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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After my last post, I thought my problem was fixed with the new battery, but as for my luck, it's never this easy. Here's my test result for rectifier and stator.

Diode test for rectifier, I don't know if my multimeter is broken, but result of "1" stays on the screen no matter which lead I test it on.

With bike running idle, rectifier outputs a pitiful 1.2 volts. Testing AC from three lead wires of stator shows about 20 V. Resistance test between the stator wires shows about 0.6 - 0.7 ohms.

I think both rectifier and stator are both fried, and while preparing parts for their replacements, couple questions arise:

1. Where should I get a stator. Ebay has 01 stator < $100, comes as a drop in replacement. But they ARE 7 yrs old. I also notice couple 03+ stator, anyone know if they will fit? Or should I go with after market with something from rick's motorsport like this:
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=21-309&pmc=MDBTdXpTVjY1MA== Aftermarket one probably would need some additional work done like solder it to existing wire.

2. Gasket was broken when removing the stator cover. Is this the right gasket to be used, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=260341579738 ? I have crossed check couple other sites and it seems to be right, but I would feel more confident with a confirmation from this crowd here.

As for rectifier, I just bought a 07 cbr1000rr one(should be here soon), will install it the same time.

Thanks a lot for any help and pointer you can give.


cheers,
Mark
 

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Was the stator unplugged from the r/r and did you rev the motor when doing the ac test on the stator to see if the voltage went up? Do any the stator windings shows any discoloration like they overheated?
 

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You need to have the battery connected (i.e. the regulator output plug connected up) in order to test the output voltage. So I don't think your 1.2V is a valid reading.
Plug it back in and check the output again and post it at both idle and at 5K rpm.
You test the AC output between each pair of the yellow wires
Post the three separate AC voltages individually between the phases off the Stator
1-2
2-3
3-1

Disconnect both the input & output plugs of the Regulator:
As well as reading the resistance betwen the three phases, also measure from any of the three pins to the engine grounding point.
To check the R/R measure between each of the pins of the input, to both the red and then black of the output plug.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Here's some number I have

Measure at battery terminals.
Bike started and idle = ~13.2 volts
RPM @5k - 7krpm = ~12.8

Resistance between stator wires are 0.7ohms

Voltage between three lead wires are all 20 volts at idle, forgot to measure it at 5K rpm.

I think it's a bit too late for measurement now. Stator cover is off, I saw half of the stator with darker color than the other half. And rectifier is already on its way. Appreciate it if you guys can hook me up with source for stator. Ebay for the same 99-02 stator or if 03+ will fit? Or should I go with aftermarket ones?
 

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...
Resistance between stator wires are 0.7ohms

Voltage between three lead wires are all 20 volts at idle, forgot to measure it at 5K rpm.

I think it's a bit too late for measurement now. Stator cover is off, I saw half of the stator with darker color than the other half. ...

Can you post a pic of your stator?
Even if cover is off, can you measure any resistance between one of the output wires and the cover.

Ricks is a quality supplier with good products and excellent customer service.
Recommend you Do NOT buy Electrosport.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Gotta say this first: thank you guys for taking the time for my problem, really appreciate it!

Here's the pictures for resistance reading as well as the stator itself.

Hope I am measuring this right.







All three resistance hover between 0.6 and 0.7 ohms.

And the stator itself.



So how long do I get, doc? :'(

btw, how do you free the stator wires? Prop the tank up then untangle it out of the bundled wires?


thanks,
Mark
 

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Your stator looks fine - a little darker on some coils but seen much worse & still OK. That has only the most minor discoloration, far, far from fried.
You still didn't get that last reading requested, from any of the three pins to the case, Since it's now removed check from any of the three pins to the center core.
It should read 'open' i.e. infinite resistance
I expect it will as it does not appear to have arced or burned.
Re-install it (unless you DO measure low resistance between any of the pins and the core) .
 

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You can just measure it to the metal core in the middle of the stator - that's what it would be short to anyway if a problem(although just looking at the pic, I suspect it's not - that test is usually a precursor to pulling the cover - if you get a short you know you have to pull it) - go ahead & measure it just to be sure.
I'm reasonably confident your stator is probably OK - any problems are usually very obviously visible, unlike the R/R where it's all contained.
 

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Just replace the R/R with the CBR unit before you think about changing the stator. I agree, there probably nothing wrong with it.

And a 2nd gen stator will not work on a gen 1 unless you modify the wiring. The harness connecting the stators are different between the models. But if you have some wire and a soldering iron, there should be no problems making it work.
 

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The definitive test is the AC output voltage should be the same on all three phases.

Re-install it and check the output again and post it at both idle and at 5K rpm.
(leave it disconnected from the R/R)
You test the AC output between each pair of the yellow wires
Post the three separate AC voltages individually between the phases off the Stator
1-2
2-3
3-1

All three should be similar, ~ 25 at idle, ~70V at 5K (but don't get too hung up on the absolute numbers, as long as they are all about the same at whatever engine speed and that they rise as you increase rpm)
 

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we are talking about stator,not RR.
My bad, I was thinking about the '02 stators vs. the 99~01' stators, which have slightly different harnesses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Oh boy, it's fixed. Except one little obstacle with putting back the stator since the gasket I ordered wasn't right(use permatax ultra copper instead), everything else went smoothly. *Scrubbing off old gasket is probably something I don't want to do again*.

2008 CBR 1000rr rectifier(Shindengen FH008EB), happens to have same bolt location as 1st gen SV which makes life easier.. I soldered the wire to use the connectors from sv's rr. At idle, voltage coming off new rr is 15.1vdc, but after connecting output to battery, it only measures 13.6. Later, I probably want to do D'Ecosse's mod to connect extra pair of wire to battery directly.

But 13.6 is still much better than NOTHING from rr. :) Thank you guys for nailing down the charging problem for me. Couples hours spent on this is well worth it, now I can put stator removal/inspection and rectifier replacement on my resume. Thanks again.
 
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