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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, need some help here. Replaced the battery and ignition switch and now the bike has no power. Main fuse pops every time I turn the ignition to ON or PARK. The battery reads 12.6V. Voltmeter shows I have voltage at the 10 amp meter fuse, 30amp main fuse, and the red wire at the ignition switch and R/R. The bike does have some jank wiring in the front headlight area as well as the tail from the previous owner, but I have already wrapped everything and can't see any exposed wires. Ignition switch I just installed is from eBay so its definitely a possibility I received a defective part. I dont have the old ignition switch anymore so I cant test with that. I'm a novice when it comes to electrical stuff, so any insight would be very helpful.
 

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Main fuse pops every time I turn the ignition to ON or PARK.
A short to ground on the license plate Brown wire in the tail section can cause that.

As a quick test, 1) put the ignition switch in PARK position (this will connect only Red to Brown), 2) with the ignition still in PARK, replace the 30A main fuse. If the 30A immediately blows again, that confirms a short on Brown.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
A short to ground on the license plate Brown wire in the tail section can cause that.

As a quick test, 1) put the ignition switch in PARK position (this will connect only Red to Brown), 2) with the ignition still in PARK, replace the 30A main fuse. If the 30A immediately blows again, that confirms a short on Brown.
Yes I have already done this and it blew the main fuse immediately. So sounds like I need to do some more thorough investigating to find where the brown wire is shorting. I’ll let you know what I find, thanks.
 

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(y)

The SV650 gen1 ignition switch makes these connections. As a double-check to be sure the new switch itself is good try ohm out the various connections. Note when in "PARK" the only connections should be Red to Brown.
57697


It is not good that a short on the license plate wire (Brown) will blow the main fuse - it should be on a sub-fuse circuit - but that is how Suzuki designed it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
(y)

The SV650 gen1 ignition switch makes these connections. As a double-check to be sure the new switch itself is good try ohm out the various connections. Note when in "PARK" the only connections should be Red to Brown.
View attachment 57697

It is not good that a short on the license plate wire (Brown) will blow the main fuse - it should be on a sub-fuse circuit - but that is how Suzuki designed it.
Little update, I found the brown wire in the front sub-harness was making contact with the black w white tracer wire. The main fuse doesn’t blow in PARK anymore, but it still does pop as soon as I turn the key to the ON position. I have a voltmeter, but idk how to measure ohms from the ignition switch. Slight progress is better than no progress though!
 

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... but idk how to measure ohms from the ignition switch. Slight progress is better than no progress though!
Search YouTube for "Multimeter Basics" you will find many good videos on how to use your meter. It is not hard.

If the bike blows the main fuse when the ignition is switched to ON likely there is a short to ground on RED.

What is the history of this bike? Is it new to you? It is unusual to have multiple shorts like this unless something odd is going on or if the bike has been molested.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Search YouTube for "Multimeter Basics" you will find many good videos on how to use your meter. It is not hard.

If the bike blows the main fuse when the ignition is switched to ON likely there is a short to ground on RED.

What is the history of this bike? Is it new to you? It is unusual to have multiple shorts like this unless something odd is going on or if the bike has been molested.
I have voltage on RED everywhere I should: green plug for ignition switch, R/R, starter relay, etc. I just measured the resistance of the ignition switch and I have nothing, no reading at all. I’m gonna go ahead and order an OEM ignition switch. I bought the bike pretty cheap not too long ago and the previous owner installed a trailtech vapor and some aftermarket license plate lights. Bike has about 20k miles and I have ridden probably a total of 50 miles so far. After I sort out this electrical problem I need to replace the fuel petcock and the chain and sprockets and it should be good to go for awhile. Thank you for all the help, Tee!
 

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Sorry, I misspoke.
"If the bike blows the main fuse when the ignition is switched to ON likely there is a short to ground on RED."

I meant a short to ground on the ORANGE wire, not RED. Red goes to the ignition switch, Orange comes from the ignition switch.


A different ignition switch may not solve the problem but OEM is better than aftermarket in any case.

Good luck. Please let us know how you make out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Sorry, I misspoke.
"If the bike blows the main fuse when the ignition is switched to ON likely there is a short to ground on RED."

I meant a short to ground on the ORANGE wire, not RED. Red goes to the ignition switch, Orange comes from the ignition switch.



A different ignition switch may not solve the problem but OEM is better than aftermarket in any case.

Good luck. Please let us know how you make out.
Ahh okay I see. I just tested again and I’m not getting voltage at the orange wire coming off the ignition switch. I’m also not getting any resistance from the ignition switch either, so I’m pretty confident the ignition switch is my problem. I’ll update this thread when I have the new part on the bike.
 

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Yeah, sounds like the switch is bad. Is it still blowing the main fuse when turned to On?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yeah, sounds like the switch is bad. Is it still blowing the main fuse when turned to On?
Sorry for the late reply, I finally received the new ignition switch. It’s no longer blowing the fuse and everything seems to work! And yes, the main fuse was still blowing with the old ignition switch, but thankfully it’s all working now.
 

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Glad you got it working. (y)
 
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