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:hello:
 

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glad to see another one coming along!

how you like that drill press btw? i've been meaning to get one, and i see a box in one of your pics, so i gotta ask. :p
 

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Where did you place the jack on the engine block if you don't mind me asking? I need to do the same thing this winter but I'm afraid of cracking the case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I got up under the block near the very front where there is a round buldge near the oil plug (the bottom corner under the oil filter).

Before lifting it up, I lifted the rear onto the race stand and reversed my pegs. That made it easier to drop the pegs onto jack stands for a more long term stay.

The front of the case seems stong enough to raise the bike without issue. Some folks put a piece of wood under there for some added weight distribution. I just lifted it direct with some rubber between the lift and case.

Once on the jack stands, the lift was kept there to prevent the bike from rocking forward with any weight shift as I took my rear wheel off too.

(FYI - More build pics coming this weekend!)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
how you like that drill press btw? i've been meaning to get one, and i see a box in one of your pics, so i gotta ask. :p
The drill press is good, not great since the vertical travel is only about 2 inches or so, but it certainly does the job for most things. It has 5 speeds and a sturdy construction. Paid 65$ on liquidation special, a steal! ;)

**Spoiler alert** I bought it to use in my build since I imported the most bad a$$ exhaust from Japan. It had reducers tack welded in the collector pipes. But a rotary file mounted on that drill took care of some serious welds. For the price, it's a great tool.
 

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Interesting...


Sent from my Motorcycle iPhone app
 

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Resurrecting this thread from the grave, but I noticed that you retained the stock 1st Gen gauges. How did you handle the speedo sensor?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If you are talking about the black naked SV with N gauges; a machined a bracket to hold a hall effect sensor was installed between the fender and the fork, and the OEM speedo sensor wiring was hacked and the wires matched up to provide the pulses to the gauge. This setup worked with 4 evenly spaced rare earth magnets placed in the rotor buttons on the GSXR rotors.

Problem solved. ;)
 

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If you are talking about the black naked SV with N gauges; a machined a bracket to hold a hall effect sensor was installed between the fender and the fork, and the OEM speedo sensor wiring was hacked and the wires matched up to provide the pulses to the gauge. This setup worked with 4 evenly spaced rare earth magnets placed in the rotor buttons on the GSXR rotors.

Problem solved. ;)
Awesome. Thanks for the reply. What was the process for designing the bracket? Did you just draw it out and take it to a machine shop? I've seen some pretty shoddy looking hall effect brackets around and I like your solution on the Naked the best.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
The hall effect sensor bracket was designed by the machinist. He measured the spacing required between fork and rotor. But more importantly, he designed the bracket to allow for some lateral sensor adjustment (closer or farther from the rotor). That way you can fine tune the sensor's "pick-up" range. I'll try to get a picture up soon.

**Edit for pic***



Here you can see the bracket which has the hole drilled and tapped to align with the rotor buttons. It has two stems which bolt on to the main bracket and are used to secure the bracket to the front fender mounts found on the fork lowers. Simple but effective, and hidden under the fender.
 
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