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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The previous owner installed a Clear Alternatives fender eliminator, which worked fine for the past 3 months, but all of the sudden, the right rear blinker wont activate/blink. When I turn on the right blinker nothing happens in the rear and instead of blinking normally, the blinker indicator in the gauges just illuminates. If you look closely, the gauge indicator kind of blinks very quickly/subtly.

The wiring job the PO did was a mess. Cut wires everywhere/crush connectors/spliced wires with electrical tape. I figured I would solder/heat wrap all the connections I could find and go from there, but there weren't that many connections to fix.

There are 5 wires coming from the tail light: yellow leading to harness, yellow leading to something (resistor?), green, red and black.

One yellow goes to this:
Looks like a resistor to slow the blink of the LEDs, correct?



The other yellow (which I think is the issue) goes to the taillight from this connector:



What is the cut black/white wire on the same side as the yellow wire?

Also, there are these cut wires coming from the main wire bundle:



Cut has one black and one black/white wire, other side (under insulation) is black/white and one green. What is this?

Also, one screw up on my side, I cut both wires leading to whatever light is over the license plate in an attempt to clean up the connections, but they fell from my hands and now I dont know which one should attach to which. Any guidance with this? Wires in question are the white connector and the bare wires:

 

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That's some rough wiring. B/W wires are ground. The integrated signals ground through a common wire in the taillight connector, so only the yellows need to be connected from those, to the stock turn signal locations. The integrated signal wires are the yellow ones. On the one that comes from the taillight and goes directly to the turn signal connector from the harness, there needs to be a resistor wired in for it to flash right, you are correct on that.



Alternatively, you can use an LED flasher relay instead, and eliminate those ugly resistors from the wiring. The wiring for this is different. You'd just connect the yellow wires directly from the tail light to the stock signal harness wires without the resistors in there (still with no B/W ground wires, except the one coming from the tail), and then wire in a new relay in place of the old relay. There are a ton of threads about that if you choose to go that route.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If you have LED flashers all the way around you don't need that resistor. Its only if you have stock signals at one end or the other.
Oh, cool, good to know. There are some aftermarket LED blinkers up front, so I guess I can get rid of that resistor on there. There is no resistor on the connection that is still working and I was wondering why. Makes sense now.

So, sounds like this yellow wire from the fender eliminator (minus the resistor) -



and this



have to be connected. Maybe the connection somehow came apart, but it doesn't look like it at first glance. No bare, twisted wires or other signs of a past connection.

According to a more detailed wiring diagram I found, the right turn signal wire is green which, coincidentally, is the color of the wire in that 'mystery' cut bundle... I'll mess around with that a bit and see what I get.

Still confused what that one resistor is doing in there... Hooray for inheriting previous owner 'handy work'...
 

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The resistor comes with the taillight, its so you dont have different rates of signal blinking after installing the integrated LED taillight. Incandescent and LED run off different power draws, the resistor aids in correcting the discrepancy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The resistor comes with the taillight, its so you dont have different rates of signal blinking after installing the integrated LED taillight. Incandescent and LED run off different power draws, the resistor aids in correcting the discrepancy.
Correct! Haha, yea, I knew that. I wasn't aware, however, that if all the blinkers were LEDs that I could ditch the resistors all together. Makes sense though. Thanks!

Edit - I was saying I was confused because there was only one resistor installed (from what I can tell). Seems like the PO would have installed both or none.
 
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