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From the 1st gen MOM.
 

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To be honest, I was more than a little astonished when I saw the recommendations for oil filter change-out. On my Yamaha's, I always changed the filter every 6,K miles which corresponded to every other oil change.
 

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I change my oil and filter out at least every 1,000 miles. But I have a service contract that came with the bike so it doesn't cost me a dime.
 

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every 1000 miles? really?
 

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Sometimes less lol. Like I said it is free to me, so why not ;D
Because it's wasteful and, quite frankly, probably more harmful to your engine.

Every time a motor is started after an oil change is partially a "dry" start. Much of the oil has been drained out of the lubrication system, and it has to be sucked in and pumped out before the engine is properly lubricated. The thing is, the sucking and pumping doesn't start until after the motor is being cranked, and usually it will start very quickly afterward. In short, after an oil change, the engine is without lubrication for longer than it is when the crank case is full.

Changing your oil less than every 3000 miles (and, arguably, even longer than that) is just plain dumb, unless you hardly ever ride the bike (and are changing based on a time interval rather than mileage) or it gets repeatedly run very hard (dragstrip or track).
 

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<snip>Changing your oil less than every 3000 miles (and, arguably, even longer than that) is just plain dumb, unless you hardly ever ride the bike (and are changing based on a time interval rather than mileage) or it gets repeatedly run very hard (dragstrip or track).
How about daily rides of 90MPH for 100+ miles and in the Tennessee heat ? Looks like coffee after about 400 miles.
 

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Because it's wasteful and, quite frankly, probably more harmful to your engine.

Every time a motor is started after an oil change is partially a "dry" start. Much of the oil has been drained out of the lubrication system, and it has to
have you done something to your engine to magicly keep the oil from draining out of the top of your engine EVERY time you turn it off:rolleyes:

on the other hand, I agree to a point that increase oil change frequency has potential to do unnecessary damage

every time the drain plug is removed, it's one more time you run the risk of accidently stripping the drain bolt, and every time you have the oil filler cap off its one more opportunity to accidently get foreign material into the crank case and again, accidently strip the filler cap too

BUT, I would not increase my maintenance frequency just cause of the time it takes, as it is, every 3500-4000 miles comes every 4-5 weeks for me

any modern oil is good to run the recommended interval or longer, just as important or more important service items like checking adjustments, clutch, clutch cable, throttle cables, cleaning & lubing lever pivot bolts, shift linkage, brake calipers , other movements, checking fasteners are often overlooked at service intervals
 

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unless you hardly ever ride the bike (and are changing based on a time interval rather than mileage) or it gets repeatedly run very hard (dragstrip or track).

what you speak of is not particularly hard on the oil, high engine speeds puts stresses on connecting rods & valves cause of change in direction each revolution of the recoprocating engine

hardest service on oil os lugging the engine and short trips that do not fully warm the oil up to burn of moisture & other contaminates
 

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How about daily rides of 90MPH for 100+ miles and in the Tennessee heat ? Looks like coffee after about 400 miles.
Oil "wears out" when the additives in it are depleted. There's almost no way that happens in 400 miles.

Send in a sample of the oil to be tested at www.blackstone-labs.com. They will tell you exactly how much life is left in the oil, what contaminants are in there, and give you an overall idea of the condition of your engine. Expect to spend $20-$30 for the analysis. It's well worth it.
 

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what you speak of is not particularly hard on the oil, high engine speeds puts stresses on connecting rods & valves cause of change in direction each revolution of the recoprocating engine

hardest service on oil os lugging the engine and short trips that do not fully warm the oil up to burn of moisture & other contaminates
Keep in mind that many drag racers start up their vehicles as cold as possible, then do a burnout, run them down the strip, and then shut them off. That's "short trip without oil warmed up" to the extreme.

Roadracers generally don't give their engines a nice gentle warm-up either, but at least they let it get up to operating temperature while they're running their laps.

That said, I do think that many people who dragrace or roadrace change their oil way too often. I know people who go by the "logic" of using regular dino oil and changing it after every track day or two, somehow thinking that's better than just filling the crankcase with some good synthetic oil and leaving it in there all season.
 

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I change my oil and filter out at least every 1,000 miles. But I have a service contract that came with the bike so it doesn't cost me a dime.
I'm surprised the service contract lets you do that. Usually a service contract doesn't allow the owner to say when the service needs to be done - the manual does. Some service contracts cover brake pads (on BMW it does) but I can't go in every 1000 miles and demand new brake pads unless I manage to wear them out in 1000 miles.
 

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Oil "wears out" when the additives in it are depleted. There's almost no way that happens in 400 miles.
Agreed. It'd have to be the old "non-detergent types we used to see around in the late 70's and 80's. I can't imagine that the additives are the sole determining factor regarding oil integrity.
Send in a sample of the oil to be tested at www.blackstone-labs.com. They will tell you exactly how much life is left in the oil, what contaminants are in there, and give you an overall idea of the condition of your engine. Expect to spend $20-$30 for the analysis. It's well worth it.
Thanks for the referral. I see their pricing is "$22.50 per regular analysis" + $10 for a TBN test ("This is a test used to measure the amount of active additive left in the oil.").

I just dumped in some 15w40 Rotella with plans on dumping it in 1 month/2200 miles and switching to the 5w40 Rotella synth. Might just go ahead and send it in at that time.
 

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I did an oil and filter change at 3600 miles with Rotella 15W-40. I've since reached 5600 and noticed that my oil is pretty dark looking.

I commute daily 10 miles each way through the suburbs and probably stop for a traffic light about every mile on average.

Is 4k still a good interval for this kind of riding?
 

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arent you suppose to be putting in 10W-40 oil in your bikes? i'd go with either mobil or repsol oil. runs nice in the bike :)
 

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I usually change my oil when I "feel" it needs to be done,.. usually through the shifter,... not exceeding the recommended interval,.. usually way under,.

oil filter,.. every other oil change
 
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