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Discussion Starter #1
Hello
I got a little problem with my sv 650n (2000 year). First some links to photo of my carburators etc.







Does someone know how power was blocked in sv with these yers of production ?? During dissection I did not notice any , orifice, blockades of throttle itd. Some ideas?

My english sucks, sorry for that :(
 

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I'm guessing that you're not in the USA. Maybe posting your country will help. There are a lot of UK folks at sv650.org who may be able to help too (most of the members on svrider.com are US based).
 

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Yes, I am not from usa. And coming back to problem I tried to find out something on Polish forum , but nobody knows what it can be this reason. I thought that someone can had similar problem and it will help.Nothing,I will tried on some European forum.
 

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Is it malfunction or do you have one of those to 27kw restricted euro models?
 

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Dont know, hope so that it isn't malfunction. Carbs are in a good condition, told me in suzuki in my city, they made synchronization and everything should be good,they said, but it wasnt:( I find somethig about how to de-restrict sv mk1 on sv650.org :) Toomorow after work im going to garage and we will see;)
 

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Just make sure that the sea foam underneath the tank is still all the way glued to the underside of the tank.

Mine did sputter at 8k rpm`s because the carbs sucked the middle of sea foam into the air box opening.
 

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Borrowed from this thread http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=62081&highlight=remove+restrictor at sv650.org

I am going to best explain how i have de-restricted my bike which was fitted with a genuine Suzuki restriction kit.

WARNING - This is only for people that hold an unrestricted licence, if not you will be breaking the law.

Also this has been done to the best of my knowledge, whatever you do to your bike is your responsibility and if you are in any doubt with these instructions do not carry out the procedure.
PS. To the gurus, if there is any gaping problems with this please tell me so i can ammend the instructions.

Step 1 - Airbox removal
Remove front seat, remove two bolts at the headstock that hold the fuel tank down, prop tank up with tool provided under rear seat, exposing the air box.


Dissconnect both breather pipes from the air box, use long nose pliers to move the clips. With a firm tug of the air box, this should free the box exposing the carb below.


Step 2 - Fuel Feed & Throttle Position Sensor Disconnect & Idle Cable
I found that it was easier to remove various Fuel/Sensors/Idle Cables, so that access to the carb covers is easier. The idle adjust knob has to be uncliped from its holder on the left side of the bike.
Disconnect Fuel Feed


Disconnect Throttle Position Sensor


Step 3 - Slacken intake duct clamps / Carb removal
To gain easy access to the front & rear carb covers we need to remove the carbs from the engine intake ducts.
Rear carb - Between engine & Carb

Front carb - Between engine & Carb, Radiator needs to be moved to access clamp.


Once both the intake duct clamps have been slackened then pull the carbs up by the gold side bars and move to side.


Step 4 - (Optional) Front carb choke removal
To ease access to front carb cover i decided to remove the front carb choke plunger.


Step 5a - Part 1 of Removal of restriction kit
This section is the same for the front and rear carbs.
Be very carefull not to let any of the spring fly off in this section
Remove the two screws holding the black cover on the carbs.



On removal of the carb cover you will see the diaphragm & piston assembly, remove this carefully so not to damage.



Step 5b - Part 2 of Removal of restriction kit
Remove the Jet needle from the piston, as you look into the end of the diaphragm & piston assembly you should see a small grey retainer. Using a long nose pliers, pull and remove. (Becarefull because there is a very small spring and washer that will come out.

What the Jet needle set should look like.


Remove the diaphragm from the plastic piston, very carefully so not to damage. As you can see in the picture of the pistons without the diaphragms, the one on the top is the restrictor (with the small hole at the base) the bottom one is the original one which will give you full power.



Step 5c - Fit original kit
Put diaphragm onto original piston, noting that the diaphragm has to be the correct way arround or it will not seat into the carb correctly.
Re-assemble the Jet needle as it was removed, needle first with washer on the top then spring then retainer.

Place the assembled unit back into the carb. Note that the needle has to be aliged with the small hole on the other side of the carb inlet.


Once in place place the carb cover in place, becarefull to make sure it seats properly with the diaphragm, screw cover back on.

Step 6 - Put carb back onto engine
Follow in order Step 4 to Step 1, reversing all actions to reatach carbs to engine. Fit air box and make sure that all the breather pipes are attached correctly.


Hope fully this is usefull to people and is understandable.[/b]
 

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Hey there. I've got the exact same problem. in goes up to 7k rpm, in 5th, and up to 8 in 3rd gear. I've checked my valve pistons, and they are the restrictors.

If you says yours are not the restrictors try this: take them out, and after that turn the throttle and with a flashlight take a look inside the intake. if you can spot sa plate, washer, anything that can block the way, then take that out and you sholud be fine :).
If you can't spot anything in there, then I don't know :|
Good luck.
 
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