[HispanicPanic]

I changed my rear wheel and now that i'm putting everything back on, i made sure that my chain was nice and tight, checked specs, good to go.

I was tightening the allen bolt on the other side of the swingarm to make things even, when i realized that there are 2 less notches on the right side of the swingarm. I tried to get everything to line up, but if i loosen the bolt on the right, the endcap of the swingarm falls loose. I tightened it up just enough so it would stay on without wiggling, and i stepped behind my bike.

Either my mind is playing games on me, or my wheel is angled to the right.

I dont get it tho cause if i loosen the right anymore, the endcap comes loose. The left side is tightened to have the chain in perfect spec too....

 

[badguy]

Try measuring the distance from your swingarm pivot to the axle on both sides. If both are the same, you're ok and there's something weird with the adjustment plates. Otherwise, you might need to shorten your chain (or get a bigger rear sprocket.

...I think.

 

[HispanicPanic]

it was fine before i took my wheel off..... although the cain had a tiny amount of slack in it

 

[HispanicPanic]

i just went 20-30 mile per hour around my neighborhood... I'll test it later at 60 or so.

 

[ducman]

Go to sportrider.com/tech and there is an article on how to make sure the rear wheel is in line..you just need a helper and a long piece of string

 

[badguy]

You say it was fine before you took your wheel off, but in the first post you said that you changed your rear wheel...did you mean you changed the rear tire? I guess I assumed that if you put a different wheel on there, it might have been from a different bike with a different sprocket. I should've asked...

Good luck :thumbsup:

 

[HispanicPanic]

yeah sorry, i changed the rear tire.....

I can't seem to find the article your mentioning though...

 

[Harsh]

I am worried about high tight you have the chain. The chain is supposed to have slack in it to accommodate suspension travel. If your chain is too tight it will cause issues. I suggest you download the manual or refer to your owners manual for the proper slack in the chain.

The alignment plates are known not to be even. They will shift a little during tightening of the axle. Use the string method to the pivot point to check alignment.

 

[HispanicPanic]

in order for the plates to be even, i would have to tighten the chain even more, or loosen up the right side which would make the swingarm endcap fall loose.

Can someone explain the string method in detail please?

i also just read somewhere that you're supposed to adjust chain tension while its on the sidestand, not the center stand.

Is this true?

 

[andyauger]

Don't bother with the string method. The front and rear tires aren't the same width, so it won't work. Just measure from the swingarm pivot to the rear axle on both sides of the bike. That's the easiest and most accurate way to tell if you're in line. Riding at 60 is definitely not.

 

[tk1971]

Yeah, the plate adjuster on the right side of my bike is pretty useless and is loose after I align my rear wheel. I just tighten it so it doesn't rattle around after tightening up the rear axle.

tk

 

[Lost1888]

i also just read somewhere that you're supposed to adjust chain tension while its on the sidestand, not the center stand.

Is this true?

Yes per manual-

DRIVE CHAIN
Inspect initially at 1 000 km (600 miles, 1 month) and
every 6 000 km (4 000 miles, 6 months) thereafter .
Clean and lubricate every 1 000 km (600 miles).
Visually check the drive chain for the possible defects listed
below. (Support the motorcycle by a jack and a wooden block,
turn the rear wheel slowly by hand with the transmission shifted
to Neutral .)
•
Loose pins * Excessive wear
•
Damaged rollers * Improper chain adjustment
•
Dry or rusted links * Missing 0-ring seals
•
Kinked or binding links
•
If any defect is found, the drive chain must be replaced .
NOTE:
When replacing the drive chain, replace the drive chain and
sprockets as a set.
CHECKING
•
Remove the axle cotter pin . (For E-03, 28, 33)
•
Loosen the axle nut O.
•
Tense the drive chain fully by turning both chain adjuster nuts
02 .
• Count out 21 pins (20 pitches) on the chain and measure the
distance between the two points . If the distance exceeds the
service limit, the chain must be replaced .
[
Drive chain 20-pitch length
Service limit : 319.4 mm (12.6 in)

ADJUSTING
• Loosen or tighten both chain adjuster nuts) until there is 20
- 30 mm (0.8 - 1 .2 in) of slack at the middle of the chain
between the engine and rear sprockets as shown . The reference
marks OO on both sides of the swingarm and the edge of
each chain adjuster must be aligned to ensure that the front
and rear wheels are correctly aligned .
[
Drive chain slack
Standard : 20 - 30 mm (0.8 - 1 .2 in)
•
Place the motorcycle on its side stand for accurate adjustment.
•
After adjusting the drive chain, tighten the axle nut OO to the
specified torque .
•
Tighten both chain adjuster nuts 1O securely.
0 Rear axle nut : 100 N .m (10 kgf-m, 72.5 Ib-ft)
•
Install a new cotter pin . (For E-03, 28, 33)
•
Recheck the drive chain slack after tightening the axle nut .

 

[Lost1888]

Oops I didn't notice you have a 99. IDK if the the 1 gen is different than 2 gen.

Here a link to download the manual- http://www.sv650.org/sv_manuals.htm

 

[SVstryker]

I threw a brass rod through swingarm pivot point and took a tape measure and measured from the rod to the CENTER of the axle. I tensioned the sprocket side first, allowing maybe 20-25mm of play in the chain, measured chain side then tensioned the brake side until the distance was the same. As mentioned before, don't rely on those hash marks.

By the way, check out the link on my signature. A lot of SV's on that site, regularly we try to have maintenance days when schedules allow us.