[scknight]

Ok, I'm getting ready to do the 600 mile service on my 05 sv650 and I had a couple questions. First in regards to torquing all the nuts/bolts. I already downloaded the service manual so I have all the numbers to torque the bolts to. My question is should I loosen the nuts/bolt first before torquing it to the spec? If I loosen it do I need to put any loctite or anything on it? Or is it good enough to just loosen a bit and re-torque.

Second when adjusting the chain I think I remember reading to adjust while it's on it's side stand rather than a rear stand. Is that true? If so what is the reasoning behind this? Also do most hardware stores have a cotter pin that fits the rear axel?

Also I was thinking about maybe trying to synch the throttle valves, where could I get one of those tubes with mercury in the middle to help sync them, or is that tool expensive?

Last question is kind of a more general question when inspecting the throttle and clutch cables what am I looking for?

Thanks!

 

[Guest]

You don't need to loosen the fasteners prior to retorquing. Just bring the torque up to the specified value and you're set. If you don't already have torque tools, Sears sells reasonably priced beam-type torque wrenches.

Most bikes measure the chain tension spec on the side stand because it's the most convenient way. The SV doesn't have a centerstand, but if it did the chain tension would be different because you would be taking the weight off the rear wheel. If you want to check your SV's chain on a rear stand, set the chain tension when it's on the side stand, then lift the bike and see if the number has changed and use that measurement (if different) as your new spec.

You can get a replacement cotter pin at any hardware or auto store. Consider replacing the cotter pin with a "hair pin". It's more convenient since it's reusable (cotter pins aren't, although everyone does).

You can get carb sychronizers from Motion Pro, sold through your dealer or Dennis Kirk, Whitehorse Press, Chapparal or about a million others. Before you spend the money, take a look at this:

][url]http://forum.svrider.com/index.php?topic=45406.0[/url]

I haven't built one yet, but it should work better than the commericial ones and has the advantage of not using mercury, which is a PITA to deal with from a hazmat perspective. Certainly nothing you want lying around the house if you can avoid it.

On the cables, your primary concern is that they are correctly tensioned. Beyond that you want to make sure that they move freely, are adequately lubed and are properly routed (not pinching or wearing anywhere). If you really want to get into detail, break out the flashlight and magnifying glass and inspect the exposed portion of the cables for fraying or broken wires, particullarly aroung the barrel fittings on each end.

 

[Guest]

You don't need to loosen the fasteners prior to retorquing. Just bring the torque up to the specified value and you're set.

Uh, no. The torque required to overcome the stiction of a fastener that's been in place for any length of time is much higher than the stated torque value for that fastener. To torque them properly, they should be "broken loose" first then re-torqued.

 

[jason777]

Guys,
I just started riding and dont know much, but my experienced friend said not to bother doing anything other than lubricating the chain and changing the oil. So thats all we did. I have 1100 miles on it. He said he never does that kind of maintenance on his bike. Is he wrong?

Also, where can I download the service manual?

 

[Guest]

Is your friend warrantying your bike?

 

[scknight]

Also, where can I download the service manual?

http://www.sv650.org/sv_manuals.htm

 

[scknight]

Uh, no. The torque required to overcome the stiction of a fastener that's been in place for any length of time is much higher than the stated torque value for that fastener. To torque them properly, they should be "broken loose" first then re-torqued.

So does a third party want to chime in here with an opinion? Honstly I'll probaly just loosen them, because it won't do any harm, just take more time. I was more curious if when loosening or taking a bolt off if any sorta of loctite or something should be used when re-installing.

 

[RandyO]

Guys,
I just started riding and dont know much, but my experienced friend said not to bother doing anything other than lubricating the chain and changing the oil.  So thats all we did. I have 1100 miles on it.  He said he never does that kind of maintenance on his bike.  Is he wrong?

Also, where can I download the service manual?

If you don't ride more than 3000-4000 miles a year AND buy a new bike every year, then you don't have to do maintenance, if you ride it, you have to maintain it.

 

[Zanetti]

So does a third party want to chime in here with an opinion? Honstly I'll probaly just loosen them, because it won't do any harm, just take more time. I was more curious if when loosening or taking a bolt off if any sorta of loctite or something should be used when re-installing.

If you're just checking to make sure the fasteners aren't loose, hitting each one with a torque wrench will be fine. Critical torques, like a situation where too tight is just as bad as too loose, require loosening then torquing to spec. A bit of blue locktite on clean, dry threads can't hurt.

 

[ridesideways]

So does a third party want to chime in here with an opinion? Honstly I'll probaly just loosen them, because it won't do any harm, just take more time. I was more curious if when loosening or taking a bolt off if any sorta of loctite or something should be used when re-installing.

i wouldn't loosen them, because if you loosen them, then you'll break the factory loctite threadlocking compound. once you loosen them and break the threadlocker, then you must re-apply threadlocker. i don't think this is what suzuki had in mind when they instruct owners to recheck the fasteners.

 

[Guest]

A quick perusal of the factory service manual for my 1st gen doesn't show a requirement for Thread Lock "1342" on any of the engine mount bolts, swing arm/rear suspension or fork/triple tree assemblies. It is called for on the fork oil drain bolts though.

 

[Guest]

Beating a dead horse here (yet again!):

Suzuki Service Manual, p/n 99500-36091-03E, pg,2-27

"Tighten the exhaust pipe bolts, nuts and muffler mounting bolts to the specified torque (3-16)."

"Check that all chassis bolts and nuts are tightened to their specified torque..."

There's thirty separate items listed in the table, many of which have multiple applications (i.e. brake rotor bolts, 5 per rotor x 3 rotors = 15 bolts); probably about a hundred separate bolts if you include any disassembly that may be required.

As I said before, I would just check the torque on them. There's certainly no harm in loosening or removing each fastener, cleaning it and reapplying any specified threadlocker, but it sure seems like overkill to me. I doubt that's the way the any dealer's service department does it; perhaps you could call your local shop and ask them?

 

[Guest]

Beating a dead horse here (yet again!):

The gentleman asked. I gave him my opinion based on 40-odd years of foolin' with these things as a service tech, rider, racer and builder.. You can do it right, or you can do it the easy way. Whatever floats yer boat bubba...

Over and out.

 

[jason777]

If you don't ride more than 3000-4000 miles a year AND buy a new bike every year, then you don't have to do maintenance, if you ride it, you have to maintain it.

Huh, which makes sense cause this guy has gone through 8 bikes in 5 years. Well, I guess I'll read the service manual and try to figure this out myself. I'm not paying to have this done.
I wonder what would happen if you dont maintain the bike correctly?

 

[Six Chin Skinny]

Beating a dead horse here (yet again!):

Couldn't resist... I have nothing of value to add. Please proceed....