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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone, I'm new to this forum as well as a beginner rider. I picked up a 2001 Suzuki SV650 and it's been treating me well until yesterday. My brother and I put in HID headlights into my bike and the end result is bright lights and now a bike that won't start. We propped the tank up so we could hide the wires and make it look nice, but when we started the bike up after the install it started out fine, but slowly died out and now just wont start. We checked all the fuel lines made sure gasoline was pushing through and we have spark. I'm thinking that when we propped the tank up, sludge drifted through the lines and clogged up the carbs. If anyone can help deduce the problem and maybe show me how to clean the carbs I'd be very appreciative.

Recent development, we got the bike to start up, but now without choke on it is bogging down heavily and will stall itself out after a period of time. When the choke is on, the idle isn't fast enough and stalls out when any throttle is added. Also, the RPM counter is not functioning. Could this actually effect anything besides not knowing your revs? I'm up a creek without a paddle, any help would be useful.

:(
 

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You probably disconnected one of the connectors at the front cylinder coil. The tach gets its signal from the front coil. Are you sure that you are running on both cylinders and getting spark from the front coil? The connector may be still on, but not making full contact. There are two low power connectors on each coil. No tach usually indicates an interruption from the front coil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
We checked the spark plugs and they are firing so I think you are correct in we accidentally disconnected something. Now we just need to find it. Thanks for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
More recent development on the problem. I got the bike to run and sound properly, but it has half the power that it should. I have the throttle wide open in second gear and all SV riders know that's a bad idea, yet I can still easily hold on. Anymore info some one could give me would be great.
 

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Is your tach working again? Sounds like that you are still running on one cylinder. Spray some water on the front header and the rear. You should see a good amount of steam when fully warm and running properly. Did you check the front coil connectors and also whether the plug cap is fully seated on the spark plug? BTW, you should stick to one forum and not double post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Awww yeah, we got my bike back up and running. RMAN you were correct in the fact that I was only running one cylinder. We accidentally disconnected the tachometer, which caused the bike to not understand the throttle so it would stall out. Connected the tachometer and it runs like it used to. Thanks RMAN for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Edit, bike is again not running. We hooked up the tachometer and the bike ran great. My brother test drove it, thumbs up, ran like stock. We let it sit for 30 mins and were going to go for a ride. Start the bike back up and it runs awful. Any type of throttle leads it to cut out, it misfires while it is running, major ignition problems. Haven't been able to check the front spark plug yet, but the back spark plug is firing. I don't understand and we are all out of ideas. Please help, I'm beyond frustrated.
 

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Where did you find the tach disconnected? At the front coil? It's not just about the tach, the signal to fire the front plug would also be compromised resulting in the poor running. Not related to using the throttle. Recheck the connections to the front coil, make sure both connectors fit tight onto the coil connectors. As you say, this is electrical/ignition, not throttle or fueling issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Brother here:

Yeah, the signal was disconnected at the front coil. Both wires had been pulled off. I reconnected them and made sure they were tight. They are definitely tight this time, and still on correctly. While I could check to see if the actual connectors are damaged I don't think that the issue lies within the coils this time.

I need to get to the front spark plug, I have a feeling that running it on one cylinder and dumping fuel all over it for 3 days may have damaged the electrode, until I can get to that spark plug and rule it out I'm not completely sure.

The engine is running on BOTH cylinders, but any throttle at all and the bike misfires and blows big fireballs out of the exhaust. It is definitely a serious timing issue, just need to track down from where. Is it possible that I lost the ignition control unit? I rode the bike after replugging the front coil and it rode great, no issues and solid power. Now absolutely nothing, idles okish but once you give it any air it just turns into a blubbering idiot.

Want to burn the bike down, lol. I'll update this when I get time to look at it more closely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
In the end my title says it all.

After a couple weeks of struggles we finally got my bike running. We changed the spark plugs and replaced the front coil with no change. We then realized that the battery itself wasn't being properly grounded so we ran a doubled up primary wire and grounded that. Then we removed the carburetors to find the idle circuits to be completely closed. I'd read that the SV650 was set to run lean to pass emissions so we pulled the plug out of the idle circuits, cleaned them and then kept them open at about 2 3/4 turns. We used RTV to seal the boots to the cylinder and Vaseline to seal the carbs to them. Hooked everything back up and it runs even better than it did before.

Thanks RMAN for the help and now I know that if the bike can idle, but stalls when any throttle is given. It is due to the carburetors so that'll save me a ton of time if it ever happens again. Hopefully this helps out anyone who had the same problem as I did.
 

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I have a similar issue perhaps.

My bike does not increase in the rpm when the choke is applied at cold (sometimes it does briefly, but not for any sustained period of time)

When the bike is warmed up good, it runs great and idles fine. I haven't had any of the tachometer issues or misfiring. It's just hard to keep it going in the morning. It seems like when I apply the choke it is choking the air, but not adding the additional fuel maybe? I'm thinking that maybe the idler circuit is at fault here too. Also worth noting is that if I add any throttle while choked the rpm decreases and usually kills the motor since its barely idling anyway. Basically the way I've warmed it up is to start it a few times choked (it dies the first couple times) and then start it un-choked and just rev it to keep it on until it warms up a little (halfway down the block and it's fine).

To clear that out do I have to drill and pull the plug and remove the idler jet? Or is there something more specific to the choke that might be clogged up?

Any help is greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have a similar issue perhaps.

My bike does not increase in the rpm when the choke is applied at cold (sometimes it does briefly, but not for any sustained period of time)

When the bike is warmed up good, it runs great and idles fine. I haven't had any of the tachometer issues or misfiring. It's just hard to keep it going in the morning. It seems like when I apply the choke it is choking the air, but not adding the additional fuel maybe? I'm thinking that maybe the idler circuit is at fault here too. Also worth noting is that if I add any throttle while choked the rpm decreases and usually kills the motor since its barely idling anyway. Basically the way I've warmed it up is to start it a few times choked (it dies the first couple times) and then start it un-choked and just rev it to keep it on until it warms up a little (halfway down the block and it's fine).

To clear that out do I have to drill and pull the plug and remove the idler jet? Or is there something more specific to the choke that might be clogged up?

Any help is greatly appreciated.
Yes, you have to drill the plugs out just make sure not to drill to far and mess up the screws. We drilled out the plugs and then counted how many turns it would take to close the circuit (ours were completely closed to begin with) and then unscrewed them completely out. Then we just sprayed carb cleaner through the little port hole and then cleaned off the screws with the same stuff. We then screwed it back in till it was completely closed and then opened it about 2 3/4 turns. I haven't been able to completely test out the ride due to a hole in the radiator, but after this adjustment the bike ran muuch better. Hope this helps. We didn't touch anything with the choke.
 

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I have a similar issue perhaps.

My bike does not increase in the rpm when the choke is applied at cold (sometimes it does briefly, but not for any sustained period of time)

When the bike is warmed up good, it runs great and idles fine. I haven't had any of the tachometer issues or misfiring. It's just hard to keep it going in the morning. It seems like when I apply the choke it is choking the air, but not adding the additional fuel maybe? I'm thinking that maybe the idler circuit is at fault here too. Also worth noting is that if I add any throttle while choked the rpm decreases and usually kills the motor since its barely idling anyway. Basically the way I've warmed it up is to start it a few times choked (it dies the first couple times) and then start it un-choked and just rev it to keep it on until it warms up a little (halfway down the block and it's fine).

To clear that out do I have to drill and pull the plug and remove the idler jet? Or is there something more specific to the choke that might be clogged up?

Any help is greatly appreciated.
The choke actually is a fuel enriched rather than an air "choker." It is misleading as you would think that air is restricted with a "choke" mechanism.

I think you are also confusing two things:

If the bike will idle the pilot jets and circuit should be okay; you would access the main and pilot jets by removing the float bowls after removing the carbs.

The air/fuel screw is accessed originally by drilling out a plug...usually at the same time as installing a jet kit and most people seem to be happy starting at 2.5 turns out from fully closed.
 

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thank Duc, I knew I didn't have it all right. The oldschool chokes had a butterfly flap that would close and let less air in thereby making the mix ratio richer. The SV just has a cable going into the side of the carb.

So if it idles fine after warming up is the mixture screw likely the culprit? Or is it the choke/enricher mechanism? If so, how do I take apart the choke?
 

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I'm no expert on the subject, but I have had to take the carbs apart a few times to get them running right. My problem was always that the bike wouldn't idle so somehow the pilot jets ( and perhaps passages connecting to them ) were occluded. I actually had to send the carbs at one point out to an expert rebuilder to have them completely disassembled and soaked clean.

My limited understanding would think that if the enrichener circuit (choke) is not functioning that I would remove the carbs, disconnect the choke cable, and verify that the o-rings are intact and that when I apply the choke lever that the plungers move freely. After that I would be spraying carb cleaner through the orifices that the choke plungers fit into. At this point the carbs are removed from the bike so I would think the smart thing to do would be to disassemble then and install a rebuild kit if it hasn't been done in a 12 year old bike. Unfortunately, I did all that and still had to send the carbs out because I didn't trust myself to remember how everything went back together again.

I wish I could be of more help.... My latest "trick" for idling problems is to add BG 44k fuel treatment to the tank ....it seems to work better than everyone's old standby of Sea Foam.
 
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