Suzuki SV650 Riders Forum banner

1 - 20 of 61 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm removing the Key Ignition switch and want to go to a toggle switch. I'm putting attack racing triple/gsxr forks on and no room for the key. I used a meter to track down what the switch does along with my book. Everything matches. So ....
Wires match up this way. I connect these wires
R-O GR-BR O/R-B/W
Thing is on the O/R - B/W I get 500ohms resistance going through the switch so matching the wires up direct doesn't seem to work just for these two wires...I can acutally run just these two through the switch with the others connected directly and start the bike. Then un-plug them and it runs. It just won't start with them connected direct. . All the others are have no resitance in the circut I see other bikes at the track with toggle switches so how did you do it?. Whats the deal how do I do this? Any help appricated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Here is how I did this to my 2000 SV650. The toggle switch was easy, but getting the ignition system to run was not. I did a search on the WERA message board and found the answer. What you need to do is to splice a 100 ohm resistor (I got mine from Radio Shack) into the ignition circuit. There should be an o/r wire leading from the ignition to the ignitor box. A wiring diagram will help here because wire colors may be different. Cut this wire and insert the resistor. If you have a 2003 or later model SV, then you may need a different resistor. I would definitely use a multi-meter to verify the correct resistance before you proceed. Also make sure and disconnect the battery before you begin working just to be safe. Let us know your results. Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks very much friend! I'm going out to get the resistor now. I'll let you know how it goes!



navrat said:
Here is how I did this to my 2000 SV650. The toggle switch was easy, but getting the ignition system to run was not. I did a search on the WERA message board and found the answer. What you need to do is to splice a 100 ohm resistor (I got mine from Radio Shack) into the ignition circuit. There should be an o/r wire leading from the ignition to the ignitor box. A wiring diagram will help here because wire colors may be different. Cut this wire and insert the resistor. If you have a 2003 or later model SV, then you may need a different resistor. I would definitely use a multi-meter to verify the correct resistance before you proceed. Also make sure and disconnect the battery before you begin working just to be safe. Let us know your results. Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
213 Posts
Thanks for the info on this page, I was ramming my head against the wall tring to get things started w/out the resistor as well....but here is my other question:

I removed my Ignition switch this past wknd and since there are three pairs of wires that need to be used in order to turn the ignition on, my electrical buddy said I need a SPTT (Single Pull Triple Throw) switch. Well I've looked high and low and can't find such a thing.

Do I really need to keep those three circuits seperate or can I use a SPST (Single Pull Single Throw) switch with all three pairs wires to two contacts?


Thanks!
 
T

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
you dont need those 3 circuits for race bike,gray and brown wires are for lights.you need to put resistor but you dont have to do it there.you can do it next to cdi box.now you are left with power in wire(red),just wire it in to kill switch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
213 Posts
Thanks TWF, I had a look at the wiring diagram and I see what u mean about the brown and grey. SO who cares about those. But I need a better explaination for my newbie self on the other two pairs:

I have the stock kill switch already wired. I suppose the red wire already lives there.

So if I keep the stock kill switch. I just need to wire up the O/R (Resistor)-B/W to my new aftermarket switch? What do I do with the Red and Orange pair?

Thanks,

Bryce
 
T

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Bster13 said:
I have the stock kill switch already wired. I suppose the red wire already lives there.
So if I keep the stock kill switch. I just need to wire up the O/R (Resistor)-B/W to my new aftermarket switch? What do I do with the Red and Orange pair?
what you mean kill switch already wired?
I junk all the wires not needed and conect red wire from ignition lock to kill switch(red replaces O/B).now kill switch is ignition lock,no key.
this aotumaticly bypasses side stand switch.only thing left is clutch switch whic is inline with starter button.so mif you take that wire off at big conector where it goes to clutch and rewire it direct to starter button you will bypass clutch switch.
I cut O/R about 3 inches away from cdi box and solder one end of resistor to it.other end of resistor I splice with B/W coming out of cdi box.
once this is done you can get rid of about 5 pounds of wires.everything is bypassed and all you need is few wires for ignition circle and few for charging.both ignition and charging shematics are in manual,those two are all you need to run bike.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
213 Posts
I never touched the stock kill switch. It's still there on the bike. I was worried about removing it in case it would not pass tech, I figured they'd like the nice big kill switch there in case I bit it. :p

I was originally going to replace the ignition with an aftermarket switch and leave the kill switch alone, but now I think I understand what u are saying that my stock kill switch will BE my ignition switch as as the kill switch as well. All in one.

I disabled the clutch switch by removing it from the spade connector up around the clutch lever and joined it together up there. I will do like you said now and follow it down to remove more wiring.

I was going to tackle the sidestand switch this wknd, thanks for the advice.

I have to balance the learning process with making sure the bike still runs for the next trackday. I'm getting more mechnically inclined each time I mess with the SV, so thank you for the advice. :)

Bryce
 
T

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Bster13 said:
I was originally going to replace the ignition with an aftermarket switch and leave the kill switch alone

Bryce
you can do that easy.all you need is red and orange wires.resistor you can do next to cdi box.than you dont need b/w wire at lock.basicly all you need is red and orange.
only problem is you have to leave rest of harness in place because wires run back and fore everywhere.best to not cut anything if you go this way.in which case I wonder why you replacing stock ignition? Attack makes ad on bracket for lock(at least it used to since I had set).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
213 Posts
yes I agree. baby steps...haha. I was looking for easy weight reduction and wasn't brave enough to hack the harness that bad so I figured a little switch to replace the ignition lock would be lighter, but I may go for your full on racing harness now that I had time (next trackday is the 23rd).

So here is my plan of attack...just let me know what to do with the orange wire and I won't bug you anymore, I really appreciate the help:

So basically as I understand it. Take the two wires, O/R - B/W, trace them back to the ECU and join them together with the 100hm resistor there.

The Gray and Brown wires don't mean squat whether they are joined or not, so track them back to the ECU and clip them.

Then all u have left are then Red and Orange pair of wires from the stock ignition switch. Not sure what to do with the Orange wire, but u take the Red wire and run it over to the stock kill switch and remove the O/B wire there, and insert the Red wire in it's place.

Then I need to address the charging system and I can start hacking.

Thanks,

Bryce
 
T

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Orange,you dont need it.
here is easy way.find starter relay,it is under seat.there are 3 wires on it,not counting big battery wires.one of them is Y/G.take this wire direct to starter button(it is same wire as on starter button now but it goes around in circles).B/W is ground,leave it alone.third is Red wire,this is the one that will feed power for everything and is same one that is on ignition lock but as rest of them it runs circles around.take this wire straight to kill switch.conect it to O/B.but before you conect it cut O/B from rest of harness whit only tail coming out so you can tie it with red.install inline 10A fuse somewhere on red wire so you can get rid of complete fuse box.you dont need it any more.
so now you got power going straight to kill switch.starter button is wired straight to starter relay.existing O/W wire coming out of kill switch is feeding coils and cdi box with power once you hit kill switch.you done there.now you go to cdi box.if you want to use tps sensor you can just run those 3 wires direct to it.
G and W/Bl are pick up and run straight in to right engine cover.you leave this alone.same with 3 yellow wires going from engine cover to regulator(power for regulator is same red you using for kill switch,it already had Y conection next to starter relay).back to cdi.2 wires going to neutral indicator light switch you dont need,cut them off about 3 inches away from cdi(just in case some day you use it)and tape it.B/W,this one is ground,it goes everywhere but you only need it for starter relay,diode,cdi box and regulator.conect all those on this wire and than conect to battery.your resistor will also conect to this wire with one end and other end to O/R.
what you got left is 2 wires for coils.W for rear and B/Y for front.if you have tach this B/Y will keep going from coil to tach.power for tach you can pick up at kill switch and ground you just go to frame.
since you dont have any lights you dont need big battery either,just replace with something like ytz7.
there are 2 ways to do it.one is to cut wires about 3 inches away from conectors you will use and run all new wires.second way is to first open up complete wire harness and pick those few you will need and than start cutting.
I always run new wires,easier for me.
ps.even for me this is full day of work,and I have done more than couple :)
what did you say is wrong with ignition lock ;D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,399 Posts
my head hurts :eek:
 
T

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
let me know if you get lost :)
there is about 7 pounds of wires and related things extra on bike.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
213 Posts
Well it's 12:01 am here now and time to hit the sack. Today I got to hear the full Ti Hindle exhaust and it barks LOUD...but backfire miserably with 140 mains, stock filter (snorkeled), 17.5 pilots, 2.5 turns out, 2 shims. I was told since the Airbox is still the bottleneck to getting air into the engine the jetting wouldn't be all that bad, but now I gotta go for it all with 152.5 mains and desnorkel and tank risers to get it back to running properly again....this will come b4 I tackle the wiring harness. I'm more comfy with it. But I'll be plugging away at it sure enough. Thanks so much again. And thanks for the SV, fore it carried me into the intermediate group already...rock on! ;D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
I'm really scared to ask whats involved in hacking up a 2003+ sv-650 ;D

is it basically the same?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
7 pounds is a heck of a weight saving. I guess too having a simple loom makes fixing crash damage is heaps easier.
Again my question has been asked . Time to haul out the ol stanley knife and soldering iron
 
1 - 20 of 61 Posts
Top