Suzuki SV650 Riders Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So iv got a 2000 SV650 s with a strange clutch issue.
If i set the adjusting bolt against the push rod as stated in the manual and everywhere (screw in till you feel pressure then wind back 1/4 turn) the wheel keeps drive with the clutch pulled in and stalls when put into gear. So i have to tighten the bolt in against the push rod quite a bit to stop this issue and make it ridable and tighten it even more so i can engage neutral while the engine is running.
It has full set of new clutch plates plus new oil at the correct level (halfway between the hi/low lines after running 2 minutes).
Iv been out and done 30 miles of test rides now and it feels perfect with smooth changes but im wondering why this strange issue with having to over tighten the adjuster and is it causing any damage ?
I bought this bike as a barn find and its not moved for 6 years so iv no idea what it was like before.
Iv measured my clutch plates against the size stated in the manual and they're the correct thickness.
Im happy with the bikes performance now but im just curious as to this issue and any long term damage it may be causing
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Its nothing to do with clutch cable tension which is all set as it should be. Its the adjuster bolt has to tighten up against the push rod otherwise it doesn't engage properly. Iv fitted a new worm drive as the previous one had 5 barings missing but it was the same before anyway. Iv been messing with various set ups for weeks now and having extra pressure against the push rod is the only way to make it work as it should and actually use the bike. Its not bothering me now because i can finally ride it but just curious why its this way and if it could be damaging anything at all
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
the pushrod disengages the clutch pack. your riding around with the clutch pulled in. you, will burn the plates.imo
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
905 Posts
FWIW, I understand the issue. I've seen a lot of misadjusted cables which is why I mentioned it.

The bearing and thrust washer behind the pressure plate might be damaged by the constant load. It would be the equivalent of driving a car with the clutch pedal pushed in far enough for the throwout bearing to be constantly spinning.

Definitely a weird one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
the pushrod disengages the clutch pack. your riding around with the clutch pulled in. you, will burn the plates.imo
But if its not pushed in, then the clutch doesn't engage. Its weird and its bugging me but if its set up as it should be then the gearbox doesn't work. I'll inspect the plates in a few days and see what they're like and maybe take it to a garage because im getting sick of it really
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
in the video, from1:35 to 1:50 he talks about the rod adjustment. if you loosen the locknut and back the screw off until it's loose then the clutch is fully engaged.the actuator arm should be at between 2 and 3 oclock.to adjust the rod you lightly screw in the rod until light pressure is felt, your up against the pressure plate. then back off 1/4 turn to give it some freeplay. then adjust the cable at the handlebar and the actuator lever.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I know all this and this is the issue. Iv done everything right and when its adjusted as it should be it doesn't work. The gearbox will only work as it should with smooth gear changes, staying still while in gear with the clutch pulled in and also being able to select neutral, it will only do this if that screw is turned way in against the pushrod. If its set as it should be it stalls when you put it into gear, if its tightened in a bit it doesnt stall but then the rear wheel keeps drive stalls if you apply the rear brake. And to get it to work properly and also be able to select neutral while the engine is running, then the screw has to be in even more. Its not in really tight, probably 3 turns in once you feel pressure on the rod.
It seems fine, iv done 30 miles in one go and its maintained function and doesn't seem to smell like its burning or feel any hotter than the rest of the engine either.
I did notice when i fitted the new clutch plates that there wasn't much movement in the clutch basket when pulling in the clutch. The spring bolts on the pressure plate aren't over tightened either.
Im a car mechanic and this is the 4th big bike so believe me when i say iv been through it all thoroughly and set everything as it should. Iv always been very involved with my bikes and do everything myself but this is one i can't work out
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
335 Posts
If I remember correctly the gen1's have to have the cable lined up a certain way at the little throw out bearing. Someone on the UK SV board used to sell the alignment tool. That might be your issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
522 Posts
I just changed my clutch cable and noticed the same issue with the rear wheel off the ground and freeplay set to 1/4 turn out. I then tightened it to less than 1/8 turn, so barely out from the point of resistance and that did the trick.
My clutch now engages very late, which I love, as I only have to move the clutch lever a very short distance to disengage the clutch to shift fast and smooth. Also, there's zero clunk when shifting into first from neutral. I haven't noticed any clutch slippage when giving it the beans.
So in conclusion, the 1/4 turn is not set in stone. As long as the clutch mechanism has a tiny bit of space to the push rod when disengaged, I'd leave it as is.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
If I remember correctly the gen1's have to have the cable lined up a certain way at the little throw out bearing. Someone on the UK SV board used to sell the alignment tool. That might be your issue.
So iv got a 2000 SV650 s with a strange clutch issue.
If i set the adjusting bolt against the push rod as stated in the manual and everywhere (screw in till you feel pressure then wind back 1/4 turn) the wheel keeps drive with the clutch pulled in and stalls when put into gear. So i have to tighten the bolt in against the push rod quite a bit to stop this issue and make it ridable and tighten it even more so i can engage neutral while the engine is running.
It has full set of new clutch plates plus new oil at the correct level (halfway between the hi/low lines after running 2 minutes).
Iv been out and done 30 miles of test rides now and it feels perfect with smooth changes but im wondering why this strange issue with having to over tighten the adjuster and is it causing any damage ?
I bought this bike as a barn find and its not moved for 6 years so iv no idea what it was like before.
Iv measured my clutch plates against the size stated in the manual and they're the correct thickness.
Im happy with the bikes performance now but im just curious as to this issue and any long term damage it may be causing

I’ve had the same problem. Went through adjustment twice. I don’t use “the manual” because I have been adjusting clutches that work the same way since 1977, sorry. The SV, when I initially bought it (used), had the same problem. Mine is a 2001. Only after removing, inspecting, and reinstalling the OEM clutch plates twice and readjusting the clutch for the third time did the problem finally cease. In my case I think the clutch plates were not seated quite right in the basket, and there actuator at the end of the push rue was inadequate lubricated.

I have driven the bike thousands of hard miles since working it out and have no further problems and the bike will launch hard.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top