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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
on connections on these SV's than the green connector. Lost my low beams this morning and traced it to this after I got home tonight, after pulling the front end off.

Lost both lows at the same time at 5:30am pulling down the driveway, glad it didn't happen after I got on the road and/or taking a turn in the dark. Everything else worked, even the high beams, so I knew I could isolate this issue pretty quickly. Just not sure if I want to try to take the pin out and clean it up or order another connector and set another pin clip on., as the inside clip holder for the pin is melted a bit.






It even looks like they didn't plug is correctly from the factory and bent the female pin, if you look closely.
 

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first off if you put the object closer than the min focal distance of the camera nobody will be able to see what you are trying to show.

but you should be able to pull the wire with metal connector out of the plastic connector and replace the terminal.
Or as a temp fix pull both out and jump them around the connector until you get replacement parts

but you were good enough to diagnose a wiring problem so I expect you should have no problem fixing it from here

cheers
 

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Did someone substitute a higher wattage bulb/s in there for you? Probably a good thing to check, as that shouldn't happen....with 55W bulbs. But there are those 80's and 100's floating around that seem like SUCH a good idea!:)

To really prevent this from happening, these folks have the answer. http://www.easternbeaver.com/ The relay kits are the schnitz.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ahhhhhh yeah! Now I recall. When I got the bike, it had the 90/100w blue in there. I replaced them just days after I got the bike. You think the damage was already done by then? (749 miles on the clock when received) I have never noticed them dim down, flicker or go out when riding in the dark, and most of my rides involve early morning commute times.
 

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Throttlebody, consider yourself lucky! You were not doing 80 in heavy traffic when your lights went out. Yes, the higher wattage bulb did the damage. Approaching twice the current draw the circuit is built to handle continuously. V Stroms have a similar issue. The Easter Beaver relay kit mentioned above is a really good thing to do for these bikes. You WILL be surprised at how much brighter a standard headlight is after installing the Easter Beaver relay kit!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah, it doesn't seem as though the pins were rated for the draw. I know the wire is rated to handle the amperage and voltage; such a cheesy little pin to use to cut costs though.

I have been wanting for some time now to bypass the lights from the wiring of the green connector to take the load off of it, but haven't really had the time this year with my awesome flexible shifts and taking a week a month vacation trips for the past 7 months, trying to make up for decades without down time, excluding hitting that deer last year.....lol. I am definitely going to check out the link since they make a kit that may be easier to install instead of drawing one out myself.

I am kinda sad that I have missed out on the past two days to enjoy my commute. :mad:

A serious thank you guys, for the input.

Sent from my right shoe phone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Temp fix done until I can read up more on those relays. It looks as though they use the existing left hand control switches to send the existing 12volts to signal the relays for switching between dim/bright.
 

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Temp fix done until I can read up more on those relays. It looks as though they use the existing left hand control switches to send the existing 12volts to signal the relays for switching between dim/bright.
Pretty much. You run large-ass wire from the battery to the relays, then use the stock switch gear to activate them. Only a fraction of an amp draw on the Suzuki wiring! Should handle that just fine.:) And I measured over a volt higher at the headlights with the relays vs the stock wiring. Kind of surprised they cheated so much on the lighting circuits...and hoping the rest of the engineering team wasn't thinking along the same lines as the light guys.

I installed the kit with low beam shut-off so I can kill the lights if desired. I think they offer one that will kill both high and low beams, but it is more simple just doing the low's and remembering not to turn on the high's if you want the lights off.

It is nice to be able to shut off the headlamps in the event of a charging malfunction. Eliminating that draw should let you ride quite a few extra miles before the battery dies. Might save some pushing in the future!:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That's the one I thought would really come in the most handy. Thanks RR!

Sent from my right shoe phone.
 
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