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Just did my first oil change after getting my SV. The old filter on the bike was easily removed by hand. I got a K&N-138 and tightened till the gasket touched the engine, then proceeded to give it 2 full turns as per the manual. It feels pretty tight (definitely not turnable by hand) and I was just wondering is it better to be a little tight or a little loose.:rolleyes:
And yes I made sure the old gasket came off with the filter.
 

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WAY too tight...overkill....

It wont hurt anything besides that it will take forever to get back off the bike.

The easiest way to seat the gasket and make it easy to take off afterwards is to hand tighten the filter as much as you possibly can, and then back it off a quarter to a half turn...then the gasket seals properly, wont leak, and it comes off very easy when you need it to.
 

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I generally tighten by hand (one hand) till I can't turn anymore. Then I install a filter can "socket" and use a 3" ratchet to ensure that its snug. I may turn it another 1/4 turn or so (probably less). I use one hand only with the ratchet. Usually removal will require the same reverse procedure and does not require much effort, so I feel confident that I'm not over doing it, and that the filter will not come off. Been doing that for 35 years.

And its critical to ensure that the old gasket is gone, or you will have a failure. And I always prime the new filter.
 

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whenever i change oil filters car or bike i just hand tighten and not to the point i cant turn anymore, just till it starts to get some risistance when turning. the filter will seal and be plenty tight. you might be doing the screwdriver and hammer method to get it back off next change.
 

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Post #4 is the only correct one. The manual says 2 turns after the gasket makes contact. That's the right way to do it.

I'm always astounded that people want to "reinvent the wheel" when the answers can be found in the manual... But some think the Owner's Manual was written by idiots and they themselves are much more intelligent. (Edited to add, this comment is not directed at the OP)

Go figure. :)
 

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Post #4 is the only correct one. The manual says 2 turns after the gasket makes contact. That's the right way to do it.

I'm always astounded that people want to "reinvent the wheel" when the answers can be found in the manual... But some think the Owner's Manual was written by idiots and they themselves are much more intelligent. (Edited to add, this comment is not directed at the OP)

Go figure. :)
i agree with this in theory, but remember the manual assumes you will be using a suzuki filter. after market filters will have gaskets of different thickness and may require different torque values to seal properly.
 

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Usually the filter manufacturer tells you right on the box how much to tighten it doesn't it? I haven't done it yet for the SV650, but every car I've ever changed oil on said something like "once the gasket makes contact, go another 3/4 or 1 full turn" or something like that. The only thing I would be worried about with over tightening is stripping the filter stud, or compressing the gasket so much that you get metal on metal contact.
 

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I just hand tighten, I don't put the gorrilla grip on them or anything, just get them tight. Any sort of wrench is overkill unless you just can't get a good grip on it.

I've been doing oil changes for as long as I can remember and worked at a service station for 2 years doing 40 oil changes a day six days a week...never had one leak unless it was double gasketed so yeah, I think hand tight is plenty...screw what the manual says.
 

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Usually the filter manufacturer tells you right on the box how much to tighten it doesn't it? I haven't done it yet for the SV650, but every car I've ever changed oil on said something like "once the gasket makes contact, go another 3/4 or 1 full turn" or something like that. The only thing I would be worried about with over tightening is stripping the filter stud, or compressing the gasket so much that you get metal on metal contact.
i suspect the original poster asked this question because the k&n oil filters don't have this kind of instruction on them. it's only in metric torque values (maybe to make it seem exotic to the consumer?). my torque wrench doesn't go as low as the value they specify, but i can tell that after one turn my torque wrench was clicking - telling me that i was already way past their spec.

i'd rather go by the manual than peoples' opinions, personally. the fact that someone has done something and never had a problem isn't very convincing to me. the service manual tells exactly how to tighten the oem filter and the k&n tells you the exact torque value (assuming you have the right torque wrench).

rob
 
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