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Discussion Starter #1
I'm finally almost ready for my DIY respray (I've said this about 4 times before, but this time it's TRUE!) and i've got one wee technique question. I'm doing the bike mainly in one colour with heavy stripes painted in another lighter colour (not saying what colours!). Now, what's going to be the best way to do those stripes? I figure there's a few different ways... Both use the same grey primer, and I'll be using the same type of paint for both (lechler BSB Basecoat)

Should I...

spray the stripe colour first, then mask where the stripes are to stay that colour and then overspray with the main colour, or
spray the stripe colour first, then mask the stripes, key in the rest of the paint, reprime those areas then overspray with the main colour or
spray the main colour, then mask and spray the stripes, or
spray the main colour, then mask, key in, reprime and spray the stripes. or
spray the main colour, with the stripe areas masked, then mask the main coat and spray the stripes. (this sounds like a recipe for bad masking alignment!)

Or probably there's a better way I've not thought of...
 

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In my experience with spray painting models (plastic models, not girls), it was easier for me to spray the main color first, mask where you want the stripes and then spray on the stripes. But like I said, I've only spraypainted plastic models, so I could just be talking out of my ass.  :)
 

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Main color first, stripes next, then clear coat to smooth it all out. Pull the masking tape before the paint sets all the way. An alternate way is to mask the primer in the shape of the stripes, spray the main color, mask up to the stripe masking, remove the stripe masking, spray the stripes. The advantage with this method is that you wind up with a flatter surface requiring less clearcoat to smooth the surface out.
 

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use vinyl instead of painting.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
andyauger said:
Main color first, stripes next, then clear coat to smooth it all out.  Pull the masking tape before the paint sets all the way.  An alternate way is to mask the primer in the shape of the stripes, spray the main color, mask up to the stripe masking, remove the stripe masking, spray the stripes.  The advantage with this method is that you wind up with a flatter surface requiring less clearcoat to smooth the surface out.
Cheers Andy. The second method does strike me as technically the best, but it occurs to me that getting a perfect match for the lines would be pretty tricky, and any overlap (or underlap as it were) would be a major ssle to sort out

Nexus, good idea but I'm looking for a very specific colourmatch so vinyl's not really an option.
 

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i kinda think best way is to spray lighter color first with no masking... then mask off stripes and spray darker color... then remove tape do a little wet sanding to get rid of the lines ;)
 
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syntheticton said:
i kinda think best way is to spray lighter color first with no masking... then mask off stripes and spray darker color... then remove tape do a little wet sanding to get rid of the lines ;)
good idea........I just wanted to +1 the wet sanding suggestion
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The product I'm using specifies no wet sanding of the metallics until they've been cleared, though. Hmm. It definately appeals to do the light coloured stripes first then mask them, less masking and probably easier coverage.
 
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Northwind said:
The product I'm using specifies no wet sanding of the metallics until they've been cleared, though. Hmm.
makes sense I'd use as it states, if there is any edges when done clearing you should be able to smooth them out pretty good
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well, all my paint arrived today. All the wrong colour, but it still arrived... So there'll be a wee bit of a holdup. I'm sure I'll have more questions once I actualyl get into the work. Just been doing some test pieces with the rather nice Siegen gun I've picked up, seems an excellent piece of kit. I'd loads of old cellulose spray cans lying around so I drained one of propellant, cut it open and poured it into the gun :)
 

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I've lurked around here long enough, so it is time for a first post.

With one full paint job under my belt , I can honestly say it depends.  Without knowing you colors here are some rules of thumb to follow.

Never spray primer on top of your colors.  Primer is designed to adhere to metal (or other metal prep) and give you a nice surface for your color to adhere to.  Once your have it primed, wet sand it with 600 sandpaper until you have a nice smooth finish.  The better it looks here the better the final paint will look.

Spray lighter colors first, mask them off, then spray dark colors.  Generally dark colors will bleed through lighters ones if dark is sprayed first.  This can be both good and bad.  This is how layered flames are done with candy colored paints.  If you lighter color is opaque enough you may be able to spray it over the dark color.

One thing that might help between colors is a colorless (or pigmentless) base coat.  PPG makes a product called DBC500 this is the base coat paint without any pigment.  This is what I use when spraying pearl coats over base color.

Do not sand directly on pearl or metal flake.  You will dull the effect of these paints if you sand directly on them.  Again as a rule of thumb never sand directly on your color.  (I know there are some paints you need to sand out, but I am referring to base/clear.)

Once you get to the clear, put down a couple of extra coats.  This is to bury your tape lines, and give you something to sand on.  Check with the paint manufacturer how long to wait before "cutting and buffing."  Once that time has elapsed, start with 1000 grit sandpaper, and wet sand the whole surface.  Be carefull around edges, you do not want to cut through the clear and into the base coat.  Next go to 1500, then 2000.  That should give your a nice show shine.  If you cut through the clear coat, all is not lost.  Scuff the entire surface with 600 grit sandpaper, spray more clear, and start over sanding.  Exposed base color can allow water under the clear, which leads to bad things.

With everything sanded out, move to a rubbing compound.  This will polish out the sand scratches.  Next move to a foam pad polish.  This will remove the imperfections and swirl marks left by the rubbing compound.

Sorry for being a little long winded, but I hope this helps.  If it seems like I am focusing on the sanding too much I am.  It really make the final results better.  If your interested here is my first paint job.
http://home.comcast.net/~ericstill/neon5.jpg

Here are the ghost flames:

http://home.comcast.net/~ericstill/neon3.jpg

Eric
soon to be SV owner
 

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estill, nice paint job! Now its time to start your 2nd paint job project... your bike :p

Anyone know how much it cost to get a bike painted? I'd be curious to know what a shop might charge for this type of work.
 

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Northwind, I didn't think that you might not be in the USA. Because emmisions laws are changing at different rates around the world, paint technology is changing at different rates. I looked up Lechler and they have a couple of different lines of paint including water base. Please check with whoever you are purchasing the paint through to get their recommendation for dry times, what sand paper to use, etc.

SO!, Thank you for the compliment. I am picking up my bike in two days. I have no plans to paint it any time soon, but it is coming with an unpainted Givi wind screen. I'm debating between scallops, or flames or... As for how much it costs for a paint job, you'll have to shop around. Somthing to keep in mind while shopping is ask if there is a difference between bringing in the whole bike versus just taking in the pieces to be painted.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yep, I've got the lechler spec sheet, so all that's fine with me- I'm not too concerned about the actual painting process, I've sprayed from rattle can sbefore with decent results- it's just the specifics of doing 2-tone work. Thanks for all the info though, everything helps! The primer I'm using is designed for overspraying on an existing base coat, believe it or not- none of my panels are new, so I've cut through the clear on each of them but not the base. But I don't think that's going to make any real difference in this case...
 
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