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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Dont ask for pics I will get them this weekend.

As for the install. The fairing came in a large box and was in good shape when i recieved it. The mounting holes are all marked with the "Approximate" locations. I first started by mouting the lower fairing at the exhaust mount location. I then began to cut out the headlight holes in the upper fairing. After I finished that I layed out my holes for connecting the upper and lower fairing. You can lay it out anyway you want depending on how much of a pain you want it to be to get to them. After that I drilled the holes for the upper mounting bracket. Then I installed the upper fairing and connected it to the lower fairing. I must say at this point the adjusting portion of this fairing can take a while but its not that bad.

Problem 1
The hole that was marked for the exhuast mount was about 3/4" to far back on the fairing pushing the fairing foward so the headlights didnt fit into the holes. Easy fix, I just drilled a new hole and and remounted looks great now.
Problem 2
If the upper and lower fairing arent lined up just right the lines dont look even and the panels "bubble."
Problem 3
The rear brake pedal hits the fairing. Easy fix just had to trim it.

I also had to make some custom brackets for the windscreen.

All and all it took me 8 hrs to get it to look right/fit right. People all say they have to cut holes in the fairing thats BULL! It doesnt touch and heat shield will be sure no paint damage will happen. I think that the fairing fits pretty well for something that didnt come from the factory. I really like the way it looks and can not wait to get her painted. For those of you looking for a full front for Gen 1 or 2 go with Ken. His stuff is good quality and it fits pretty well. For half the price of two wheel junkie I think its well worth it.
 

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i have this fairing and i like it, when i mounted my fairings tho the pipe was leaning against the fairing and actually turned it brown (this was way before i painted it) so i had to cut it and also do heat shield all around the rest.
a lil advice, when attaching your lowers to ur uppers, do no less than 4 screws.. one on each end, 2 in the middle

i think he had 3 places marked for holes but i made my own

other than that im looking foward to seeing how it comes :D!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I agree with the four. If you dont do four the panels will bubble and they will look like CRAP!
 

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When you get pictures up, send them to Ken and he'll post them on his site. I have the same fairing and the same fit-up problems that you described. My exhaust started turning my lower brown so I wrapped the exhaust w/ header-wrap and taped some heat-shield on the inside of the fairing. Here's a picture of mine in the intro post. Glad to hear others are having success w/ Ken's fairings.

http://forum.svrider.com/index.php?topic=55033.0
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah man your bike is sweet. I like it a lot. I am going to heat shield the lower to stay away from the browning. No need to wrap it though i heard. I already talked to Ken because my bike was a naked before I started so he wants a write up to know what my issues with wiring an S panel into my naked wiring. PRETTTY much the same except a couple wires are different colors etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I alrady drilled holes becaue I put stockers on to mount up the body. Why what is so different? I know you originally used stockers then put yours on.
 

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well
this may sound really weird.... when i put the gsxr mirrors on, i had to make new mounting holes in the fairings ken sent me, but they lined up with the new windscreen and bracket holes, i guess because the screws arent going in 100% straight.. you may have to mess with the holes a bit if u decide to goto gsxr mirrors, or maybeh not, just look out for it..
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks. By the way are you going to the Rally?
 

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i really really want to, i gotta figure out a way to get my bike there, im definately not riding to nc from florida, ugh

i tried to rent a truck and they wanted like, $.98 a mile, rofl
 
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