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Discussion Starter #1
  First off, hello to the board!  Im a long time listener/first time caller :)

  Ive seen lots of good info here and just had to post the results of my first mods.  I just completed shimming the carb needles and drilling out the plugs to adjust the airscrew mixture.  All I can say is WOW!  I can not believe the improvement.  It gave me way better throttle response and much improved low end power.  My 2000 SV will now throttle wheelie in first.  No clutching needed.  Freekin' sweeeet!

  I had been thinking about gearing down because my SV wouldn't pull second gear very well out of slower corners.  Not anymore.  I highly recommend this mod to anyone with a carburated SV650.

  For the uninitiated- airscrews 2 1/2 turns out,shim the needles with two washers from Radio Shack washer bag PN#64-3022.  What are ya' waitin' for!
 

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Weclcome to the board! :)
Glad to hear the carb mods worked well for ya.
 

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dood you could have throttle wheelie'd in first before that mod, thats the only way i know how actually lol

welcome to the board, good to have ya.. ride safe
 

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this is on a stock motor?

got pics?
 

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novakane said:
dood you could have  throttle wheelie'd in first before that mod, thats the only way i know how actually lol

welcome to the board, good to have ya.. ride safe
not neccessarily... I know I have read many people posting about its the way you crack the throttle or you have to rev to certain rpm... close throttle and then whack it wide open but... this doesn't work on all stock SV's. My 01 SVS wouldn't do it... wasn't until I added slipon with new jetting that front would come up without any special trick other than WOT. There are things that affect this from bike to bike... weight for instance of rider I think is one... plus like cars... all stock bikes are not built equal thanks to manufacturing tollerances, plus there is issue of air for given altitude above sea level etc.

drop a tooth on front now with bike running good and see if you notice more wheelies pulling out of tight corners ;) Mine liked to pull front wheel when exiting corners hard in second... scarey at first until you get used to ;)
 
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Discussion Starter #7
  Well I've put 150 miles on with the carb mods and Im still lovin it.  I just cant believe the improvement over stock for $2.11.  Now Im doing my homework on suspension mods looking to improve that too.  Its all there if you use the search function, sweet! 

  First up is fork oil then maybe springs and pre-load caps.  Im leaning towards a 636 or ZX10 shock.  Cost is a factor for me right now so i'll just take it as budget allows.  I do have a quart of 20W Silkolene sitting in the garage now.  I'm gonna try to get to that this weekend.

  novakane- Yeah it would throttle wheelie before but nothing like it does now.  Before the mods wacking it WFO on my 00' naked would get me about 12" of air under the front wheel.  It took the clutch to really get it up to the balance point.  Now if I did that same WFO whack I would need a 12 o'clock bar. 

  tonye- Yes it is a stock motor, or was i guess.  Sorry but I dont have any pics.  The info I used to get started is all in the tips and tricks section of this site.  I can give you a tip on the job though.  You dont have to disconnect the throttle or choke cables.  I did this mod right on the bike like this.  Remove the airbox as described in the directions.  Disconnect the carbs from the intake.  Use the foil to cover openings as directed.  Slide the throttle cables out of the plastic housing where they join up near the carbs.  Lay the carbs over with the float bowls to the left side of the bike and slide a big towel over the frame rails and under the carbs.  You can now perform the mods carefully without disconnecting anything else.  The towel keeps chips off everything and prevents scratches.  Whole job took less than 2 hours and that included a trip to Radio Shack for the shims.

  syntheticton- I think dropping a tooth up front might be a little to much for me.  I like the flexibility of the wide ratios and my low speed 2nd gear corner issues were fixed by this mod.  I might still add 1 tooth to the rear when its replacement time.  That would put my naked on the same gearing as the SVS.  Im not totally ruling the countershaft drop out though.

  donniej-  Desnork and 150s huh.  Hmmm...
 
 
 

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hmm... doesn't naked models come with 45 tooth rear? I think my SVS came with 44 tooth rear from factory so you would need to loose a tooth and not add a tooth to equal SVS. The SVS was meant to be more a canyon carver where the SV was more of a commuter I think so they gave it more snap for quick manuevering.... SVS and SV have different chain lengths too by a couple of links
 
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