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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Project Black and Blue:

Alright this is going to be a long one. So it all started when a local CRA racer wanted me to make some Marchesini wheels fit his bike. Which just so happen to be at 03 SV, same as mine. After receiving the rims and doing a mock fit up I realized just how nice it looked.

I swear it gave me a halfy just looking at it. So it was the winter and I figured it would be a great time to do some stuff to the bike. Being that I am a bit on the heavier side I knew through the last part of the summer I wanted to do some suspension modifications. I had already gotten a 636 shock from d2cycles. So I was set there. Now the front was up in the air. However about 2 days later I saw a 06 GSXR front end up for sale on Ebay. I couldn’t pass that up.

So now I had this beautiful black front forks and an idea of trying to find another set of Marchesini wheels. Wow that would look pretty sweet except for the silver frame. Well heck I have lots of time it’s Minnesota I won’t be riding till April anyhow. So I decided to tear the bike down and get it powder coated. I found a place right next to my work that said they would do the whole bike for about 300 bucks, sweet. So after I tore the bike down and got that out to powder coated I started work on the Marchesini wheels. I had taken measurements while the frame was still around to import into solidworks. After mocking up the stock wheel in solidworks I then modeled the Marchesini wheel, and swaped it out. With this I was easily able to get the wheel on the center of the bike and come up with spacer sizing and the offset to make the rear rotor end up in the right spot.



So I headed to work after doing the programming in mastercam.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBes6tCT_N0

While this whole thing was going on I was thinking about what to do about the headlight. I really had liked the look of the Buell headlights and flyscreen combo. Only problem was with that big clunky rhino horn of gauge pod. I looked into Veypor , Vaypor, Acewell, and others. However the units from Koso really stood out. The price was a bit high as well. I then noticed that Blair from SV Racing Parts had become a distributor for them. Got to talking with him and gave me a fair deal on it. Enough to pull the trigger, I’ll cover this later. So I got all my parts made for the rear wheel making the front wheel fit MY bike was very easy all it took was one spacer on the one side. Doing the front for my buddies bike was a nightmare. He want to run the stock brake calipers, so he could run two different classes and just swap wheels. I was able to complete this task but that it a whole other story.
Now whole I was working on this other stuff, I wanted to keep my handle bars but make a mount for the Koso gauges and also be able to accept the GSXr forks. This was done by making my own top triple. The original design was a little over the top, way thicker than it needed to be. More for the 3 x SHCS I wanted. I then found out how much aluminum was going to be.

Part of the problem was the mount for the ignition, I had thought I could make it thinner and use spacers to get it to the right spot. Then my evil brain got to thinking about if I could move the ignition. Or get rid of it.. I figured there had to be someone to make some sort of keyless ignition systems for something right. I happened upon Digital Guard Dawg. They make a product that uses and RFID enabled relay. The relay and one “Dawg Tag” was only like 60 bucks. However the way I thought it worked was way different then the way it worked. So back to the drawing board. So by now I got my frame and MISC parts back.

So on to assembly, Had to push all new bearings into the swingarm and the suspension linkage.

Started off by hanging the frame and swingarm with the new shock attached.


Then lowered my engine hoist to pick up the motor.

I also sanded the inside of all the mounting points so that anything bolted down would have a good ground. Here you can see some of the aluminum dust from sanding.

Before I got too much farther I wanted to mount the Koso gauges temp sensor. I did this by drilling and tapping a hole in the thermostat housing. The material is very thin so be carful. I used a small bit of thread tap, then put black RTV silicone around the threads and allowed it to cure. So far it has not leaked.

While all this was going on I had ordered a front fender off of Ebay. It looked o.k. in the pictures but ended up being cracked when I received it. So off to look for something else. Then I saw this, a BLUE carbon fiber weave front fender It looked so hot, next thing you know…


Something else I did, the GSXr front end I purchased had the upper and lower triple. The lower triple had one of the stops broken in half. At work I machined off both stops. I later drilled and taped some holes and made some spacers and screws to act as stops. I also couter-bored the pinch bolts and used SHCS instead of the hex heads. Clean baby, clean.

Here you can see my new stops.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
So at this point I had the frame and motor together the wiring harness back in and started hooking everything up. Right now I just wanted to get everything together and start the bike. Then I would do the gauges then the keyless ignition. Do it in stages that way if I had a problem I could trace down my problem. I got the forks mounted and put on the new front wheel . Here you can see where I mounted the speedometer pick up for the Koso gauges and the CF fender.

With the Fender mounted in the correct postion you can’t even see the speedo pick up.

My original plan for holding all the electronics was to use a plastic box mounted inside a metal bracket.

However there was not enough room for everything and I didn’t have anyplace to mount the turn signals. After a lot of messing around I decided to make my own box. So time to break out the welder and the steel.

I made it so it is hidden behind the flyscreen. It is large enough to hold the keyless ignition the wiring harness for the gauges and the ballast for the HID, did I mention the HID?? Well yeah…

And with blinkers mounted.

So I got that all made up and got the upper triple machined at this time. Time to test fit this crap.

It was at this time in early April when all hell broke loose. We had been doing consistant work at work. Figured I would have lots of time to do home projects, WRONG…
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WrjwaqZfjIY
At work we have been making parts for this, the new mars rover.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UyM1bgKWzng
Suddenly we were working 50+ hours a week, now I am not saying that’s bad. However I also came down with this:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Henoch-Sch%C3%B6nlein_purpura



Now if you read that thing on this basically it goes away on it’s own in 3-4 weeks, as I type this I still have it however it is going away. The symptoms of it were horrible, Arthritis and abdominal pains, nice.

So while dealing with that I forged ahead, finishing up the wiring. To hook up the gauges all the wires just tapped into the stock harness easy as cake, the speedo, well I showed you how I mounted that. The coolant temp just needed the wire ran up to the gauge. The only thing left was the tach and fuel. The tach wire I tried to run to the coil pack but trying to get the wire back on was a pain in the ass. So I just ran the wire all the way back to the ECU and found the same wire and tapped it in. Worked like a charm. I left the stock connector on while I hooked everything up, I did this for two reasons.
1. If I wanted to go back to stock I could
2. Trouble shooting if the bike starts to run weird I can hook the the stock gauge back up to get an error code.

One thing I noticed after getting the tach hooked up was that the stock tach is way off. I started a thread about this so I’ll go over this really quickly. At 3k rpms on the stock tach the Koso would read 2700 rpms, at 6K the Koso measured 5250rpms. The difference would get greater the higher up the rpms got. I confirmed the correct reading using the power commander.
So anyway everything is coming together,

Here you can see the brake rotor mount after it had been anodized

Here is after all the wiring was done. Trying to fit 10lbs of wiring in a 5lbs box.

While putting everything together I used a couple different methods to check the alignment of the chain. One was just to eyeball it but I don’t like doing things half assed. So method two used a laser lever set on a tool box and using a caliper I made the beam parallel to the sprocket face. Then I measured the error at the drive gear.



It was about half of what I thought it was, I was later able to get rid of any error after flipping the new 520 drive gear around it was offset and so flipping it moved it out about another .100 enough to make it right on.


Got some LED bolts to light up the plate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

O.k. so 60 bucks for a aluminum sprocket or 75 for a bi-metal one, wow that’s a no brainer.

I also got a full M4 exhaust. I didn’t really like the look of the full SS system on the bike, my plan had kind of been if it wasn’t black or blue it wasn’t going on the bike. So I took it to work and sandblasted it. I then painted it with VHt temp paint supposed to be 1200 degreees if you follow the directions and heat cure the paint it dosen’t burn off it is a little discolored but still looks good.


Problems I ran into where a few. The keyless relay didn’t work like I had thought, it was meant to look for the tag and then allow the relay to work for about 20 seconds then unlatch, I now learned that they released a keyless ignition system. What I used was an old Basic Stamp and some simple electronics and another relay to allow it to work it took some simple code and a lot of thinking if I were to do it again I would just buy the keyless system they sell. The other thing which I have yet to verify that it works is the low fuel warning light. I found a thread in which someone made an LED work, I wired it up but have been worried so I have not let it come on yet. In wrapping this whole thing up it went from Stock to mild over the winter.. I am sure there are lots of stuff I am leaving out so if you have questions ask away and I’ll try to answer.

Before:

After:
 

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Wow, thats a whole lot of work you did there. Very impressive. Nice job with fabbing up your headlight/gauge bracket, if I didn't know any better I'd think that came from the factory. Great looking bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I thought I saw you when I was running around Rockford last spring or are you in MN now.
Rockford, MN...

Actually Rockford, MN is named after Rockford, IL one of the founders moved from there up here and liked the name...

Need to changed that sorry for the confusion.
 

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that is one heck of a write up....well done:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
 

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Holy. Balls. I'm almost crying - after months of witnessing some 'artistic creations', it's a gift to see someone with skills do it with both halves of his ass.
Thank you, sir. Thank you.
 

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Dude, I just creamed my pants 5 times in 4 seconds.

Amazing job, A+
 

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Wow. Very nice! :eek:

Must be nice being able to use the CNC at work for personal projects!

Would you be willing to share the spacer dimensions and what year and bike the rear wheel was originally for?

I've also been toying with the idea of making my own triples...how did you measure the offset? Also what did you use to cut the slot for the tube clamp? How did you set the part in the machine to cut the bolt hole?
 
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