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Figured I would start a new thread for this and then link to the orginal thread and back since this is more of a pictorial how-to.
The original thread can be found HERE and all credit for the following goes to D'Ecosse for the great information and ziptech800 for starting the original thread.

The bike this was done on is my daily commuter bike, a 2001 SV650S with 27449 miles on it. The charging system has been working just fine on this bike (battery was replaced about 6 months ago) and this mod was done purely as a preventative measure to the common failure of the factory RR.

Testing of the charging system pre-mod resulted in the following:

Ignition off - 12.96v
Ignition on, not running, lights on (high beams actually) - 12.32v
Bike running @ idle, high beams on, checked up to 3k rpms - 14.3v @ idle, dropped to around 13.5v as the bike was revved up to around 3k.

Not bad for the stock charging system with ziptech800 and D'Ecosse concurring with my findings. But there is room for improvement which is what this mod does.

So on with the pics!

The stock Rectifier/Regulator and wiring as it was installed from the factory.


This is the area where all the work will be done. To be installed: new RR with new wiring running from it to the battery and a couple new connections.


At the very least, you need to pull the rear cowling off the bike to do the RR swap/mod. I ended up pulling the tank off too, mostly to give me extra room to work and make taking all these pics easier!


Note the yellow wires from the RR, these run to the stator and actually have an extension harness plugged into them, providing a possible point of failure in the wiring/charging system. This mod will eliminate that.


Factory RR on the left, replacement RR on the right. The wires on the new RR are noticeably longer which is a good thing as it means less new wiring to run.


Stock RR on top of the new RR to show the physical size difference between them. Bolt holes are identical, no modification needed.


The stock RR on top. The new RR is the FH008BA from a 2006 Honda CBR600.


Stock RR with the factory extension harness installed.


Factory extension harness. This is removed and can be discarded.


The old output harness is the white plug with the red and black wires coming from it. This will not be reused for this mod.


Note that the old output harness is LIVE with power from the battery still. These wires could possibly be used for a power outlet mod in the future.


To prevent anything shorting on these connections, I stuck the female ends of shielded spade connectors on the male ends of the plug spades.


The old output harness is then taped up with electrical tape, safely out of the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
All of the parts that are needed to do this mod.
-1 3 conductor Metri-pack 280 connector for 12ga wire
-1 2 conductor Metri-pack 280 connector for 12ga wire
-1 Metri-pack 280 ATM fuse holder for 12ga wire
-30A ATM fuses (1 required, rest are spares)
-12ga wire in red and black, you will need about 4' of red and 2' of black
-Ring connectors for 12ga wire, 2 needed
-Shrink tube
-FH008 Regulator/Rectifier (2006 Honda CBR 600/1000 or similar)
-Basic wiring diagram of what you are doing (Thanks D'Ecosse!!)


30A ATM fuses. These are the little itty-bitty ones.


Found these at Autozone. The sheath is shrink tubing with glue in it. Great stuff.


Metri-pack 280 connectors and fuse holder. These make the install very clean and professional.


New RR installed. Longer bolts were required and I used lock washers under them.


These plugs will be removed and replaced with the Metri-pack 280 plugs.


RR side Stator connection. I was able to remove the plastic plug by popping the plastic tabe out (sticking up from the plug) and using a small screw driver to pop the wires out.


Cut the stock spade connectors off, then you just need to strip 1/4 from each wire for the new plug connectors.


New plug connectors for the Metri-pack plug soldered and ready to install the plug housing. The blue pieces are silicone dust boots for the new Metri-pack plug.


Plug completed.


Pulling the wires from the original stator side plug.


Soldered and ready to install the plug housing.


Stator side completed with new female 3 wire Metri-pack plug.


New stator connection completed. With the extra length of the wires from the new RR, the original extension harness has been eliminated.


These are the output wires from the new RR. Need to make these 4 wires into 2 wires. I had already cut some of the wire sheathing away when I remebered to take the pic.


Soldered and ready for shrink tubing.


Shrink tube on, ready to add the new plug.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
New 2 wire Metri-Pack plug from the RR output harness done.


Found a good spot for the new fuse holder and riveted it in place.


Fuse and battery connection portion of the new output harness ready to be installed. I missed taking pics of preparing the wire running to the negative side of the battery but you can see the ring terminal installed on the positive side here. The same was done for the negative lead.


30A ATM fuse.


Final connections made to the battery from the fuse holder. At this point, the install is done and all you need to do is verify everything is working properly and button things back up.


Everything tucked nicely away with only the fuse holder showing.


New RR fits perfectly, doesn't show at all.


So thats it. Overall a fairly easy installation thanks to all the write ups that have already been done. So what were my results after all this work?

Ignition off - 13.17v - not significant as I fired the bike up after finishing to make sure I didn't screw up.
Ignition on, not running, lights on (high beams actually) - 12.20v
Bike running @ idle, high beams on, checked up to 3k rpms - 14.63v @ idle, increasing to 14.75v as the bike was revved. This stayed constant regardless of rpm above idle.

So overall, success! I'll see how she performs over the next week but I don't forsee any issues at all.

Hope some of you find this handy.
 

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Awesome photo-doc xtremewlr - you've made that a really simple process for anyone to follow in your footsteps.
You can pretty much rest easy on that front now - don't see any charging issues in your future!

 

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What was the point of running new wires from the battery when you had power already that you capped and taped off?
that is what I was wondering>?

also if you needed to have a 30 amp fuse added. then could you not have just ran the wires too the stock fuse box. there is quite a bit of room. as you have 2 spars and one unused portion. true not as solid as your set up but a little easier with less over all cost.


but needless to say great write up. your work is very clean.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What was the point of running new wires from the battery when you had power already that you capped and taped off?
that is what I was wondering>?

also if you needed to have a 30 amp fuse added. then could you not have just ran the wires too the stock fuse box. there is quite a bit of room. as you have 2 spars and one unused portion. true not as solid as your set up but a little easier with less over all cost.


but needless to say great write up. your work is very clean.
Direct wiring to the battery from the RR output gives more consistent charging of the battery since there are less points of failure (multiple factory connections in the stock harness) and the wires are larger 12ga. Check the original thread I linked in the first post or with D'ecosse for more information on why this method is better.

Another advantage that I pointed out is that you can later use the unused power connection for something like a power outlet or some other 12V power source.

Do you need the 30A fuse? No, but it provides a measure of safety if there is a short in the system. Running the wires into the factory fuse box would actually be more work in my opinion and not be as simple because of trying to install the wiring into the fuse box. The external fuse holder is easy to install and keeps the charging system wiring separate for ease of troubleshooting if there are issues later.
 

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What was the point of running new wires from the battery when you had power already that you capped and taped off?
.... also if you needed to have a 30 amp fuse added. then could you not have just ran the wires too the stock fuse box. there is quite a bit of room. as you have 2 spars and one unused portion....
Direct wiring to the battery from the RR output gives more consistent charging of the battery since there are less points of failure (multiple factory connections in the stock harness) and the wires are larger 12ga. ...

... Running the wires into the factory fuse box would actually be more work in my opinion ...
:iamwithstupid:

The stock wiring from the R/R connector is small gauge and also is not ideally routed/coupled - it actually splices into the wire harness with a crimp coupler that has been known to oxidize & fail. (See here for example)
Many are under misapprehension that the R/R ONLY carries the current required to keep the battery charged - it actually carries ALL the current that the bike consumes PLUS the charging current for the battery.
So a 12ga wire directly coupled to the battery ensures there is minimal voltage drop across that larger grade wire than OEM wiring. Performance is thus improved in power delivery to the bike's system as well as the charging voltage applied to the battery

Yes, you could run new 12 ga wires to the fuse panel - as xtremewlr indicates, this is probably bigger job. I think his method was extremely practical and efficient. The only thing differently I would have done would be to install the 2-terminal coupler directly at the output of the R/R, saving the requirement for the solder splice (or if you commit to solder-splice then the requirement for the coupler becomes superfluous) There are two-wire variants of the FH008 which make the two-terminal connection simpler.

Note regarding the ATM mini-fuse - I would ONLY recommend using this if using the MetriPack fuse-holder that xtremewlr used: have seen too many problems with this size fuse used in Cooper-Bussman style holders in this high current application (even though it is rated for 30A). If using that type of fuse-holder go with the ATO/ATC size. The MetriPack however ensures that you have a good low-resitance connection between fuse and holder terminals and is an excellent choice.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Glad you guys like it! ;D

A couple of things to note.

I forgot to take a pic of how I ran the wire running to the 30A fuse and then to the battery. Its rather simple, you just need to find a route that you are happy with and keeps the wire from any possible damage.

I also neglected to take a pic before putting the tail fairing back on showing how I tucked all the wiring and connectors safely away. I did notice that I should have shortened the output wires from the RR because I ended up with both new connectors on top of each other which made for a rather bulky bundle to secure. Staggering them would have made it cleaner but it's not that big of a deal. Purely aesthetics.

Also, as pointed out to me by D'ecosse, in the following pic I installed the weather plugs incorrectly.
The rubber waterproof plugs for the metri-packs - you actually have those backwards - the narrow section is supposed to be crimped with the wire insulation. Not a big deal - will still seal like that.
 

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good writeup. btw, where did you buy the metri-pack connectors? i didn't think these were readily available at consumer stores.
 

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.... where did you buy the metri-pack connectors? i didn't think these were readily available at consumer stores.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120414995312

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380156054306

(same vendor) - he doesn't have the fuse-holders however.
Also you need to specify in the order notes you want the 14-12 ga terminals!

Fuseholders and two-terminal connectors available from Eastern Beaver - he does not have the three terminal connector however.
 

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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120414995312

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380156054306

(same vendor) - he doesn't have the fuse-holders however.
Also you need to specify in the order notes you want the 14-12 ga terminals!
Actually, just specify that you need them for 12ga wire if they are for the RR mod. Otherwise you will need to give him the specific wire gauge you are going to be using. He had emailed me because I forgot to include that tid-bit of info with my order. I responded saying I needed the 14-12ga terminals and he said he needed the specific wire I was using because they use different seals (silicon weatherproof boots) for the different wire sizes. Blue for the 12ga wire and grey for the 14ga wire.
 

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Good point Dack, if I can be any help in doing that let me know
 

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Awesome write up! I really appreciate the time and effort to share things like this. I believe that I have read the 02 sv had this problem resolved by Suzuki, any confirmation?
 

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Wanted to bump this back up. I'm working on this now and from my readings per D'ecosse's instructions it will need some attention.

If anyone has downtime due to weather, now's a good time to think about checking your bike.
 
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