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Discussion Starter #1

Bought this bike used at 25k miles and im loving it coming from a 250. the front sprocket generates an odd noise though that I dont hear on my friends' or any of my dad's bikes. more info on the noise and what conditions cause it are in the description of the video. I have cleaned and lubed the chain and sprockets multiple times to no avail. any insight is appreciated.

description
Noise coming from front sprocket, disappears and rolls quietly when clutch is pulled at any speed, or throttle is closed without clutch pulled.noise immediatly starts up when giving any throttle, ramps up as you climb gears. Bike rides great and this seems to have no effect on performance or power just annoying. I've heard aftermarket sprockets do not have a rubber coating like oem and that produces a noise. I bought the bike used at 25k miles and PO said he just swapped out oem for aftermarket so they are not suzuki sprockets, do you guys think this is what that noise is? Or do I need a new chain + sprockets?
 

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It sounds like either an incorrect aftermarket sprocket or a washer/spacer was left out during installation, allowing the sprocket to float loose on the shaft and make noise under load. It would be understandable to mistake the bottoming of the nut on the countershaft threads for proper assembly to someone unfamiliar with motorcycles. If you do find the sprocket to be floating loose on the shaft, don't ride it until you've downloaded the Service Manual and fully corrected the condition. Even if it doesn't kill you, it'll quickly wear the splines on the countershaft, leading to much costlier repairs. Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ouch that's not what I was hoping for. This is my 2nd motorcycle and I've not done much work on it besides fluid changes, how would u go about checking this? If I'm understanding correctly there should be a washer between the back side of the sprocket and whatever that threads against? Is this something dire enough I should just bring it to a mechanic? I rode 150 miles on it today and probably 1000 since buying it you've definitely got me worried.
 

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As the front-end of a Motorcycle is a priority for rider safety anything you think is wrong should be investigated and fixed.

The first thing I would do is a front brake service and see if something has been left out or wrongly fitted as per other poster.

Apart from a Workshop manual I also Bookmark a Partsfiche of my year/model to aid in the correct installations,



HTH :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
As the front-end of a Motorcycle is a priority for rider safety anything you think is wrong should be investigated and fixed.

The first thing I would do is a front brake service and see if something has been left out or wrongly fitted as per other poster.

Apart from a Workshop manual I also Bookmark a Partsfiche of my year/model to aid in the correct installations,



HTH :)
Thank you for the manual link, but I'm confused on how a front brake service would affect the my front sprocket making noise, I changed my pads when I got the bike and the rotor is in great condition, what am I missing here?
 

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Thank you for the manual link, but I'm confused on how a front brake service would affect the my front sprocket making noise, I changed my pads when I got the bike and the rotor is in great condition, what am I missing here?
The link isn't to a Manual but a Partsfiche. If you use the Forum search option there are downloadable .pdf manuals.

I mentioned the brakes as perhaps something was not fitted right when you did them or perhaps a brake pad is sticking out a bit and not returning and catching the Disc?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The link isn't to a Manual but a Partsfiche. If you use the Forum search option there are downloadable .pdf manuals.

I mentioned the brakes as perhaps something was not fitted right when you did them or perhaps a brake pad is sticking out a bit and not returning and catching the Disc?
are we talkinng about the same part? the noise is coming from the front sprocket which is located by the foot pegs not from the front wheel or brakes
 

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are we talkinng about the same part? the noise is coming from the front sprocket which is located by the foot pegs not from the front wheel or brakes
My mistake :(

Maybe time to have the chain off and check the sprockets and possible a new Chain and Sprocket kit?

If you have a Paddock stand can you manually spin the wheel and see if something is catching?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
My mistake :(

Maybe time to have the chain off and check the sprockets and possible a new Chain and Sprocket kit?

If you have a Paddock stand can you manually spin the wheel and see if something is catching?
I went ahead and ordered a oem kit, the one the PO had on it is like +3-3 or something its really torquey in low gears and tops out at like 110ish mph, im going back to stock. I think im going to take it to a local shop to have them put it on, I dont have a torque wrench or stand or any riveting tools.
 

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I went ahead and ordered a oem kit, the one the PO had on it is like +3-3 or something its really torquey in low gears and tops out at like 110ish mph, im going back to stock. I think im going to take it to a local shop to have them put it on, I dont have a torque wrench or stand or any riveting tools.
Good idea and they should also be able to allay any fears :)

So long as your are not a harsh rider e.g Smooth and you keep the chain clean and correctly tensioned you can get well over 20,000 miles out of a Chain kit :)
 

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Any chance the chain has a frozen link or it's adjusted too tight?

A lot of noise related to chains and sprockets come from not having adequate slack. Better to have too much slack than not enough.
 

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You can investigate whether or not the front sprocket's floating on the shaft by removing the plastic sprocket cover and trying to move the front sprocket laterally by prying near the base of it with a large flat screwdriver. Obviously I can't diagnose your noise without seeing the bike, but from your description, it, along with proper chain adjustment, are the first things I would check.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You can investigate whether or not the front sprocket's floating on the shaft by removing the plastic sprocket cover and trying to move the front sprocket laterally by prying near the base of it with a large flat screwdriver. Obviously I can't diagnose your noise without seeing the bike, but from your description, it, along with proper chain adjustment, are the first things I would check.
Im getting the tiniest bit of movement, almost inperceptible but you can see and hear it in the video, is this too much play? do you see anything wrong with it from the video? thank you for all this advice this is all new for me,

 

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Discussion Starter #14
Any chance the chain has a frozen link or it's adjusted too tight?

A lot of noise related to chains and sprockets come from not having adequate slack. Better to have too much slack than not enough.
I did an adjustment on it when i first got it, it was pretty loose but its within spec now maybe a tiny bit on the loose side, alll the links look good and move freely, and when the bike is coasting its pretty much quiet, sounds like any bike you are pushing along. its only when throttle is applied and load given to the chain that it makes that noise, I didnt capture that very well on the video but at 18 seconds i let off the throttle and the noise stops and at 21 seconds i roll back on and it starts that buzzing again
 

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I can't tell from your video if you are moving the entire drive shaft or the sprocket on the drive shaft. There may be some normal lateral movement of the drive shaft, I don't know. If the sprocket is moving laterally on the shaft though, you have an error in the front sprocket installation, either an incorrect aftermarket part or a missing washer/spacer or a combination of the two. There is a 105 foot/pound torque spec on that nut which is probably the highest torque spec anywhere on the bike. When assembled correctly, all that torque is applied to the sprocket/washer/spacer stack, allowing NO lateral play of the sprocket on the shaft, and there is a bend-over over splined lock washer which sits directly behind the nut that should be hammered against one of the nut flats after proper torque is applied just to make sure it stays put. In my humble workshop where I don't have an impact gun, I use and old aluminum mountain bike handlebar stuck between the rear wheel and the swing arm with the bike on a paddock stand in neutral and a big 1/2" breaker bar to loosen and a 1/2" beam torque wrench to tighten. In any case, this is one of the many assemblies on your motorcycle that MUST be correct. I'm simply working off a hunch, based on the recent work you said was performed by the bike's previous owner. The assembly could be just fine too, no real way of telling from here.

When you take it in to have the new sprocket set installed, ask the mechanic to ride it first and evaluate the sound your are hearing and report back.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I can't tell from your video if you are moving the entire drive shaft or the sprocket on the drive shaft. There may be some normal lateral movement of the drive shaft, I don't know. If the sprocket is moving laterally on the shaft though, you have an error in the front sprocket installation, either an incorrect aftermarket part or a missing washer/spacer or a combination of the two. There is a 105 foot/pound torque spec on that nut which is probably the highest torque spec anywhere on the bike. When assembled correctly, all that torque is applied to the sprocket/washer/spacer stack, allowing NO lateral play of the sprocket on the shaft, and there is a bend-over over splined lock washer which sits directly behind the nut that should be hammered against one of the nut flats after proper torque is applied just to make sure it stays put. In my humble workshop where I don't have an impact gun, I use and old aluminum mountain bike handlebar stuck between the rear wheel and the swing arm with the bike on a paddock stand in neutral and a big 1/2" breaker bar to loosen and a 1/2" beam torque wrench to tighten. In any case, this is one of the many assemblies on your motorcycle that MUST be correct. I'm simply working off a hunch, based on the recent work you said was performed by the bike's previous owner. The assembly could be just fine too, no real way of telling from here.

When you take it in to have the new sprocket set installed, ask the mechanic to ride it first and evaluate the sound your are hearing and report back.
I definitely will, the lock nut is bent properly and the lateral movement is completely in the shaft moving slightly not the sprocket moving on the shaft. I'm wondering if it's just the aftermarket sprocket not having the rubber inserts the suzuki oems have
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I can't tell from your video if you are moving the entire drive shaft or the sprocket on the drive shaft. There may be some normal lateral movement of the drive shaft, I don't know. If the sprocket is moving laterally on the shaft though, you have an error in the front sprocket installation, either an incorrect aftermarket part or a missing washer/spacer or a combination of the two. There is a 105 foot/pound torque spec on that nut which is probably the highest torque spec anywhere on the bike. When assembled correctly, all that torque is applied to the sprocket/washer/spacer stack, allowing NO lateral play of the sprocket on the shaft, and there is a bend-over over splined lock washer which sits directly behind the nut that should be hammered against one of the nut flats after proper torque is applied just to make sure it stays put. In my humble workshop where I don't have an impact gun, I use and old aluminum mountain bike handlebar stuck between the rear wheel and the swing arm with the bike on a paddock stand in neutral and a big 1/2" breaker bar to loosen and a 1/2" beam torque wrench to tighten. In any case, this is one of the many assemblies on your motorcycle that MUST be correct. I'm simply working off a hunch, based on the recent work you said was performed by the bike's previous owner. The assembly could be just fine too, no real way of telling from here.

When you take it in to have the new sprocket set installed, ask the mechanic to ride it first and evaluate the sound your are hearing and report back.
Just got back from the shop, so the mechanic wasnt sure what the sound was, but he said he suspected it was the lack of the oem rubber insert. He said that without me bringing it up. He went ahead and put on the new chain and oem sprockets and the buzzing sound is gone. I had him check out the splines and he said they looked fine. So im chalking it up to the lack of that oem rubber insert, which oddly enough was 2 extra dollars on sprocket center. Also just a side note the PO had a wierd sprocket setup, I was normally at like 6500rpms to cruise at 60 and with the oem sprockets im not even at 5k at 60. thanks for all your advice happy riding!
 

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Just got back from the shop, so the mechanic wasnt sure what the sound was, but he said he suspected it was the lack of the oem rubber insert. He said that without me bringing it up. He went ahead and put on the new chain and oem sprockets and the buzzing sound is gone. I had him check out the splines and he said they looked fine. So im chalking it up to the lack of that oem rubber insert, which oddly enough was 2 extra dollars on sprocket center. Also just a side note the PO had a wierd sprocket setup, I was normally at like 6500rpms to cruise at 60 and with the oem sprockets im not even at 5k at 60. thanks for all your advice happy riding!
Thanks for posting back. Glad it was a simple fix. Nice to have a new Chain and Sprocket kit when you get a new-to-you Motorcycle as it's a good service point to start from. Check the age of the tires so you know where you are with them,


 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks for posting back. Glad it was a simple fix. Nice to have a new Chain and Sprocket kit when you get a new-to-you Motorcycle as it's a good service point to start from. Check the age of the tires so you know where you are with them,


already ahead of you! put brand new Dunlop roadsmart 2s on it a couple weeks ago, got the bike at 26k miles im at 28k now and Ive done oil, coolant flush, brake fluids flush, all new pads, new sprocket and chain, new tires, acf50 wipedown, new levers, new mirrors(one had a piece missing from the glass) and fwiw even though its not maintenance I swapped the aftermarket bars for some clubmans which Im loving. also bought some colorrite yec paint and repainted the road rashed plastics after jb welding the cracks from the inside. Really happy with this bike coming from a 250 and its come a long way since I got it.
 

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already ahead of you! put brand new Dunlop roadsmart 2s on it a couple weeks ago, got the bike at 26k miles im at 28k now and Ive done oil, coolant flush, brake fluids flush, all new pads, new sprocket and chain, new tires, acf50 wipedown, new levers, new mirrors(one had a piece missing from the glass) and fwiw even though its not maintenance I swapped the aftermarket bars for some clubmans which Im loving. also bought some colorrite yec paint and repainted the road rashed plastics after jb welding the cracks from the inside. Really happy with this bike coming from a 250 and its come a long way since I got it.
Nice. I'm in the process of giving my best Bud's SV650s K2 a full service. When I do one I pull apart every electrical block connector and check for corrosion(Often overlooked maintenance but just as important) and spray with Switch Cleaner,let evaporate and then ACF50 inside and outside the block. I also put a drop of ACF50 into all the Bulb holders after taking the bulbs out of course. I remove the rear seat cowling(Don't forget the two JIS screws under the Rear back of the cowling) and do all the rear ones as well. I also do the Fuse holders/sockets.

I've changed my Stop/Brake bulbs for Red LED 1156 type so don't have to worry about them blowing plus they use less current.

I'm semi-retired from the Aircraft industry so know the full benefits of ACF50 :)
 
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