[spotch]

So I got the shifter side lowering plate done on my 01 naked, and now it's on to the drivers side.

I'm working with these...

On the right side there is a tad bit of interference from the metal exhaust tab that bolts to the frame, but I figure if I shave 2-3mm off the top of the tab that problem is solved. Next problem is the spring that activates the brake light when you tap the rear brake.

Looks like I can lower the screw/perch that it hangs on on the bike side, and if that doesn't work I can probably just find a replacement at grainger. Very worst case, I just pull it off and let my front brake activate the light.

The only part I haven't figured out is what to do about the line from the reservoir to the rearset. it seems like it's going to be 1/4 to 1/2 an inch too short (although I haven't pulled the fender off to verify that yet...). In a perfect world, I'd find a way to lower the reservoir (maybe with a bracket attached to the frame?) so that I wouldn't have to swap the line out and bleed the brakes, and then un-do all of this if I want to ever go back to the oem location. Any thoughts? Think the brake line will make it and I'll be alright afterall?

Once I get this part figured out, I swear I'll stop bothering people with these stupid rearset questions lol.

 

[507phantom]

sounds like time to ditch the rear res.

 

[spotch]

sounds like time to ditch the rear res.

I didn't realize that this was an option...? I figured that the rear reservoir is a somewhat essential item...


EDIT: Googled the site and found this:
http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=88469

I guess that's a solution... no one has any problems with the whole 'tube doesn't have a bladder and holds the fluid back' thing?

 

[Northwind]

Nah, like I said in that thread it just works, the amounts of air are so tiny that it's a non-issue except when bleeding- pressure equalises over time through, oh, tiny amounts of air passage past the cap, or osmosis through the tube, or something. The number of airtight things that are genuinely airtight are very slim, even spacesuits outgas, these just... ingas?

The kit I used is HRC- Honda Racing Corporation- and is used on countless race bikes worldwide- moto gp, WSB, 250gp, IOM TT, you name it, all of which will wear the rear pads a lot faster than road use (well, in the hands of a racer that rear brakes anyway). It's a completely tried and tested part, the comments against it are just internet expertism Honda know stuff.

 

[armountainridder]

I lowered my pegs 1" and moved them back 3/4" with no problems, I did have to remove a bracket for hose from the resevoir to cylinder but had enough slack. remove your seat and real cowl and you will see where you can get more slack in the hose

 

[spotch]

I lowered my pegs 1" and moved them back 3/4" with no problems, I did have to remove a bracket for hose from the resevoir to cylinder but had enough slack. remove your seat and real cowl and you will see where you can get more slack in the hose

Awesome, thanks a ton guys.