Somehow the plastic part that my clutch cable is encased in got pulled put of the engine cover, causing the cable itself to be exposed and break. When i had a new cable put on, the mechanic said that I'm almost completely out of adjustment at both the clutch and at the handlebar. The mechanic said some bikes you can reset the arm that the cable attaches to at the clutch to give you more adjustment on some bikes, but he couldn't remember if you can do it to the SV. Do you guys know if you can move the position of that metal arm to give more adjustment???
Resetting Clutch Cable
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Not difficult
The adjustment is under the front sprocket cover. Remove the cover, get some slack in the cable by loosening the adjustment at the lever and, if necessary, the engine case. You will note that the lever arm the cable attaches to has a nut and what looks like a screwdriver slot.
Make sure bolts on the bracket that holds the lever arm are not loose (I've seen a couple of loose ones).
Put a box end wrench on the nut and a screwdriver in the slot. Loosen the nut so you can turn the screwdriver. Turn the screwdriver clockwise until you feel resistance. Back off 1/4 turn. Hold the screwdriver steady and snug down the lock nut. All you have to do now is take the slack out of the cable with the cable adjusters. Leave about 1/2" freeplay in the clutch lever measured at the end ball.
The adjustment is under the front sprocket cover. Remove the cover, get some slack in the cable by loosening the adjustment at the lever and, if necessary, the engine case. You will note that the lever arm the cable attaches to has a nut and what looks like a screwdriver slot.
Make sure bolts on the bracket that holds the lever arm are not loose (I've seen a couple of loose ones).
Put a box end wrench on the nut and a screwdriver in the slot. Loosen the nut so you can turn the screwdriver. Turn the screwdriver clockwise until you feel resistance. Back off 1/4 turn. Hold the screwdriver steady and snug down the lock nut. All you have to do now is take the slack out of the cable with the cable adjusters. Leave about 1/2" freeplay in the clutch lever measured at the end ball.
No
The cable should be slack while you're adjusting the pushrod mechanism. What you are adjusting at this point is the free play in the pushrod mechanism itself. What you are turning with the screwdriver is the pushrod that disengages the clutch (well, in reality there are two sections to the pushrod stacked in the pushrod bore). You are setting the clearance between the end of the pushrod and the clutch pressure plate.
Once that adjustment is made you should be able to take the slack out of the cable so the lever on the bars has about 1/2" free play at the ball end of the lever.
The cable should be slack while you're adjusting the pushrod mechanism. What you are adjusting at this point is the free play in the pushrod mechanism itself. What you are turning with the screwdriver is the pushrod that disengages the clutch (well, in reality there are two sections to the pushrod stacked in the pushrod bore). You are setting the clearance between the end of the pushrod and the clutch pressure plate.
Once that adjustment is made you should be able to take the slack out of the cable so the lever on the bars has about 1/2" free play at the ball end of the lever.
S
svslider
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What kind of mechanic did you bring it to where he doesnt even know how to adjust the cable. If he replaced the cable he would be practically looking at the adjuster.
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