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Discussion Starter #1
I replaced the gasket on the generator cover with the ultra dark gray gasket maker. Now the bike won't even try to spin the crank. I made sure the starter gear was aligned, I don't think the shaft could have come off.

Now what? This happened once and I assumed it was the starter gear, so I made sure it was happy and aligned when I put the case back on. It's still doing the same thing. It's definitely not the battery, as I charged it fully yesterday.
 

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If you're not getting anything at all, it could be the connectors to the reg/rec or the sensor wire? Just something easy to check.
 

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IF the fuel pump primes when you turn the ignition on, then all the safety switches are satisfied except the clutch switch. So, if the bike is otherwise able to start (no blown fuses, no bad starter or ground cable) then the place to look first for no crank is the clutch switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Checked the fuses, checked the clutch switch. Fuses are all fine, switch was dirty but fine. Lubricated it a bit, and, still no go.

Now I am wondering if it is the battery since I charged it yesterday and it lost ~50% of its charge 12.2v instead of 12.7-13.2v like it should be. Since the engine does not spin it hasn't done any work, unless it isn't capable of work anymore! I am charging it now so I can give it a proper test. I'll be back in a few...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Turns out the battery died. Is 3-4 weeks too much time to let it sit? I have never had a battery die that easily, ever. Well, actually the battery before this one died mysteriously after being left for 1 week. Both of these batteries are Yuasa brand.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Okay so after a very brief google search, it turns out 4 weeks is the max you want to let a battery sit. So I guess I'm the idiot. lol 🤪
 

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I let mine sit all winter (like 4-5 months) and it usually cranks over no problem, until the 5th year. Then it gets replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well it looks like it wasn't the battery... New battery same result. Fuel pump primes, lights are all on, but crank doesn't turn. I checked the clutch switch by bypassing it. No change. The starter relay does make a click sound when I flip the run switch. I checked the starter's relays with a multimeter, they both pass.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
According to the manual it is either the Starter Relay or the Starter Motor. Next step is to connect the Starter Motor directly. How? Do I remove the cables on the battery and connect them with jumper cables to the frame and starter motor connector?
 

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I don’t recall the starter relay does anything with a “flip” of a switch. When you depress the Start button, the relay responds. Important distinction to me.

you can bridge the relay with a pair of pliers, I suppose, but probably safer with jumper cable. Alternatively, use jumper cable from battery to the starter’s positive terminal.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I don’t recall the starter relay does anything with a “flip” of a switch. When you depress the Start button, the relay responds. Important distinction to me.

you can bridge the relay with a pair of pliers, I suppose, but probably safer with jumper cable. Alternatively, use jumper cable from battery to the starter’s positive terminal.
Do I just attach the jumper from the positive terminal to the starter motor connector? While the battery is still attached to its cables normally?
 

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Do I just attach the jumper from the positive terminal to the starter motor connector? While the battery is still attached to its cables normally?
Yes. The 'connector' as you call it being the positive terminal on the starter motor. If the motor does not turn, then either the motor is bad or the negative side of the battery is not properly grounded to the frame AND the engine.

If the motor does turn, then you have a bad starter relay or bad cables or very poor connections.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I got the motor to spin once by jumping the starter relay. It definitely sounded more normal. Starting the bike with the button on the handlebar almost works now, it is sounding like a poor connection. Not a bad part. I am thinking it is the starter button connection. The ground cable on the bike does not appear to have any damage or corrosion, and neither does the red wire. But I should check those properly. I can test those cables with my multimeter with the continuity test. I need to know if there is a way to test the button without total disassembly of its housing? I ask because one of the screws is stripped, so getting it out is another project!
 

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Yes, you can do a voltage drop test to avoid disassembling things as I described in the thread i linked to above.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I did the voltage drop test. Testing the black and red wires as you said in that thread you linked, I got basically 0. Something like 0.01-0.04, very low. So it looks like the issue may be the starter button on the handlebar. Damn! That thing is not going to go easily...damn you Suzuki and your shit hardware!!

Anybody know how to remove a damaged screw head against gravity in the most difficult spot on a bike??! LOL.
 

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They shouldn't be super tight. Can you grab them with vise grips? Remember, anything that looks like a Phillips head screw on this bike is actually JIS, and too much torque using a Phillips screwdriver will damage the screw.

If you have the tool kit, the screwdrivers that come in it are JIS.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
I have the toolkit. And a better toolkit, It came from a GS450. Also I have some JIS bits.

This screw is number #3 in the parts diagram for the handle switch. It's head is mostly covered by plastic housing of the switch assembly. The head is stripped, so I'll definitely have to take off the handlebars to work on it. Can't cut a slot into it because it is so close to the plastic.
 
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