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It's called a,"Torsion Bar". You should be able to get a spanner/wrench on the back as well as the front e.g you need two wrenches on it if it's the one I'm thinking of :)

PS

Use plenty of rust release on older nuts and bolts and always tighten slightly to break the corrosion/rust seal. Then undo normally. If still hard apply heat.

One of these cheap Butane torch/lighters are really useful to have in the Toolkit,





 

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I did notice the bolt head on the other side and had a closed end wrench on it also but that sucker wasnt moving at all and it was so tight the caliper was.basically frozen in place on that end of the bar...... i mean honestly i was able to get the new pads installed an everything seems to be functioning fine so im.just gonna leave it for now...... but stuff like that bothers me so at some point im gonna get bolt and nut moving and/or replaced.... i appreciate the tips i didnt think about heat and i bet that would have helped quite a bit
It will be fine as-is. The torsion bar is meant to flex with the road and rear S/A so so long as it's kept lubed at the bolt point no worries. Because is uses a partially threaded bolt it's a little like mini axle so not meant to tighten the Torsion bar but lock it in place but allow it a bit of flexing :)

PS

I use ACF50 on most of my fasteners as anti-corrosion treatment but also around once or twice a month do bolts like this and my Gears Lever/Brake lever and bar levers joints/ Chain etc and chain with stuff like this as I'm lazy :)



US $12.99/


This extends the life of the components and means my SV is always slick to use :)
 
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