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Random Questions for you guys with 3d printers.

I have a Stratysys UPrint SE Plus at work. And the support and model material comes with a little sensor on it that the machine needs in order to load material. I prevents us from buying material from someone other than the local rep.(at high prices).

Does anyone know of a way to by-pass these sensors so I can buy Generic(off amazon, etc) material?
 

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Awesome work Zynex! I'll try print it sometime just to see how it comes out on a Flashforge Creator X (Makerbot copy).

Harley, I dont think you'll have much luck. Stratysys do make good products though from my understanding, so you should be able to get some pretty good prints! And the quality of the materials they use should be top notch.

Seeing as this might be a good place to put this I 3d printed my own tail tidy which I've been using for over half a year now and tested at 200kph and its still going strong :) (printed in PLA)
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1964253

Also this might be handy for lubing chains, I use it with a can of Motul chain lube by feeding the tube into the top and wrap a piece of wire coat hanger around the can and into one of the 2 holes.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1964202
 

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Hmm... We might need to create a thread for 3D Printed Objects...

So cool!
 

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Amazing job on creating these guys! I know a few had questions on pricing in the US for having these printed up. Below is the quote I got from Shapeways.com

That seems a bit pricy. What material is that? ABS or PETG? I made a few tiny adjustments and will post the new files soon.

You might want to check if there is a maker lab or fablab nearby. They should be able to print it for way less. I sold a few sets with nuts, washers and bolts for 25bucks, but i guess shipping to the us will be quite expensive.

(I'm in cali again in june, but that's a long wait haha)
 

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Random Questions for you guys with 3d printers.

I have a Stratysys UPrint SE Plus at work. And the support and model material comes with a little sensor on it that the machine needs in order to load material. I prevents us from buying material from someone other than the local rep.(at high prices).

Does anyone know of a way to by-pass these sensors so I can buy Generic(off amazon, etc) material?
stratasys make quite sophisticated products, so i don't know if it's easy to bypass, but you might want to check out the da vinci hacks. Those printers have a similar system that is pretty easy to bypass.
 

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Yea, the price is a little steep. I've wanted to get a 3D printer, but I feel like I wouldn't use it enough to justify the price of a decent quality setup. As far as waiting, I'm in no rush. If you're up for printing some and shipping them from in the US I'd defiantly be down for set of these.
 

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Just had a set printed last week via 3D Hubs for $18 and change. Natural ABS, 100 micron print thickness. I took pictures along the way and hoping to get a write-up put together this weekend.

Had one issue with the pieces that hold the rear seat tab down, ended up too short and had to improvise. Not sure if design flaw or my K3 living up to its ******* child reputation :dontknow:
 

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Yea, the price is a little steep. I've wanted to get a 3D printer, but I feel like I wouldn't use it enough to justify the price of a decent quality setup. As far as waiting, I'm in no rush. If you're up for printing some and shipping them from in the US I'd defiantly be down for set of these.
There are some really cheap ones that do well enough and have hacks available to make them high-quality printers. I found a couple for sub-300, with lots of info for printing additional parts and what hard parts to replace to make them high-def for just about anything. The main issues had to do with soft steel guide rods that were easy to replace, and printing your own bushings and brackets to improve upon the original parts. (Printing improvements to the printer... What century am I in again?)
 

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Yea, the price is a little steep. I've wanted to get a 3D printer, but I feel like I wouldn't use it enough to justify the price of a decent quality setup. As far as waiting, I'm in no rush. If you're up for printing some and shipping them from in the US I'd defiantly be down for set of these.
I thought the same, but now I use it for everything and I have already repaired many items that otherwise would have been thrown away. (I don't like waste :p)

I just looked it up and shipping for an item between 50-100gram is only 4 euro's with postNL to the us. I think i can get it down to that weight if you get the bolts and nuts yourself. Let me know if you are interested. At the moment I only have black and red filament, but I will buy more at the end of the month. (I'm still in university, so I don't make that much money haha)

Just had a set printed last week via 3D Hubs for $18 and change. Natural ABS, 100 micron print thickness. I took pictures along the way and hoping to get a write-up put together this weekend.

Had one issue with the pieces that hold the rear seat tab down, ended up too short and had to improvise. Not sure if design flaw or my K3 living up to its ******* child reputation :dontknow:
That's cool to hear that more people are printing their own. :) Self production economy is awesome. Let me know if I can help with anything. I don't think the k3 infills are different, but the tail is a little higher... I didn't test them on a K3 myself.

There are some really cheap ones that do well enough and have hacks available to make them high-quality printers. I found a couple for sub-300, with lots of info for printing additional parts and what hard parts to replace to make them high-def for just about anything. The main issues had to do with soft steel guide rods that were easy to replace, and printing your own bushings and brackets to improve upon the original parts. (Printing improvements to the printer... What century am I in again?)
I bought my first 3d printer for 250 dollars and it was crap haha. (they are getting way better) But the awesome thing about it is that you can improve it yourself like you mentioned. I replaced all the bearings, rods and got some improvement parts from thingiverse and now it is a really decent printer. Love this century. ;)

these are the latest files:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/iwca0nto4449zop/AAA8JRNNphh-wFZYp7LJJuPfa?dl=0
 

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Yeah agreed, I knew the tail was higher but didn't think the tail would be affected. I'm processing the pics now, and trying to get my post count up so I can add attachments..
You can just use an image host like tiny pic if you like. I made the slots (instead of holes) in the assembly so you can adjust them a little bit.

Further on, it's never perfect. :( I can be quite perfectionistic too, but without the original ones here it's almost impossible to make a perfect copy. Although i'm quite happy with the result.

Also make sure your printer is calibrated well. I'm pretty active in the 3d printing scene and i see people printing too small and too big more often than printing them right. In some cases this might make the difference between a nice fit and too lose.

edit: you can always contact me if you want me to try to make some adjustments. I still want to try out a 3d scanner to make a better copy, but i haven't found someone to lend me the original ones yet and it's pretty hard to get hold of a good 3d scanner. I recently used a kinect one, but the result just wasn't right. It was okay for making cute little statues, but the measurements were just a little too much off and the surface needed a lot of repair. (which is hard if you are not used to mesh modelling. I'm used to cad modelling)

I know there is a maker hub nearby that can scan it up to a tolerance of 0.01mm and they said it would look good, but the process would take more than 3 hours and they weren't sure about the reflective surface off the original infills.
 

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Agreed on it never being perfect. I was a mechanical engineering major in school, and the FDM we used was far from exceptional :lmao: would be cool to see the result of the 3D scanner for sure.

If my SolidWorks license hadn't expired I would've taken a look at the parts myself but I'm happy with how it came out, definitely accomplishes the intended task.

Here's some pics from my experience with it, starting from when I picked the parts up:



Shots of the initial fit on the bike, note how the two inner pieces don't touch:





This left the gap for the seat tab at about 2", whereas I needed it to be 1-1/2". My solution was to add two 1/4" pieces of wood to tighten up the gap.

Quick coat of paint later:



Showing the gap width



Proposed fix:





And then disaster struck, but luckily I was gluing this area anyways:



Finished pieces and hardware, I used Duplicolor Alabaster Silver Metallic BHA0987 (close to YD8 ):



Finally installed on the bike with some before and after shots:











Overall I'm very happy with it. Huge thanks to The Muffin Man, MEngineer and Zynex for the collaboration.
 

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Agreed on it never being perfect. I was a mechanical engineering major in school, and the FDM we used was far from exceptional :lmao: would be cool to see the result of the 3D scanner for sure.

If my SolidWorks license hadn't expired I would've taken a look at the parts myself but I'm happy with how it came out, definitely accomplishes the intended task.

Here's some pics from my experience with it, starting from when I picked the parts up:



Shots of the initial fit on the bike, note how the two inner pieces don't touch:



This left the gap for the seat tab at about 2", whereas I needed it to be 1-1/2". My solution was to add two 1/4" pieces of wood to tighten up the gap.

Quick coat of paint later:


Overall I'm very happy with it. Huge thanks to The Muffin Man, MEngineer and Zynex for the collaboration.

Awesome write- up. Glad you got them to work!
 

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Firstly, awesome job on the 3D modeling! I knew I should have looked for that first when I was researching grab bar deletes, but somehow it never occurred to me...

Sorry if I missed this somewhere, but, I'm trying to find the 3D print file for the original bracket. I have the external bits for both sides already custom painted, so I need to use those, but I couldn't seem to find any files in this thread that *didn't* include the external pieces. Maybe I'm just reading the STL files wrong?

Or, perhaps I misunderstood, and the split internal bracket can be used as a drop in replacement for the single part OEM one? zynex' post #50 at the bottom of page 5 looks like the most recent files, but I am under the impression that he modded it to fit the outside parts better, and I worry that it won't be compatible with the parts I do have.

Anyone able to help me out, either with updated understandings, or links to a single piece "OEM" bracket?
 

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Firstly, awesome job on the 3D modeling! I knew I should have looked for that first when I was researching grab bar deletes, but somehow it never occurred to me...

Sorry if I missed this somewhere, but, I'm trying to find the 3D print file for the original bracket. I have the external bits for both sides already custom painted, so I need to use those, but I couldn't seem to find any files in this thread that *didn't* include the external pieces. Maybe I'm just reading the STL files wrong?

Or, perhaps I misunderstood, and the split internal bracket can be used as a drop in replacement for the single part OEM one? zynex' post #50 at the bottom of page 5 looks like the most recent files, but I am under the impression that he modded it to fit the outside parts better, and I worry that it won't be compatible with the parts I do have.

Anyone able to help me out, either with updated understandings, or links to a single piece "OEM" bracket?

Just saw you post, but i already replied to your private message. In short: the split part can be used as an oem replacement. (Didn't test this, but in theory it must work) Use the latest files. Those are a little bit stronger. I like to use PETG.
 
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