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Keep in mind that many drag racers start up their vehicles as cold as possible, then do a burnout, run them down the strip, and then shut them off. That's "short trip without oil warmed up" to the extreme....
That said, I do think that many people who dragrace or roadrace change their oil way too often....
Keep in mind that the professional dragsters break down and rebuild the engine after every run. Not really an apple to apple comparison IMO.
 

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The color of the oil means nothing as far as suitability for service.

Short runs between start and stop are hard on the oil because water and volatile hydrocarbon blowby don't get "cooked" out of the oil. Short runs are anything where the oil doesn't stay at full operating temperature for 1/2 hour. 45 minutes of running is considered long enough to cook out most water and hydrocarbon blowby.

Additive packages are complex. Short runs tend to use up the buffers because the water and light hydrocarbon products tend to produce acids. Flocculants (additives that cause small particles to clump together into larger particles so they get caught by the filter), detergents, anti-oxidants (lenghthen the life of the oil) get used up also. Once the additive packages are used up the oil could still be fine for use assuming every time you ride you go for at least an hour, and that your rings are in good shape (minimize tiny carbon particle blowby).

Note that synthetic oil producers no longer recommend extended service periods because of problems with additive packages being used up long before the oil itself loses its lubricating properties. The oil could have great viscosity and other properties but be full of acids and dirt.

I can say that I've had my oil tested several times. My rides are rarely shorter than one hour. Using Rotella 15W-40 I am changing at 5,000 miles knowing that the oil is still good to go. Knowing what the additive packages are I can say that Delo and Delvac would be good to 5,000 miles if you ride the same way.
 

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From the 1st gen MOM.
It says that this is for periodic intervals but it can't really be suggesting that oil be changed every 600 miles, can it? I'd be changing oil every weekend.

Edit: Nevermind, that's definitely not a "periodic" maintenance chart at all. Just a chart of the first 5 services.
 

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I don't do the official service timings, I go by a simplified small-small-big, 4000 mile routine, because it's nice and simple to keep track of. The manual recommends between 3500 and 4000 miles anyway so it simplifies matters slightly without ever exceeding the recommendations.

And I use Castrol GPS oil, because it's a pretty colour, and official Suzuki filters because I bought a box of 14 of them a few years ago in a liquidation sale ;D
 

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The manual states.

(ENGINE OIL)
Replace initially at 1 000 km (600 miles, 1 month) and
every 6 000 km (4 000 miles, 6 months) thereafter .
(OIL FILTER)
Replace initially at 1 000 km (600 miles, 1 month) and
every 18 000 km (11 000 miles, 18 months) thereafter .
New 1st gen SV owner and rider here, and I haven't really referred to maintenance schedules before this bike. I really want to take care of this thing.

Looking at the service manual/PM schedule, I was a little confused about whether these are meant to be relative intervals (as you have provided @Lost1888) or absolute odometer readings/ages (as the manual appears to provide, but does not explicitly specify). Thanks for clarifying as I was going to err on the side of caution and do every 600 miles.

55509


@Nexus242, your image at least says that 'Miles' is to be interpreted as an odometer reading, and not an interval per se. Thanks!
 

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every 600 miles is entirely too often. every 2k is what i do for the street bikes even though the manual say every 3500. i'm far from shy with the throttle though...

if you ride super hard (racing, track days, ridiculous time spent at near redline) do more often. i'd do oil every 4 track days or every race weekend.
 

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I like to think of oil change intervals in terms of additive lifespan.

If you do short trips in cold weather, you are going to end up with a lot of unburned fuel and condensation in the oil that isn't going to be burned-off - so your additives will have to work hard to neutralize them and will be depleted quickly.

But if you do long trips in hot weather you will produce much less contaminants and will burn-off from extended running at operating temperature - so your additives last much longer.

I run oil longer in my cars over the summer than in the winter.

Having one oil change interval for everyone isn't very accurate in my opinion, just an overall average that should be adequate.
 

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I use multiples of 6000 miles in my cars and every 3000 in my bike. Oil AND filter. Easy to remember and generally coincides with 30k major service intervals.
 

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I go by the OM. The people who engineered and built this bike know it better than I do. Why would I second guess them?
 

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I go by the OM. The people who engineered and built this bike know it better than I do. Why would I second guess them?
Because they have no idea where you live or how you use their product.

The same exact oil, in the same exact engine, is going to need to be changed at different intervals if you are living in Florida compared to living in Alaska.

They also make mistakes. Ever heard of the oil issues with BMW M-engines?

They don't know everything.
 

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My old Service Advisor used to ask me all the time if I thought I was smarter than the engineers. I would retort, if they were so smart, why am I fixing it right now?
 
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