mid range) the overall operating temperature dropped around 5 degrees"
Oh and I do not have lowers. I just did the coolant like 800miles ago and I use Yamalube 10w-40 and change it prob every 1k with filter. Its wet clutch ready ofc.
Thanks
 

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Hi guys,
Thanks so much for the responses. I really appreciate it.
So they have all hoses, even the small ones available? Cause I want to do all of them. Is just how i roll.
MOH i am confused bout what you wrote here.... is like Russian to me... lol
you wrote.... "When I put in the PC5 and got the A/F on the 13.5:1 line all the way across the range (was lean all across the board, but crazy off the scale lean at part throttle in the lower mid range) the overall operating temperature dropped around 5 degrees"
Oh and I do not have lowers. I just did the coolant like 800miles ago and I use Yamalube 10w-40 and change it prob every 1k with filter. Its wet clutch ready ofc.
Thanks
Power Commander 5, it's a piggy back fuel tuner. A/F is the air/fuel mixture. It's optimum at 13.5 parts air for 1 of fuel. The readout we were getting from the dyno was showing the A/F to be sometimes well over 17 parts air to 1 of fuel. This is known as a (very) "lean" condition. Motor running that lean will cause it to run hotter. Get it dialed to where it's supposed to be with the fuel tuner and it runs cooler, along with gaining a bit of power (5-6hp in that super lean midrange and 2 on top end on mine).
 

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Power Commander 5, it's a piggy back fuel tuner. A/F is the air/fuel mixture. It's optimum at 13.5 parts air for 1 of fuel. The readout we were getting from the dyno was showing the A/F to be sometimes well over 17 parts air to 1 of fuel.
Thanks for clearing that up MO. I was also quite confused with your code/acronym-filled reply.
 

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Thanks for clearing that up MO. I was also quite confused with your code/acronym-filled reply.
Sorry about that. I forget that some stuff isn't common knowledge. Lol, with yours being carbed you're probably more in tune with jets, needles, floats and float heights, slides, and such. Other than dirt bikes and one street bike ('05 ZRX1200), I've been dealing completely with fuel injection for the last 20 years.
 

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... The fan will turn on about 215ish. But engine temp will creep to 225 and by then she usually coming down. If cruisin down road averaging about 180 mid range. So it seems the thermostat is fine but my gut says the fan switch is dragging too long to come on?
You are right.

The fan switch should switch from Off->On at 208degF, and from On->Off at 198degF. A new fan switch should solve the problem.
 

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Always check the coolant level with the engine cold and taking the Rad cap off and preferably on a paddock stand. The coolant overflow bottle does not tell the truth.

HTH :)
 
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Hi,
Before my trip on the side stand, the rad was to the brim and reservoir was just over half way. Is that good and okay?
Yep that's fine. Even though I have no problems with my 99 I like farkles so have fitted a cheap Temp gauge on my handlebars. The temp probe is just tie-wrapped onto the Temp sensor/Rad switch. It gives pretty accurate running temps.

LCD Temp Meter



The one on the left is a Volt meter.

Check the WSM on how to check/burp the system air just in case.

When I've bench-tested the running temps on my Paddock stand the fan kicks in around 92/95 Deg C and once the fan drives the temps down it will sit at 82 Deg C if left.

On a normal ride at constant speeds of say 60/70 MPH and Air-Cooling the coolant temp/engine temp is around 50 deg C depending on the ambient temp of the day.
 

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Hi,Hope everyone is just great!!
Just back from a little trip from West Coast of Florida to East Coast of Florida. What a ride!!
But, Something I have been noticing for a couple weeks. If I am sitting in middle of day in sunny heat and not moving, She will get hotter than she did before. Granted its like 93 outside. The fan will turn on about 215ish. But engine temp will creep to 225 and by then she usually coming down. If cruisin down road averaging about 180 mid range. So it seems the thermostat is fine but my gut says the fan switch is dragging too long to come on? I want to do whats best for bike. But prefer some input for direction, other than replacing every hose, thermostat and switch. Which is not a bad idea anyway. I am the guy who does not care. Then you know what you got and whats been done!!
And any recommendations on hoses, other than oem? And ofc the coolant is topped off and new and in the middle on the reservoir!!! ;)
The coolest running coolant is plain water but can cause corrosion. The next coolest is VP coolant and it's no glycol formula is track approved.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hello,
:DSo finally an update. Had to order the switch and get it installed and work and find the time. Replaced the switch today. And the fan turns on about 210 and turns off at just under 200. So I imagine prob solved. Now I just need to ride it in some intense south Florida heat. Low chance of rain tomorrow so gonna take a ride in some traffic and we see. But sure all is gonna be ok. Thanks alot for every ones input. I guess next step will be to upgrade to better coolant VP and ice, etc.
 
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