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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I've been trying to diagnose a no-start on my '03 SV650S for the last couple weeks with no luck. Thread of current work done to it is in my signature for reference. Ran great a week before this when I rode it last.

I turn the key on, kill switch on, and nothing. No fuel pump priming, no STV startup dance, nada. The bike cranks, so the safety switches seem to be functioning correctly (sidestand, clutch, tipover). Checked all the connections and fuses, all seemed to be in order. Swapped the fuel pump relay from my other SV650, with no change. Took the air filter off and sprayed some starter fluid in the TB's and cranked over, with no pops or bangs (so no spark). I'd read that some modern bike electronics are finnicky with battery voltage, so I charged the battery with no improvement.

I took the dash off for the time being and have been using my phone as a speedo (more on that in a minute), and when I connect it and turn the bike on, it does it's little startup dance (tach goes up to 7k, holds for a sec, then drops to 0) and I get CHEC on the odometer. So I go to read the code, and it won't go into dealer mode. I thought maybe there was just corrosion in the plug, so I jiggled my jumper around a bit, with no change. Using my multimeter verifies continuity through the correct dealer mode plug connections, with a decrease in ohm reading when the bike is turned on. But still won't go into dealer mode.

So I've been shopping for a speedo/tach that I like, and decided that I've been vaguely interested in learning about arduino for a while anyway, so I'm going to make an arduino dash for my bike. I bought a KOSO plug adapter (SV650 Adaptor kit - Koso North America) with the plan to just wire into the necessary wires from that and not have to hack into my wiring harness. In an effort to move in that direction, I used a multimeter to probe the gauge plug and the wires coming off the KOSO adapter to determine which wires went where and did what.

I thought that maybe by doing this, I could have shorted something in the ECU which caused the fuel pump/STV/spark failure. So I bought a new ECU, but plugging it in has given no improvement. It still cranks, but I get no fuel pump or STV action.

Anyone have any idea what else I should try to chase to get my bike running again? Does the tipover sensor cause the bike to not crank like the other safety sensors, or does it work differently and has maybe gone bad? What else should I check? Or does one of the other safety switches cause the fuel pump/STV to not run, instead of the bike to not crank?
 

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...I get CHEC on the odometer.
... won't go into dealer mode.
It could be the Tip Over Sensor (TOS) C23, or could be Ignition Switch failure C41, could be a failed side-stand relay or any other condition preventing the ECM from getting power.

"CHEC" in the gauge means the data signal from the ECM is not being sent to the gauges. This is normal any time the Run/Stop is set to Stop, or if the bike is in gear with the sidestand down. Both conditions kill power to the ECM.

Double check the Run/Stop switch, put the bike in Neutral, see if "CHEC" goes away.

Once "CHEC" is gone, put the bike in Dealer Mode, get the FI code(s).

Post again if you can not make "CHEC" go away.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'll try all those things again. I tried to start in both 1 and N, putting the sidestand up and down in both, kill switch on and and off, clutch pulled in and not, and all combinations. I had to cut and solder the sidestand switch during reassembly of the bike, so I'll double check that connection, but it didn't appear to have any bearing on the no-start condition.

I wasn't able to get CHEC to go away, and I wasn't able to get the STV and fuel pump to do their startup routine in any combination. But again, I'll try again, hopefully tomorrow when I have a little bit of time.
 

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Assuming all your wiring is intact, the kill switch feeds power to the starter switch, the coil side of the fuel relay, the ignition coils, and the ECU, soooooo...if you have crank, you should have power at all those things, but I would check the orange/white wire coming out of the right handlebar switch for power when the kill switch is flipped on. Since the starter button is fed internally from the kill switch, it's possible to have a good connection to the starter but not to the orange/white wire.
 

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... if you have crank, you should have power at all those things, but I would check the orange/white wire coming out of the right handlebar switch for power
^^^ What GC said.

An easy way to check for 12v on O/W is back-probe the fuel pump relay. That will also verify the O/W wire from the R.H. handlebar switch down close to the ECM. You will see "CHEC" if O/W at the ECM is dead.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Replaced the tipover sensor with the one from my other SV, with no improvement. The other bike starts and runs perfectly with the old TOS so that eliminates that.

I probed the O/W wire at the fuel pump relay. With the kill switch off, I get nothing (as expected). With the kill switch to On, I get 12.6V. I know the fuel pump relay is good because I swapped it out with the other SV, and both relays worked perfectly in it before and after the switch.

I unplugged and probed the fuel pump plug. I get no voltage at any of the pins there, in any configuration of kill and safety switches.

I visually inspected the sidestand switch wiring I had soldered, and it appears to be intact. I was juggling the tank and multimeter (didn't have my prop rod handy) so I didn't unplug and check continuity there, but I will next time I'm able to investigate.

What should I check next? Does this indicate a problem with the wiring between the pump relay and the pump? Or does it detour through the ECU for control?
 

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The ecu controls the ground side of the coil on the fuel pump relay so if the ecu is dead or not powered up, it won't turn on the fuel pump relay.

I would unplug the ecu and make sure there's power and ground on the wires where there should be power or ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Mkay. I tested the fuel pump relay across the O/W wire and the battery neg terminal because it was handy with the seat off. I'll try again across the fuel pump relay ground, and I'll look into power/ground for the ECU. I'll check out the repair manual to see which pins to check. The ECU is a new (to me) unit and when I swapped it in there was no improvement so I'm inclined to think the issue lies outside the ECU (wiring, grounding issue, etc).
 

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... it appears the Orange/Red wire comes from the key to the ECU to power it (signal it?) and Black/White is ground.
No. O/R comes from the key to the ECM but is the anti-theft signal, not power. O/R should measure roughly 5v if the AT circuit is alive.

Main 12v power to the ECM is O/W. ECM ground is B/W, as Mad8 said.

Focus solely on making "CHEC" go away. The most likely reason for "CHEC" is no power on O/W.

"CHEC" means the ECM is not sending data to the gauge. As GC said, a dead ECM also explains no fuel pump prime, no spark, no Dealer Mode.

Focus on "CHEC".
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Reading the sidestand/interlock and ignition system sections of the repair manual (pages 8-20 to 8-24), I see that the sidestand switch relay is located in the same unit as the turn signal relay. Didn't realize that was a thing. I recently replaced mine to run the LED signals I have (can't remember if it was before or after the no-start issue, tbh). I'll check that while I'm at it.
 

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Reading the sidestand/interlock and ignition system sections of the repair manual (pages 8-20 to 8-24), I see that the sidestand switch relay is located in the same unit as the turn signal relay. Didn't realize that was a thing. I recently replaced mine to run the LED signals I have (can't remember if it was before or after the no-start issue, tbh). I'll check that while I'm at it.
Don't bother if it cranks. It works.
 

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^^^ Right. It can not be the side-stand really if the bike cranks.

... I probed the O/W wire at the fuel pump relay. With the kill switch off, I get nothing (as expected). With the kill switch to On, I get 12.6V.
12.6v on O/W at the fuel pump relay is good. And unless there is a break in the wire - rare - that means O/W at the ECM is probably good too. Be sure to double check though.

It would have been good if O/W were dead, that would be easy to track down. If O/W is good at the ECM, then the obvious problems are out, will then need to dig further.

Did this bike ever have an alarm system installed?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Realized after I posted about the sidestand relay that it didn't change anything since it already cranks. Just trying to put as much info out as I can find to hopefully help someone having a similar issue in the future. Too often I'll find a forum thread with no solution or followup from the original poster.

I'm not aware that this bike ever had an alarm system on it. I didn't find any evidence of one when I reassembled it last summer. And up until a couple of weeks ago it ran perfectly.
 

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Is "CHEC" still displayed in the gauge?
If you poke through the insulation on the O/W wire at the ECM do you see 12v?

... Too often I'll find a forum thread with no solution or followup from the original poster.
It is always great when folks follow up and post the final solution, and disappointing when that does not happen.

btw, as soon as I saw your post, I remembered you were the one who had the transmission problem and not only posted the solution but also posted an excellent video of how you did the repair. (y)(y)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well..... Let all of SVRider know..... that I'm apparently bad at checking fuses and like to waste the forum's time chasing dragons. Went to mess with the bike a bit this morning after work. I kept thinking I had to be missing something incredibly basic and was thinking zebras from hearing hoofbeats, so I checked the basics again. And this was in the fuel pump fuse slot.

54220


I'd checked the fuse box multiple times, both visually and with a multimeter across the sides of every fuse, and had even shuffled the fuses around to different locations of the same amperage. Apparently I missed this guy somehow. Or maybe it blew at some point and I've got a different issue, who the hell knows?

At any rate, the fuel pump works properly after this was swapped for a good fuse, the bike cranks and starts, and revs without issue. CHEC leaves the dash after it starts up.

Had a couple beers after work this morning messing with it (my last night shift before moving back to day shift next week... don't judge), so I'll test ride it later today after I sleep for a bit.

Thanks, as always, for the forum's help. Now we have a record of my dumbassery. Haha. I'm sure I'll laugh about it later.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
That I did. I was fortunate to have a second SV650 to swap parts between for some trial and error. Now.... On to making the arduino gauge cluster that I thought started this whole mess to begin with....
 
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