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Discussion Starter · #1 ·


Stage 0: 65.1 HP @ 9000 RPM, 41.1 ft-lbs, 14:1. Renegade slip-on exhaust, 15 pilot jets, 137.5 main jets, 1 shim on needle.

Stage 1: 69.9 HP @ 9300 RPM, 42.75 ft-lbs, 15:1. M4 full exhaust, 17.5 pilot jets, 152.5 main jets, 2 shims on needle, desnorkled airbox.

Stage 2: 76.6 HP @ 9700 RPM, 44.88 ft-lbs, 12:1. Cam swap, M4 full exhaust, 17.5 pilot jets, 157.5 main jets, 2 shims on needle, desnorkled airbox.

The Dynojet(tm) dyno confirms what my Butt(tm) dyno has already observed: the 03 cam swap ROCKS!!!! The bike just friggin' pulls so much stronger, and deeper into the powerband.

Current A/F plot:



At 12:1, it's a bit on the rich side now. My tuner thinks going down a size to 155 mains should get me in the ideal 13:1 range, as well as buy me a couple HP up top. (But what about the 5-7k range? It is most rich here, almost getting down to 11:1, and also where the power dips a bit. Should I go back to 1 shim on the needle?) If what he says is true, I should be topping 78 HP. Needless to say, I will be quite ecstatic.
 

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wow.
just, wow.
friggen awesome comparison of mods there with your dyno runs.
awesome power increase there.
thats gotta be even more fun to ride now.
big up to you!
 

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Dave, did you drill your slide holes? I'm kinda surprised, actually, with your Stage 2 results. I had the same mods, but also the drilled slide holes (shouldn't have made that big of a difference), and pulled 72.3 hp and 45.9 lb/ft!

Granted, I'll need to run it again after doing the cam swap this winter (and with the Renegades :D), but I guess I just got a good example of the 2000 SV.
 

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Yeah, the top end the cam swap offers is AWESOME.... I really want to try mine with the M4 some time. I may try and find one buggered up for track riding....
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
orangegilly: no, haven't drilled the slide holes (yet). As you indicate, I doubt they would make THAT big of a difference. But since I'm gonna need to open up the carbs again to pop in the 155s, I might as well drill the holes while I'm there.

I'm in agreement, though...after seeing your earlier posted numbers, I was *slightly* disappointed with my Stage I results. But then, I try not to worry to much about bike-to-bike dyno comparisons either. Bikes can vary SO much, even just coming off the assembly line. Not to mention differences in dynos, ambient temperature/humidity, etc. And keep in mind, my bike dynoed stock at just over 65, which seems slightly low to me.

I'm actually more perplexed by the A/F numbers. My Stage I configuration is a tried-and-tested setup that many of you have, and yet my a/f was fluctuating between 14:1 and 16:1. That's what prompted the move to 157.5s, but now I'm a bit rich at 12:1. I wonder if 155s would be sufficient to bring it back up to 13:1? To make matters worse, the O2 sensor on my tuner's dyno crapped out last week, and he *just* replaced it prior to my Stage II run, which leads me to wonder if all the previous a/f reading were incorrect, and perhaps the 152.5s would have been ideal after all!? Grrrr.....

nicksvs: I got the cams brand new on Ebay from someone who purchased them but ended up not putting them in. Really, though, I only saved maybe $20 off the price I would have paid at RonAyers.com. These things offer so much bang for the buck, there is hardly any reason NOT to do this mod if you have moderate mechanical aptitude!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
nicksvs said:
did you swap out 03 exhaust and 03 intake cams or use 03 intake cams and 99-02 intake cams?
The latter.

Moved existing 01 intake cams to exhaust side, put in 03 intake cams in intake side.
 

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I'd recommend dropping a shim off the needles and go and get another O2 reading. The rich running in the mid-range is systemic of needles needing to be lowered. Have you considered going with an aftermarket filter? That will flow more air and should give you a couple more ponies with your current setup (since it's slightly rich up top). Worth considering.
 
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