Finally got up the nerve to shim the valves on my 07 SV a couple weeks back. Bike has 48k on it and all 8 vavles were right at the minimum. I read up on it and took a slow studied approach. It was a major undertaking, but nonetheless went pretty well in the end. Bike fired right up and ran strong with no noticeably oil leaks upon completion. Compared to my 01 SV the 07 always seemed to have more engine noise, pacifically valve train noise. After shim job seems like even more valve chain noise than I remember. A stethoscope thing quickly revealed that virtually all the cam chain noise was coming from the front cylinder. I had some difficulty getting the rear cylinder CCT bolt that pushes the spring against the ratchet plunger started because of an awkward working position and because it was already pushing against the spring a bit before engaging the threads. However, I had no trouble at all screwing in the same bolt on the front cylinder with my fingers. I ordered a new spring from Ron Ayers, and with that in hand, I pulled the tank, air box, and front CCT yesterday. Right off I noticed that the plunger was pushed out further that the rear one had been. Old spring turns out to be exactly like the new one; well, maybe .020 shorter. There's been discussion about “lazy” CCTs on (Brit?) SV forums. Some say just ignore it. Others have gone to aftermarket manual adjusters (with the warning that if you get it too tight you'll ruin your engine). I like the design of the ratcheting CCT and am inclined to stick with it, only with a bit of modification. I'm thinking about making a stud with a collar on my old Logan lathe that would slip fit up into the spring about a ½ inch on one end and out over the end of spring 1/8 to ¼ inch on the other, thus extending the spring out a bit more, perhaps with some by feel adjustment when screwing in the retaining bolt. Suggestions and comments most welcome.