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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Just curious who has done it, I don't think I ever have and am not sure what to replace. I don't think I need a full rebuild, but maybe a few little things? Until I get a service manual I might as well ask on here for help and to get some experience. Thanks...

May as well add my rear brakes are almost no existent. Gonna change the pads, have new S/S lines on the way, and going to replace the fluid. But I think the rear master cylinder may be bad..But after only 9 years find it hard to believe. Has anyone ever had to replace or rebuild one??

Also flushing the coolant, any tips?
 

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Depends on what your intend to rebuild within your forks. If your just doing a refresh, oil and seals.
Why do you think you need to rebuild the rear master cylinder? Probably just needs new fluid and It might have some air in the line.
Coolant flush = water pump drain plug
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Depends on what your intend to rebuild within your forks. If your just doing a refresh, oil and seals.
Why do you think you need to rebuild the rear master cylinder? Probably just needs new fluid and It might have some air in the line.
Coolant flush = water pump drain plug

Just the oil and seals, I had a friend that raced and I used to help him its just hard to remember the odd/less often stuff we did. It's a new bike to me so I thought I would ask for any tips, never hurts..I'm not sure on the rear master cylinder yet, was just curious if they did go bad early. I bled it yesterday quite a bit, I have new lines and pads to put on it, along with fluid so hopefully that takes care of it. I'll look for the water pump plug, Thanks.
 

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I take it you have stock forks and springs? Here's something to get you started http://www.bluepoof.com/motorcycles/howto/svs_fork_oil/

a couple of suggestions - when driving in the new seal, use the old seal as a buffer between the PVC tube and the new seal. Works perfectly.

Replace your springs with some Sonic springs that are correct for your weight, and some 15 weight oil. There will never be a better time!

When adding the new oil, don't measure the volume, measure the oil level instead - it is a much more accurate way (what you are actually doing is measuring the air gap at the top of the fork).
 

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Just the oil and seals, I had a friend that raced and I used to help him its just hard to remember the odd/less often stuff we did. It's a new bike to me so I thought I would ask for any tips, never hurts..I'm not sure on the rear master cylinder yet, was just curious if they did go bad early. I bled it yesterday quite a bit, I have new lines and pads to put on it, along with fluid so hopefully that takes care of it. I'll look for the water pump plug, Thanks.
Aside from oil seals, seal retaining clips, dust caps and new oil, the only other parts that might likely need replacement would be the inner and outer bushings (called "slide metal and guide metal" in the parts diagrams).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Explain what you are feeling with the rear brake.
I push the rear pedal and it like there is no fluid in it, but you can see the pad moving a bit. And the rear brake does not stop you at all, even at 5mph. I'm gonna drain the fluid today, and hopefully my new lines will get here soon. i was just more curious if anybody had similar problems. The kid I bought it from didn't take good care of it, for all I now he used vegetable oil to fill the reservoirs. I should fix it myself, but Like I said was curious if anybody had issues with the rear master cylinder. I keep the progress updated.

I take it you have stock forks and springs? Here's something to get you started http://www.bluepoof.com/motorcycles/howto/svs_fork_oil/

a couple of suggestions - when driving in the new seal, use the old seal as a buffer between the PVC tube and the new seal. Works perfectly.

Replace your springs with some Sonic springs that are correct for your weight, and some 15 weight oil. There will never be a better time!

When adding the new oil, don't measure the volume, measure the oil level instead - it is a much more accurate way (what you are actually doing is measuring the air gap at the top of the fork).
That helps, the manuals won't tell you that sort of stuff, thanks! oh, where do you buy the stuff to rebuild them? Ebay, Rocky mt ATV, local store? I'm just trying to get a list and order it all at once if I can.

Aside from oil seals, seal retaining clips, dust caps and new oil, the only other parts that might likely need replacement would be the inner and outer bushings (called "slide metal and guide metal" in the parts diagrams).
ok, I'll keep that in mind too, thanks to all.
 

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I push the rear pedal and it like there is no fluid in it, but you can see the pad moving a bit. And the rear brake does not stop you at all, even at 5mph. I'm gonna drain the fluid today, and hopefully my new lines will get here soon. i was just more curious if anybody had similar problems. The kid I bought it from didn't take good care of it, for all I now he used vegetable oil to fill the reservoirs. I should fix it myself, but Like I said was curious if anybody had issues with the rear master cylinder. I keep the progress updated.
Sounds like a lot of air in the line if the pads are moving. I had problems with mine when I bought it. Bike was sitting for a year or more the piston was frozen in the master. The pedal would still move up and down and I did not realize it was frozen until I took it off the bike and pulled the rubber boot and cir-clip out of the master. I had to beat the master against a piece of wood to free the piston. The master was dry and the rubber on the piston was dry causing it to freeze the first time I pressed the petal. Gave the seal a light coat of fluid and reassembled and bleed. Works great now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sounds like a lot of air in the line if the pads are moving. I had problems with mine when I bought it. Bike was sitting for a year or more the piston was frozen in the master. The pedal would still move up and down and I did not realize it was frozen until I took it off the bike and pulled the rubber boot and cir-clip out of the master. I had to beat the master against a piece of wood to free the piston. The master was dry and the rubber on the piston was dry causing it to freeze the first time I pressed the petal. Gave the seal a light coat of fluid and reassembled and bleed. Works great now.
I'll check it out, this bike had been sitting for some time. I drained the gas and it was brown. Unreal. I'll have to do the same as what you did. It makes sense because when the rear lever goes almost all the way down you can see the clips on the brake pads move just a bit. Thanks.
 

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I bought new dust seals, oil seals, inner and outer bushings at the Suzuki dealer. Adds up pretty fast. But at least if you are doing your own work, there's no labor charge, and you know it's been done right.

The consensus is to use only OEM Suzuki oil seals.

Go to the Sonic Springs website, enter your information to find out what spring rate you need (SV650 bike weight is 420 - 425 lb.), and you can order some 15w oil at the same time. Rich Desmond, the owner, is an SV650 owner, is on this forum, and is incredibly knowledgeable and helpful if you have any questions.
 

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Go to the Sonic Springs website, enter your information to find out what spring rate you need (SV650 bike weight is 420 - 425 lb.), and you can order some 15w oil at the same time. Rich Desmond, the owner, is an SV650 owner, is on this forum, and is incredibly knowledgeable and helpful if you have any questions.

Add a +1 to that! :rock:

The right springs and oil will make a big difference and it would be foolish not to do it if you're taking everything apart anyway.
 

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I'd do springs, oil, oil seals, and the rest I'd think of as optional only if the part looks bad or you have reason to think they might be bad.
Springs and oil from Sonic, and seals from a local dealer, or anywhere that sells oem parts.
If you are feeling ambitious and can afford it, emulators are a big improvement also.
 
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