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Discussion Starter #1
Going to be doing some tuning this summer and just wondering what to expect

Make sure to include:

Year/Model
Mods
Dyno Make/Model

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Marcos Santiago said:
Kevbo said:
How come no one wants to share their sheets??
Not everybody has them available on line... these are mine from last year. 2002 SV S

HP:
http://www.svrider.com/photoalbums/wm.php?pid=863&mode=fullsize

Torque:
http://www.svrider.com/photoalbums/wm.php?pid=864&mode=fullsize

Have fun with your new bike,

Marcos

PS>> I moved the post to the tech forum...
Alright, thanks

Where did you get your bike dyno'ed in T.O.? I'm going to get Pro6 to tune it when I get my pipes.

Crap, my signature must have reset when the server went down....I've had almost 7,000km worth of fun on my SV this season :D
 

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Kevbo said:
Where did you get your bike dyno'ed in T.O.? I'm going to get Pro6 to tune it when I get my pipes.
I dyno'ed at DPE Racing (unfortunately, they went down last year). It was a good shop.

Each graph has two lines ("before" in blue and "after" in red).
The numbers may vary from dyno to dyno, you have to compare the bike against itself. The blue line is the bike when it was 100% stock. The red line is after jetting, slip-on pipe, and filter.

Marcos
 

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I don't have mine scanned, but I dynoed at 110HP, and 70 FT/LBs Torque, stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
OK, guys, make sure to post your mods too!

When I see an SV650 with close to 90 hp I wanna know what's done to it :shock:
 

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Hindle full system, Airbox mods, ign adv, BMC air filter, 520 15/47 kit, PC3usb + custom map, few other bits and peices....

Will post new graph with 03/02 cams, TRE and busa pistons.
 

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Micron header and midpipe, Scorpion canister
K&N air filter
Parts from DynoJet Jet kit
-3rd Clip on the needles, no shims
-Main jets DJ144

A/F mix 2.5 turns out
Using 17.5 pilot jet




I have since dropped the needles a half step, no testing since then.
 

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I'll send mine as soon as I have some that don't look like crap :) Last time mine went on the dyno the air filter was fouling on the tank :roll:
 

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jetting:
stock = stock
snorkelectomy/stock exhaust = 145 mains, 3 shims, 2 3/4 turns
snork/Renes = 152.5 mains, 2 shims, 2 1/2 turns
 

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Noone elses dyno sheets mean anything for you. Different dynos produce different results. The weather can affect results, as can tire condition and temperature. Current dynos are "spin up" devices that calculate torque based on how quickly the engine can spin up a rotating mass (horsepower is calculated from the torque number and the RPM of the engine as read by the dyno tach. Crank horsepower is calculated based on assumed driveline losses). So, for example, if your tires are a tad cold and maybe not real grippy you will get lower-than-true numbers.

A given engine will exhibit the same horsepower regardless of gearing. The cylinder may spin up faster, but so do the RPMs. Suppose you make two runs, the first with stock gearing, the second with 14/47 sprockets. The torque with the 14/47 sprockets will be higher for a giver RPM but the horsepower numbers will remain the same. Remember that horsepower is a function of torque and RPM.

A single engine dynoed on different days can produce dramatically different results. A single engine on a single dyno can give good information if the weather is taken into account, and then only to compare the effectiveness of changes.

There are more accurate dynos. There are dynos that are attached to water pumps, and there are dynos that are attached to big brakes (Prony brake is one of the earliest types of dynos, still one of the most accurate). This type of dyno can vary the load on an engine until the engine stalls so it gives continuous numbers rather than relying on the mechanical bits spinning up a cylinder.
 

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andyauger said:
Noone elses dyno sheets mean anything for you.  Different dynos produce different results.  The weather can affect results, as can tire condition and temperature.  Current dynos are "spin up" devices that calculate torque based on how quickly the engine can spin up a rotating mass (horsepower is calculated from the torque number and the RPM of the engine as read by the dyno tach.  Crank horsepower is calculated based on assumed driveline losses).  So, for example, if your tires are a tad cold and maybe not real grippy you will get lower-than-true numbers.
No reputable dyno operator will ever let you walk away with a chart impaired by wheelspin, if you were after an "accurate" power read. It should just never happen.

Dyno numbers are smoke and mirrors, but the curves themselves are useful for comparison.
 

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They are useful for comparison on the same bike on the same dyno, maybe. And wheel slip is not wheel spin. All tires slip a bit, especially under hard acceleration. I've seen cars on a chassis dyno pick up 50 HP just by changing the rear tires, and there was no obvious evidence of wheel spin during the runup.
 

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andyauger said:
They are useful for comparison on the same bike on the same dyno, maybe. 
Far more than that. Run the same bike on any 2 dynos and as long as both are functioning correctly and operated correctly, you'll get the same curve. Not exactly the same, but very close, close enough for useful comparison.
 
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