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I've been noticing a number of SV 650 owners using Rotella T synthetic 5W-40 motoroil. I'm considering this oil as an alternative to with Amsoil (AMF) 10W-40 as Rotella T synthetic 5W-40 can be purchased for about half that of Amsoil and it is available at Wal-mart(no private distributor necessary). However, if Amsoil is superior, then the extra cost and hassle of acquiring it may be worth it. These questions might help in the decision:

1. Are these two oils of the same group of synthetics? My researh indicates that Rotella T is from group III and Amsoil is group IV (based on PAO's Polyalphaolefins).

2. Is there an issue that Rotella T is 5W-40 rather than the recommended wait of Suzuki 10W-40. From what I understand about weights, this should not be an issue as the 5W rating gives it better flow at cold temperatures and the 40 means it has the same high temperature viscosity when hot as 10W-40.

3. My research indicates that Rotella T Synthetic doesn't contain moly or friction modifiers which can cause wet clutch slippage; however, does it contain sufficient amounts of phosporus and zinc for metal to metal contact?

I look forward to your replies.
 

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kme-- Without getting technical (and talking out of an orifice that usually needs wiping) I have found that the Rotella 5W-40 synthetic does indeed seem to make the motor start easier in cold weather (<40 F).

Also, you are correct, Rotella synthetic does not contain moly, which I understand is detrimental to wet clutches.


HTH
 

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this topic has been covered and recovered many times over - use the search and you may find what you want.

in simple, some will tell you :
1) oil is oil
2) Rotella makes it shift like crap
3) Rotella makes it shift like silk
4) works great - why pay more and make an extra trip

Unless I forgot something - Thats about it right there
 

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1. Yes rotella is a group III. On paper, Amsoil may be better but in the real world you'd never notice.

2. Unless you're constantly operating your motorcycle in temps below freezing, the 5w vs 10w is a moot point. Then again, if you primarily ride in temps below freezing, you're probably tough enough to laugh off a minor mishap like an engine failure. :lol:

3. No friction modifiers, just a really good additive package. Rotella is a very stable oil.
 

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...however, does it contain sufficient amounts of phosporus and zinc for metal to metal contact?
If you ever determine the minimum level of phosphorous/zinc required for engine wear protection, please let us know. That's the only question I have about the new API standards. I don't know how we're going to be able to tell, other than through experience. Even then, how do I know how much more engine life I would have gotten if I'd had x-amount more zddp?

How often does metal/metal contact occur in our engines? Some say it should rarely happen. I wonder if it isn't a factor during cold starts. But I don't know.

What I've begun to do is to pay to have a couple of oil analysis' done on each of my bikes. It's $20 or less in my experience, and so far, it's let me extend my oil drain interval on two of my bikes, so it probably will pay for itself over time, since I'm using synthetic. The analysis shows wear metals, as well as how much fuel is getting into the oil, and some other things. I'm running an SL universal oil and I figure if it doesn't have enough wear protection, it should show up on my analysis reports. That's all I can think of to do, other than just not worry about it, and that's just not my personality. I enjoy worrying about things like this. Just not as much as I enjoy riding my bike.

Randy
 

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The only advantage PAO's have is above 300 degrees, and your engine doesn't operate there. If you've added a turbo, it might be worth it.
 

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punkjumper said:
does anyone use the regual Rotella $5 per gallon?
That would be me, except that it's around $6.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for all the information everyone; it will help in making a final decision. I guess my next question is if anyone has had any real riding experience with these two oils? Also, although, as it has been stated, group III is sufficient for below 300 degree operating temperatures, I'm really curious to know if Amsoil is a group III or IV (PAO) oil in attempt to understand it's higher cost.
 

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does anyone use motul or repsol?
 

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wonderjosh said:
does anyone use motul or repsol?
I used Repsol once. It had a cool little straw built into the bottle. The bike started shifted a little clunky after 2-3K, so went back to Redline. Probably changed it before necessary, but I don't mind changing more frequently to get smoother shifting.
 

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Oh boy an oil thread :p

thought these would have gone away with the sticky.

I use rotella and have had no problems with it over about 9k miles and 3 changes.

Don't think it's good check out this vid,

SHELL ROTELLA T CONQUERED PIKES PEAK
How an oil helped conquer an mountain :p :p :wink:
http://www.rotella.com/pikespeak/pikespeak_video2.html

Now really who can argue with that!!! Rotella T for life, yo.

Oil is oil as long as it doesn't have friction modifiers.
 

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Regular old Rotella

I've used nothing but Rotella T 15W-40 for more than 28 years. The last car I built was a 1973 (mostly) Corvette with a 366 cubic inch small block fully tricked out. I put 77,000 miles on that car and the engine was still clean and tight when I sold it two years ago. Similar experience with a 1963 1/2 Ford Galaxie 500 Xl with a Thunderbird 390 and top loader four speed. 110,000 miles when I sold it to one of my brothers-in-law. I could go on.

I've used it on all my motorcycles. Couldn't be happier, always have clean engines.
 

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I use 4 gallons of Rotella in my truck. :lol:


I use what Rotella I have left in the garage in my bike. 8)
 

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I just switched from Rotella Dino to AMSOIL 10w40 (AMO-QT).

Notice the AMO-QT is not motorcycle specific, however it was readily available.

I did some research and was able to pull a page (waybackmachine.org) and it would appear that AMO-QT is the same as the AMSOIL motorcycle specific oil.

Conveniently, AMSOIL dropped the description "contains no friction modifiers" from the standard synthetic (AMO-QT) when they introduced "motorcycle specific" oil. :|


It is all about marketing...


BTW, the point is that I am in a good position to determine if the switch from Rotella T (dino) to AMSOIL synthetic was worth it.

Stay tuned for a future post... :)
 

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yeah. I'm thinking of switching from bike oil to rotella. The suzuki oil is already turning black after 1000miles. I bought some bike oil that costs about $5 a quart and have yet to try it. After that, I'm gonna try rotella synthetic. Except i might change more frequently.
 
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