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Discussion Starter #1
I'm about to do my first oil change, please chime in some advise.

> Oil:
is the one sold in walmart castrol motorcycle oil any good?

> Filter:
little research I did shows K&N oil filters to be the best of breed.
Can anyone please help me with the part number?
I read in an old thread the fram part number is PH6018...is it the same?

And any suggestions on where to buy K&N & for how much.

> Crush washer:
Do I need to replace this on the drain plug...if so where do I buy this?

> Oil filter wrench:
Do I need this to get the old filter off the SV...some say just bare hands or even an old leather belt would do?

Thanks in advance!
 

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To remove the filter, you will want a filter wrench. Washer on drain plug is reusable. Use a ratchet and socket to remove, and ensure that ratchet is engaged to "remove" (to turn left) before going under bike. Most common mistake is to "tighten" the bolt, thinking that its turning correctly to come out. Always pre-fill oil filters..never install a filter dry. Hand turn the new filter..avoid over tighting. Also..very important..when removing old filter, ensure that filter gasket came off. If a new filter is installed and old gasket was still on bike, that gasket will eventually blow out resulting in engine oil being lost quickly. Hope that helps.
 

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rotella T !
 

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Put in 2.7 to 2.8 liters of oil.

Buy any filter you like (except FRAM). If you buy an OEM filter get your crush washer from the dealer... or just re-use the old washer. I am still using the same washer and have done countless oil changes.

Any motorcycle specific Dino oil will do. 10w 40. IF your bike is over 3k miles you can switch to a sythetic...ROTELLA is great and the synthetic is 5w40--don't worry it's fine.
 

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I'm about to do my first oil change, please chime in some advise.

> Oil:
is the one sold in walmart castrol motorcycle oil any good?

> Filter:
little research I did shows K&N oil filters to be the best of breed.
Can anyone please help me with the part number?
I read in an old thread the fram part number is PH6018...is it the same?

And any suggestions on where to buy K&N & for how much.

> Crush washer:
Do I need to replace this on the drain plug...if so where do I buy this?

> Oil filter wrench:
Do I need this to get the old filter off the SV...some say just bare hands or even an old leather belt would do?

Thanks in advance!

Oil will be debated till the cows come home. I only run Amsoil Synthetic or the Mobil 1 4T 10w40 available at most Wal Marts but in their little motorcycle/atv section, not with their automotive oils.

K&N Oil Filters are good. I'll never use use Fram again but that's a long story...you can do your own research on that one. K&N's will cost about $15 and can be had from almost any motorcycle dealer or maybe even a Kragen Autoparts. It a K&N 138 that works on the SV. I run a NAPA filter on mine ($12) as they are made by WIX who makes one of the best filters you can get.

Not likely you'll need to replace the crush washer, they go for a long time.

I use a strap wrench to get my filter off 'cuz I have a lower fairing and I can get to it easier. I replace the filter hand tight and then snug it by hand, not the excessive turns that are recommended.
 

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i use oem filters and replace the drain plug gasket every time because they're cheap.

i used the recommended suzuki brand oil for the first three oil changes then i switched
to full synthetic castrol r5.

while your changing the oil take the time to give your bike a good "once-over". visually inspect your coolant level, check drive chain tension, inspect your cables and wires, check your brake fluid level, look at your brake pads, etc. maybe lube your clutch and brake lever pivots and side stand pivot.

and don't forget to give it a bath when you're all done :)
 

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To remove the filter, you will want a filter wrench. Washer on drain plug is reusable. Use a ratchet and socket to remove, and ensure that ratchet is engaged to "remove" (to turn left) before going under bike. Most common mistake is to "tighten" the bolt, thinking that its turning correctly to come out. Always pre-fill oil filters..never install a filter dry. Hand turn the new filter..avoid over tighting. Also..very important..when removing old filter, ensure that filter gasket came off. If a new filter is installed and old gasket was still on bike, that gasket will eventually blow out resulting in engine oil being lost quickly. Hope that helps.
And will coat the next thing that comes along with oil...namely, your rear tire.
 

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Put some oil on the oil filter gasket. Helps with the next removal.

Always change your oil hot.
 

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Rotella T - $5.77 at Walmart
ML16818 - $6.99 at Pep Boys.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Planning to go with Rotella T
But looks like its 15w40 (regular). Is that fine or should I buy some other 10w40 oil?

Not sure if my local Walmart carries Rotella, didn't see it last time.
Other stores I can go to are Pep boys, Autozone, Advance Auto parts, NAPA.
Do any of these guys carry Rotella?

Still torn on which oil filter to buy...as K&N seems most pricey.
 

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i'm not sure why frams have a bad name here, i've always used them on my cars and bike, no problems. from wally world.

i didn't see rotella last time i was there, i went to als/shucks/kragen and got my oil and filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Just checked the autozone website and they seem to carry rotella.
Not sure what filters they have...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Where do you buy K&Noil filter?

What filters does Autozone carry?
(I know Walmart has Fram, Pepboys has Purolator & NAPA has WIX)
 

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You should do some research instead of just spamming the forum with questions. Its a good way to wear out your welcome real quick. i.e. if you're looking to buy K&N filters...go to their website and see where their distributors are based on your zip code.

Just some friendly advice.
 

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Autozone has purolator and fram, IIRC. does it matter?
Autozone may even have the K&N, although Im guessing any autoparts store can special order it for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
thanks guys for your patience in answering my questions...i'm just a little dumb sometimes :)
I will definitely return the favor in some time to other newbies.
 

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Fram works....right up until it doesn't!

Small pleat count, low cartridge surface area, inferior construction of bypass valve, leak back of dirty oil.

Simple...you get $3 bucks worth of filter when you pay $3 bucks.

Spend a few more bucks and get a K&N or at least a WIX from NAPA. More cartridge surface, more pleats, better construction and materials, better filtration.

For you Ford guys, get the Motorcraft filters at Wal Mart rather than the Fram. Their priced relatively comparitively but also better in construction.

Bottom line, if powerplant longevity is not of paramount concern, go cheap.
 

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Bottom line, if powerplant longevity is not of paramount concern, go cheap.
Been using Frams 3693's in the Super Civic for the last 107,000 miles. I love the tread gripper top, wish all the makers would put that on their filters. Makes it some much easier to get them on and off.

I hear people ***** about Fram but most of them have never personally ever had an issue with a Fram filter themselves. And I'm not saying that Fram has never had a bad filter but in the age of the internet where stories spread across the world as fast as you can press enter on the keyboard I have to realy questions if one person posts something bad how many people then repost it in other places that they heard this and with in hours hundreds of people are saying they know it's bad cause they know someone who had a bad one. Days and weeks later thousands are saying the same thing that all started with just one person.

So I pretty much file all those hearsay and friend of a friend stories in the dumpster untill I personally know a person or have seen with my own eyes something that should change my current mind set.
 
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