[SVstryker]

I got my lower fork tubes powdercoated and some of the bolts had some trouble getting into their respective points because the PC shop didn't properly mask & plug the sensitive areas.

The axle had some trouble sliding in, and one of the fender bolts broke inside.

At any rate, the pinch bolt that secures the axle was the worst off. I tried breaking through a couple turns and I just decided not go any further, especially after breaking one bolt in the fork already.

Anyone have any ideas how to get this pinch bolt secured properly without cross threading thru powdercoat or breaking the bolt?

Thanks.

 

[GUN]

I would yell at the shop for not doing it properly and make them do something about it!

I'm guessing that the areas you need to get the bolts through were originally threaded, and now are gummed up with powdercoat? Or were they the holes that the bolt just slides through? I'm just having a hard time visualizing the exact problem. If that is the case, I would take a strong drill bit the exact same size as the bolt and ream the hole through again.


**EDIT**

After going outside to look at my own bike, I see what you are saying now. If you got it threaded a little bit, I would say use a thread tool the same pitch/count as the bolt and manually carefully rethread the hole, on the same track as the original threads.

 

[SVstryker]

Gun, I might give that a shot, but something along maybe a tap?

Trust me, I would take them back to get resprayed again, but I just got the forks rebuilt with springs & emulators----the whole 9 yards.

I would say maybe 2 or 3 threads into the pinch area is where thepowdercoat is.

 

[RichDesmond]

Gun, I might give that a shot, but something along maybe a tap?...

Yeah, just run a tap through it. You don't need to buy a whole set, a 6 x 1.0 and an 8 x 1.25 covers a bunch of the stuff on the bike

 

[Firestick]

+1 on using a tap to clean and re-thread. Trying to force the bolt in will only result in frustration. The tap is hardened and has a cut out along its length.

 

[SVstryker]

ok.

just got back from my suspension shop; he took a thread chaser and cleaned the hole up real nice like.

set me back a 12 pack of beer.

thanks for the input guys.

 

[Jay V]

It's odd that there is THAT much powder in the holes. Enough to make it a bit stiff to install the bolts, but snap them off?

Especially the area where the axle goes through must be masked. Precise masking in an area like that is very time-consuming, but important. The main opening (where the tubes go) should be masked before blasting and coating also.

I always plug holes with high temp plugs, but powder doesn't usually like going in there anyway. Most of the time it can be a real pain to get enough powder inside a small area you WANT covered.

Could blasting media have gotten stuck in the threads in the fender mounting holes?

If it's just powder, a tap (as noted) is the answer.

"The Devil is in the details".


Jay

 

[wacky_woodchuck]

Getting some PC in the bolt holes is normal. No matter how good it is masked or plugged, the PC flows when it is heated and will flow into the bolt holes. As mentioned here, just get a tap and clean up the holes.

When I did all my stuff, it took me close to half a day to clean up every bolt hole on the bike.

And the cheap set of taps from Harbor Freight works just find for this job... I just wouldn't cut new threads with them.

 

[Jay V]

Getting some PC in the bolt holes is normal. No matter how good it is masked or plugged, the PC flows when it is heated and will flow into the bolt holes. As mentioned here, just get a tap and clean up the holes.

When I did all my stuff, it took me close to half a day to clean up every bolt hole on the bike.(SNIP).

You shoudn't have to spend half a day cleaning the holes.

The powder only flows where its applied. Plugging or masking will completely stop powder from getting on the area.

Masking can be a real PITA and time-consuming, and lots of shops that do the work fast and cheap will not take the time to cafefully mask, or mask at all.

Any top custom coater will take pride in their precise masking, but it will cost a little more than the quick/cheap guy. Top quality coating doesn't require you to do any significant "post production" work before assembling your parts.


Jay

 

[Nudist]

Yeah, just run a tap through it. You don't need to buy a whole set, a 6 x 1.0 and an 8 x 1.25 covers a bunch of the stuff on the bike

+1

I hate to see this - that is just careless work by the powdercoater.