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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here's my ridiculous chop job on the airbox. Sorry I don't have any photos of work in progress; I didn't think about it until I was part way done.

About a year and a half ago I removed the stock snorkel. Nice, but I was worried about weird stuff getting in there (bugs, rain, etc) and clogging the filter early. So, I put the snorkel back on and cut out 4 squares on the top of the airbox, between the supporting ribs.
I cut them by drilling holes at the intersection of every rib, then hacksawing between the holes, leaving a little extra material on the ribs that I could shave and sand later.



Then I duct taped over them and removed them one by one over the course of a year to get a feel for the differences. About a week ago I cut out 4 more squares, and put in the 1000 snorkel. And lifted the tank lid about 1/4". Whoosh!
I know it's running lean - too lean probably. I'm going to temporarily duct tap back over it this weekend  I'm preparing for a trip to the dyno and a EFI remap, so I'm just getting all my ducks in a row.

650 vs 1000 snorkel. I felt so inadequate.


8 squares cut out. I cut the center 4 first. The outer four I cut last week. These I sanded to make smooth. Applying the heat gun afterwards melted off the little plastic scrapings and smoothed out the sand scratches. I heat-gunned the inner 4 squares after this photo.



After all sanding and heating. The ribs are pretty thin, so the heat gun warped a couple of them a little bit. My bad.


Finished product. Pretty new air filter too. I'm going to need it.



EDIT: Search terms = radical snorklerectomy snorkelectomy snorkel snorkle air airbox intake filter
 

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Thanks for the idea! Let us know if it makes a big difference in power.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
03-SV650RR said:
Thanks for the idea!  Let us know if it makes a big difference in power.
I can answer that now. With 4 holes opened and the stock snorkel - hell yes! BTW, M4 exhaust and 1/2" tank risers as well.

After opening it all the way with 8 holes AND the snorkel, too much. You can't yank the throttle and get good results; have to roll on it a little gentler. I can 'feel' it wants to pull more but doesn't have the gas. Once it gets a good mix I'm sure it will respond tons better.

I'm more worried about overheating right now, so I'm covering them back up in the meantime. After I get to the dyno I'll put up numbers. Couple weeks I think.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
avc8130 said:
And the reason that you have a snorkel on there again is?  Obviously most of your air is going to get drafted in those huge holes!  Also, why bother with the lid at all?  Just go to pod filters and get a remap if you want that much flow.
ac
Good questions. I didn't explain all of my thinking on this, just what I did. Maybe this will clarify what I had in mind....

1. I'm hoping the redirection of air around and up and over the box will help prevent rainwater from getting into the air fiilter, just as it does with the snorkel. I commute on this bike get caught in thunderstorms sometimes. If it doesn't (and I'll find out the first time it rains) I will have to devise something to force the air to change direction quickly so the water hits a solid object somewhere and drains away. I have a few ideas, but I'd rather not do the work up front.

2. As far as pods, I don't trust high-flow filters. I'm NOT 100% positive that a quality foam filter doesn't filter as well as paper, but I am skeptical. Rather than have to worry about it one way or another, I just keep my paper filter clean and replace often; it works fine when it's clean and fully unrestricted. Let's not get into the arguments about that here.

3. I actually am going to get a remap (see above); need to get everything else 100% first, yes?

4. I just like tearing shyt up.
 

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Great write up, with the pics. I am very curious how it all goes. I also use my bike as a commuter and am also equally worried about getting unwanted stuff up in there during a thunderstorm.

Is there a noticeable difference in sound as you removed more of the tape off of the holes?
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Xneos77 said:
Is there a noticeable difference in sound as you removed more of the tape off of the holes?
Oh yes. Very much more noise. The tank may actually resonate, particularly when it's near empty.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
toddpnewton said:
Oh yes. Very much more noise. The tank may actually resonate, particularly when it's near empty.
that`s the same with the k&n filter, not as loud as yours i would assume with all those holes but it`s a lot louder
 

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Wouldn't it had been easier to use an aftermarket filter or would that still be too restrictive?

On the gen1's it's easy enough to just get a BMC open top filter... ;)
 

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I did just a series of holes throughout, and mine sounded like an angry frog at certian RPMs. So I did this.
 

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how about a tight mesh screen, and some panty hose, i know it sounds funny but the screen would keep debris out and the panty hose would keep the water droplets out, i have used it on air filters when going to beat the snot out of a truck in mud and puddles. just a thought
 

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Have you gone to the dyno yet? If you do, please do a dyno with it stock w/pipe, one desnorkeled w/pipe, and one with your radical desnorkling and the pipe.. YOu will get 3-4 pulls anyway so you might as well get A/F curves and see how it effects the bike and do SVRider a huge favor!
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
GaRn said:
Have you gone to the dyno yet? If you do, please do a dyno with it stock w/pipe, one desnorkeled w/pipe, and one with your radical desnorkling and the pipe.. YOu will get 3-4 pulls anyway so you might as well get A/F curves and see how it effects the bike and do SVRider a huge favor!
Not yet. There's some special creations I'm doing for a new and improved 'stockish' airbox, as well as some unanswered questions about the TRE mod, before I drop coin on a remap. For now I have it duct taped to only 4 squares open and it runs great.
 
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