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Better not spend any time on the 2-strokes boards ... they are infectious!

I will post some nice 380 pics later today.

We will see how well you resist!
 

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GT550s ... but you get the idea:




Here is your black cafe racer ... with Denco chambers if I had to guess:


 

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Oh, its RAM-air cooled. Well, alright, then. ;D
Looks great, actually. It need enough work done that you can very easily make it completely original or completely unique. Have fun!
 

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Cool find! Good luck with the rebuild.

Re: the rusted tank- I've had really good results using the Kreem 3 part kit. As already suggested, remove the tank and pull the petcock. Empty any remnants of old gas and then fill the tank halfway up with hot water strongly spiked with dishwashing detergent. Toss in a few nuts and bolts (keep track of how many) and shake the living heck out of it, concentrating on the lower back end of the tank (where water tends to collect). Dump everything out (make sure you get all of the hardware out) and rinse thoroghly.

Once that's done, use the metal etch/prep from the Kreem kit. This is a phosphoric acid solution- it'll eat away any rust and leaves the bare metal with a thin coat of some sort of iron phosphate- acts like a primer and resists rust. From there it's just a matter of coating the inside of the tank.

Looking forward to how the project progresses.

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Can you link to that Kreem kit? I've seen mention of it before. Depending on the cost, I may just go buy a gallon of muriatic (hydrochloric) acid and clean it that way. Yes, the inside of the tank looks hideous. Smells of lacquer, too. Lots of junk in it!

And there's still some old gas sloshing around in it. Fun.
 

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Hall Monitor
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Couple of choices here:

http://www.instantop.com/CyclePage/Kreem.htm

The three part kit (etchant, dryer, and sealant) generally sells for around $35 and can be found at most decent motorcycle shops. Or you can just buy the sealant ($18 or so) and do the prep yourself.

I had some leftover sealant and wanted to do the whole deal on my niece's EX500 (carbs kept clogging from tank rust). Did the nuts & bolts treatment, then treated the tank with some phosphoric acid from the hardware store (product named "Ospho", really inexpensive and handy to have around anyway). You could hear the rust fizzing...

After letting the phosphoric acid do its thing for about a half hour I rinsed it out with water and then dried the tank with methylethylketone (MEK) also from the hardware store (ran about $6 for a quart). The MEK bonds to any remaining water and evaporates very quickly. EXTREMELY flammable and potentially explosive in the right air/fuel mixture, so apply the usual cautions.

The nice thing about the MEK is that it's also the solvent base for the Kreem tank sealant. The half-bottle I had had thickened considerably despite being tightly sealed. Dumping in a few tablespoons of MEK and shaking it up restored the Kreem to its proper consistency.

As far as the Kreem goes, just dump it in and slosh it around to make sure that all interior surfaces get coated. You'll want to make a block-off plate that bolts into place where the petcock lives, and be really careful to not get the stuff in the gas cap (it'll clog the vent) or on the paint. Be sure that the bottom seams of the tank, and any low spots (particularly toward the back, where water tends to collect) get a good coating. You can return the excess to the bottle, one bottle is usually good for two tanks.

HTH

Bill
 

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Hall Monitor
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Well, you've definitely got a project there...

Re; The boots. If you can't source them from Suzuki or a NOS provider, try digging around the McMaster-Carr catalogue, or better yet just Google "rubber bellows". You may be able to cobble up some replacement parts, just be ready to do some extensive web surfing and gat accurate measurements using a dial caliper.

The good news is that it looks like most of the damage is limited to surface corrosion- note the nice clean threads on the rusty old screw. I'd be tempted to pull the engine as a lump and have it media blasted (like sand blasting but with walnut husks or bits of plastic or other non-damaging abrasive). You will of course have to be extremely careful to seal up any places where grit would create havoc, and protect any exposed seals or precision-machined parts. But in the long run that may be the quickest, easiest, and least expensive way to get rid of all the oxidation on the engine.

Re: finish on aluminum parts you don't want to polish- Not sure how Suzuki did things back in the '70s, but Honda engine cases came from the factory looking like they were silver anodized (at least the parts that weren't polished and clear coated looked like that). What they did was apply a thin coat of silver engine enamel and then overcoated it with clear. I've gotten excellent results in duplicating this by using Dupli-Color engine enamel. They even make a very durable clear coat. The stuff is good to 500F and is fuel proof once it's cured. The clear engine enamel works just great as a clear coat over any polished pieces, too.

Yeah, I've been in your shoes before. ;D

Bill
 

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Bikebandit is showing those boots available at $13.90 ea.
If it were me, I would :
-slap on some chambers and air cleaners
-tune the motor for the aformentioned
-install decent tires and mod the brakes (hp shoes and braided lines)
-install new shocks (Omars) and freshen the forks.
...then spend your spare time demoralizing people with shiny, expensive, large displacement bikes. Make me giddy just thinkin about it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Re: finish on aluminum parts you don't want to polish- Not sure how Suzuki did things back in the '70s, but Honda engine cases came from the factory looking like they were silver anodized (at least the parts that weren't polished and clear coated looked like that). What they did was apply a thin coat of silver engine enamel and then overcoated it with clear. I've gotten excellent results in duplicating this by using Dupli-Color engine enamel. They even make a very durable clear coat. The stuff is good to 500F and is fuel proof once it's cured. The clear engine enamel works just great as a clear coat over any polished pieces, too.

Are you saying I would be better off painting and clear coating? The heads and cooling fins will be painted semi-gloss black; that I've already decided on. Once I know I can get it running, I'll soon after yank them, prep, and paint them.

Polishing the rest of the bits shouldn't be a problem. Time consuming, yes, but not difficult.

Found something else that has to be replaced--both rims. They're rusted so badly that I fear their structural integrity may suffer.
 

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Are you saying I would be better off painting and clear coating?
Depends. I think you're on the right track with your idea to paint the head and cylinder fins black, simply for the reason that they'll shed head better. You'll want to keep the layer of paint as thin as possible (too thick and it'll just act like insulation).

Have a look here:

http://pweb.jps.net/~wjmetz/bobberproject/

If you scroll to the second to the last photo you'll get an idea of what I'm talking about with the silver/clear coat treatment. The case covers are polished and clear coated, while the rest of the cases are painted & clear coated. Except, of course, for the barrels which sport a thin coat of black engine paint. All of which was done with the engine mounted in the frame. Took some time and masking tape but it can be done and look good if you're patient.

Polishing the rest of the bits shouldn't be a problem. Time consuming, yes, but not difficult.
Very true. Then you're faced with the decision whether to clear coat (which knocks down the shininess a fair bit) or spend your weekends polishing to maintain a mirror-like finish.
Found something else that has to be replaced--both rims. They're rusted so badly that I fear their structural integrity may suffer.
Two words: Aluminum rims! Perfect opportunity for one of the preferred, period-correct hot rod mods.

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
That's a beauty of a Honda!

Hmmm...Instead of polishing the whole dang case/covers, I may just instead paint them and then just polish the derby covers. That way, instead of having a "Harley-esque" chrome-gets-you-home look, the shiny bits will be accents instead of mainstays. And I wouldn't have to keep repolishing vasts expanses of aluminum every weekend.

Ah, the possibilities...

(I have this sinking feeling that this bike is going to be another fatal money pit for me...)
 

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I say just run it how it is. It's got a cool 'out of the barn' look to it. It's hard to get that level of grime and oxidation just right.
 

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RD--

Does Denco make pipes for this bike? I've done a fairly extensive search and can't find anything for my GT380. That set you linked from Europe is just too much for my tastes...
I am pretty sure Denco is long gone. However, these and other parts pop up all the time on eBay and on the 2-stroke boards.

http://usa2strokers.com/forum/default.asp


Also, keep an eye on the vintage road race boards.

http://forums.13x.com/forumdisplay.php?forumid=12

http://www.ahrma.org/mart/webmart.htm?

http://www.race-uscra.com/

Check these guys out as well ..

http://www.hvccycle.com/vintagesuzparts.htm

You are gonna have to dig a little deeper for Suzuki 2-stroke stuff then, say, for an RD, buts its all out there...thanks to the internet.

Diligence is the key ...
 

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Can you link to that Kreem kit? I've seen mention of it before.
Yeah I suggested it back on page one :). Bmetz is giving you very good advice. Bikebandit is a good source for older OEM parts. I think you are the right track of getting it running before you put too much cash into.

One suggestion I have is be careful using the cooling fins for leverage (I see where you used them to pry off the carbs). They can bend/break easily on older bikes. And on an air cooled two stroke they are important for proper cooling.

I love old bikes, two smokers especially. I am anxious to see how this project progresses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
What does that mean anyway?! "Ran like a raped ape" If its ashamed of being taken advatage of, it probably won't run at all. It will probably just slink off to its tree somewhere and cry by itself, to embarrased to face the shame of being an 800 primate that just had itself forced upon.

A friend of mine took a sociology class and offered this explanation (as told to him by the professor):

Primates (humans are in this group) are the only species on earth that will commit rape out of anger and domination.

When a young silverback gorilla male is of age, he leaves his group (I forget what you call a group of gorillas pack/gang/pod?) to set out and start his own group.

Well, if he wanders into the territory of another male's, and is found, he is brutally attacked by the alpha male. Occasionally, he even gets raped by that alpha male. When said attack is done, or if he can escape, he "runs like a raped ape."

Sounds feasible to me. Who knows?

:dontknow:
 
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