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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Story time! Three blokes from Florida who met working at Digital Domain made friends when they found out each was a Suzuki rider - Katana 600, Ninja 600, and SV650. Shortly thereafter, we got kind of ****** (company went bankrupt). Before we parted ways (Cali, Vancouver, wherever) we went on one last cruise along the river.

Unfortunately, my bike (2002 SV) decided to stall at a red light. I couldn't get the bike to fire back up with the push-button ignition - it was straining to turn over. I figured the battery must have died and perhaps my alternator wasn't charging the battery as it should. I pulled over, and between myself and Mr. Ninja 600 we managed to push start the SV650 and I successfully rode home.

Upon inspection the next day, I still couldn't turn the bike on with the push-button. The battery strained to turn the bike over a couple of times. Instead of doing the intelligent thing and inspecting, testing and then charging the battery, I decided I wanted to see if I could push-start it alone. I managed to push-start the bike with minimal effort, and then took it for a short spin around the block. I didn't make it very far when I noticed the tachometer needle had started to flail around violently. Mere moments after I noticed this, I heard a loud backfire and the bike died in motion. Again, flabbergasted and likely out of wit from the stress of unemployment, I tried to push start the bike. Time and time again, I failed. I walked my bike home in great shame.

As my head had fallen from the clouds, a whisper of mechanical wisdom echoed through my mind - "Check the battery, you ******* tool."




The battery was an absolute pain to remove. What the hell had happened here? I can only postulate that rapid heating and cooling caused the battery's walls to collapse inward due to a change in pressure.

Thankfully, I had purchased this battery less than a month (or two) ago. The warranty was honoured and I received a new battery of a different brand (Interstate FAYTX9).

I swapped the battery out, crossed my fingers and attempted to start my motorcycle:



Hah, ha, ha. Life isn't ever that easy. With the new battery, the push-button ignition turned the bike over a few times, but it never fired. This was unfortunate for two reasons:

  1. Limited resources ($$, tools)
  2. Limited time (two weeks till end of lease)

I decided to get cracking. I knew I would need to check for spark. As I hadn't replaced them during my ownership, I researched and purchased a couple of replacement spark plugs (NGK CR8E) from the local Autozone in addition to the 5/8th driver needed to pull 'em out.



Eliminating the bike's feeble battery from the equation, I directly connected my car battery to the bike's positive and negative leads via jumper cables. I was able to turn the bike over with ease.

I was not able to find spark at either cylinder, even with the new spark plugs.

It's time to call out the big guns - the brains of forum members here!

I need to know more about the following:

  1. Testing ignition system
  2. Locating/testing/replacing R/R

I have managed to find the original service manual PDF and suppose the next step will involve a multimeter.

Anyone care to comment? I'm not sure if the R/R could cause these symptoms or if I will need to replace the coil and plug wires.

Any advice would be appreicated.

Oh yeah, the Impreza threw a check engine light too. When it rains, it pours.
- Rex
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
After a little additional reading, I'm willing to hazard a guess:

The "regulator" portion of my R/R malfunctioned, failing to regulate DC voltage. This could cause my tachometer to freak-out, and perhaps this also fatally damaged the ignition coils.

I don't know enough about the bike's electrical system to know how ignition timing was handled. If there's a timer circuit somewhere, it might be bad too.

Is this a reasonable guess?
 

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Since you have the manual you can at least test the coils for their primary and secondary resistances. Looking at your battery, I would agree that your R/R malfunctioned, but I don't think the problem is with your coils. There is a signal or pulse generator coil located behind the left side engine cover next to the stator. It sends pulses to the CDI ignitor box located above your taillight which in turn using a 8 bit processor, sends signals to the coils to fire. It's quite possible that the R/R not only cooked your battery but also fried your ignitor as well. Use the manual with the multimeter to check the coils. Locate the R/R behind the right side rear body panel. It's behind the panel on the other side of the subframe rail across from the neg. battery terminal. Check the connectors on the R/R for burning as well. You have to start somewhere, so read about the ignition system in the manual and follow the trouble shooting guide. Don't jump to any conclusions without testing the individual parts first.
 

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... Looking at your battery, I would agree that your R/R malfunctioned, but I don't think the problem is with your coils.
I agree with RMAN. Very likely the Regulator/Rectifier (R/R) failed in high voltage mode. That would have cooked the battery, softened the plastic and caused it to bulge out. By the looks of it, it appears it contracted and sucked back in when it cooled.

Also very likely the ignitor fried due to over voltage. We have seen that many times on the forum. Should be able to find one on eBay for about $100, although the gen1 (2002 and earlier) ignitors are getting harder to find lately...

But, check the easy/cheap stuff first as RMAN said. Definitely do NOT reinstall a stock SV R/R as they are faulty by design. Good luck.
 

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If you can find another owner of a 1genSV in your area who is willing to let you swap in their working ignitor unit to test for spark, be sure to disconnect the R/R completely before testing. You don't want to ruin your new battery or the other ignitor. You just want to be able to spin the motor and see if you have spark, the engine doesn't have to start. You don't need the R/R to start the engine, the battery is used initially to start. Charge up the new battery before testing. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I managed to PM and purchase a CDI from one of the forum members here, woohoo.

Looks like I've found a replacement regulator, too:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/A-2004-03-0...Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c2b090c62&vxp=mtr

I pulled out my CDI and R/R and will test both tomorrow at work.

Looks can be deceiving, particularly for electronics - but the pristine condition of this R/R kind of pisses me off:



To my surprise/dismay, it's not an OEM R/R nor is it one of the D'Ecosse recommended models.

There's a sticker on the back with what I believe to be the model number: S1002U-2829

There are a handful of "S 1002" R/Rs that look the same on eBay, and there's even webstore a store with one: http://www.motorcityreman.com/s1rereas.html
 

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I'm curious to know if you ever figured out what was causing this? I'm actually picking up a bike that has very similar symptoms.
 

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I frigging hate the R/R problems. I might need new battery or oil for cold weather to get mine to start again.
 
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