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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok so the guy that put new tires on my bike brought to my attention that the rear pads were nearly gone..... so i got my new ones in from suzuki today and busted out the wrenches when i got home...... everything went about as smooth as working on a 20 years old motorcycle could go lol...... the caliper was froze at first finally got it moving correctly..... my plan was to remove the caliper completely and work on it however i couldnt get the damn bolt loose that holds the caliper in place that is in the end of the arm type part.....dont know the proper name...... (see attached pic).......so what i did was took the two bolts that hold the caliper on the bracket off and the whole arm was able to swing down enough for me to fiddle with it......... my question is........ what am i doing wrong with the first bolt i tryed to remove...... literally it is frozen.... is there a secret to it or has someone wrenched the damn thing down at some point and screwed me? And also can that being so tight it cant move affect braking in some way? Not sure if there is supposed to be some movement there? The other end of the arm had some play and i was able to move the thing down and work on it so im assuming that end should also move the same way??? Sorry if this is hard to understand
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It's called a,"Torsion Bar". You should be able to get a spanner/wrench on the back as well as the front e.g you need two wrenches on it if it's the one I'm thinking of :)

PS

Use plenty of rust release on older nuts and bolts and always tighten slightly to break the corrosion/rust seal. Then undo normally. If still hard apply heat.

One of these cheap Butane torch/lighters are really useful to have in the Toolkit,





 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I did notice the bolt head on the other side and had a closed end wrench on it also but that sucker wasnt moving at all and it was so tight the caliper was.basically frozen in place on that end of the bar...... i mean honestly i was able to get the new pads installed an everything seems to be functioning fine so im.just gonna leave it for now...... but stuff like that bothers me so at some point im gonna get bolt and nut moving and/or replaced.... i appreciate the tips i didnt think about heat and i bet that would have helped quite a bit
 

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I did notice the bolt head on the other side and had a closed end wrench on it also but that sucker wasnt moving at all and it was so tight the caliper was.basically frozen in place on that end of the bar...... i mean honestly i was able to get the new pads installed an everything seems to be functioning fine so im.just gonna leave it for now...... but stuff like that bothers me so at some point im gonna get bolt and nut moving and/or replaced.... i appreciate the tips i didnt think about heat and i bet that would have helped quite a bit
It will be fine as-is. The torsion bar is meant to flex with the road and rear S/A so so long as it's kept lubed at the bolt point no worries. Because is uses a partially threaded bolt it's a little like mini axle so not meant to tighten the Torsion bar but lock it in place but allow it a bit of flexing :)

PS

I use ACF50 on most of my fasteners as anti-corrosion treatment but also around once or twice a month do bolts like this and my Gears Lever/Brake lever and bar levers joints/ Chain etc and chain with stuff like this as I'm lazy :)



US $12.99/


This extends the life of the components and means my SV is always slick to use :)
 
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