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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
On the way back home from NC this afternoon, I was riding pretty hard (80-80mph) in a 70mph zone (flow of traffic was 82) for about 60 miles straight. Got off on an exit to get lunch and as soon as I got to the top of the ramp the engine cut off. The "oh ish" red light came on and the oil can showed up on the display. I was able to push it to a Hardee's and parked it in the shade. Praying it was the oil temp overheating, I grabbed lunch and had a picnic under the tree. After a couple calls to some folks with internet, I rested for about an hour and started her back up. She started fine, but the red light/oil can was still there when you turn the key. When I started her, the lights went off. I rested every 25 miles home (had another 90 to go) to make sure it didn't over heat again and rode the speed limit, annoying the heck out of every other Memorial Day traveler on the road.

Now that I am home, I need advice. Has anyone ever had this happen? Was the SV just not built to run solid at 85mph for an hour (about 84 degrees outside)? The water temp never really crossed 200 from what I can remember seeing.

I just want to make sure I didn't do any permanent damage or if there is something I need to take a look at before riding again. I am going to let the bike completely cool down and go out tonight and turn her on to see if the lights are still there.

But until then.........any thoughts??
 

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No problem running your SV at any highway speed for any length of time. When you started the bike back up, I'm assuming "the lights went off" means the oil light on the gauge went off once the bike was running. The light only indicates oil pressure, not oil temp. Doesn't sound like anything overheated. How's the oil level in the sight glass? The oil and fuel light on the gauges will come on when the ignition is turned on and then goes off when you start the bike and the motor is running and there are no issues. Sounds like the motor just stalled for some reason.

Just to emphasize, the oil light will come on when you turn the key on. Once started, it should go out. When the motor stalls for any reason, the oil light will come on. That's normal. Just make sure the oil level is correct. You can put the bike into dealer mode to see if there are any error codes, but your MIL didn't come on, so probably just a glitch that stalled the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
When I came to a stop after stalling, I put it in first (kickstand up), depressed the clutch, had the kill switch off, and it wouldn't even attempt to fire. It was weird. It cut off while I was coasting at the top of the off ramp.

I know the red light comes on when you turn the key on, but does the oil can graphic show up on the display every time? I cannot remember seeing that happening.

I hope it was just a freak stall....but if that would have happened on the highway, I would have been in trouble. This is why I am concerned. I wouldn't want it to happen again. Luckily, my stomach was hungry.
 

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I don't know about the oil can icon. Never owned a 2nd gen. I think you have a sidestand switch problem. That's why the bike stalled perhaps. Your bike should have started in gear with the sidestand up and the clutch pulled in. It did crank, right, just didn't fire up? Where you coasting in gear or in neutral when the engine stopped?
 

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The 'oil can' shows up when you turn on the key until oil pressure closes the switch. If the oil level was good (assuming OP checked) and within normal change interval, it might have been hot fuel causing the idle instability and stall. After an hour+ at high speeds, it had to be getting down on the fuel, and what was remaining in the tank pretty darn hot...so it might have been trying to vapor lock. FI shouldn't do that, but low level hot fuel isn't the same as full cold getting to the injectors. After the first stall, it probably would have started up if you'd opened the throttle a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys!!!! The oil level was indeed good and I run synthetic. I needed lunch anyway....just wish I wouldn't have pushed it a quarter mile to a hardees in full gear.
 

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Or could it be first signs of the green connector going bad?
 

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Yeah there's the infamous "green connector" which, with time, tends to fail and all the electrical in the bike fails, and it shuts off. Easy fix, just ge a new one, if that's your problem of course... But it looks more like a hot fuel problem.
 

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Isnt the oil light the FI light also?

And turning of ignition off and turning it back on may have reset it.

I get a FI error occasionally with my PC under hard acceleration.

Just a thought.
 

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The oil pressure warning light (red LED) is also the FI light. If there were a problem that would cause the bike to stall, even while moving, the engine would stop spinning (assuming clutch lever pulled while coasting to a stop), the FI AND oil pressure warnings will be on, along with the oil can logo. The root cause being a FI/engine management problem, not a loss of oil pressure.

Typically, a loss of oil pressure bad enough to cause an engine to stall will not go away after a restart, and you would know it because the engine will be making very bad sounds at idle. For that reason, I believe you have an FI light problem, not an oil pressure problem.

If it was an FI problem, as soon as you switch the key off, the system resets. You will need to have it happen again and jumper the connector under the seat to read the code BEFORE you turn the key to off (but you usually need the key out to get under the seat - fun, huh?).

Vapor lock usually doesn't happen to running engines. Usually only when parked with a hot engine. If the check valve in the pump is bad or you have leaking injectors, the fuel pressure in the lines can become enough to overcome the seal and you get pockets of vapor that let the pump cavitate, hence why then engine won't restart. Hard to do on a system that is also gravity fed (I've never heard of it happening to a bike like ours, but I'm not a bike mechanic, just professionally work on cars).

Moral of the story: read up on how to read the codes, carry a spare key and/or allen wrench to access the connector, replicate the problem/FI light, read the code(s) and form a hypothesis from there.
 
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